Modifying Wi Fi module on Plus model

[DavidW63]

Some of you may have read my post from other that that I lost my Phantom 2 Vision in the lake. Well anyhow. I found a Plus model (2.0V) lightly used never crashed for a very good price. I bought it. I should get it in a bout a week or so.

I have a feeling that it will have the "old style" wi fi module without the vent holes. Has anyone tryed if it can be done, to remove the module from its metal case and drill several vent holes in it then put back together? I know there was other ways to correct overheat problem, but the vent holes would make more sense if it can be done. When i get my drone, Im going to pull the module out if its the old style and try to add vent holes before I fly it.

I do have a P3P and the 2Vplus is going to replace my Vision I had that I was using with the REDbird repeater setup using 2 drones.

 

[J Dot]

Hello,
You can remove the board from the casing, you have to cut the copper tape ( you'll need new to replace after you slice it open )
Careful as casing is fragile, can bend easily. Also if your pulling it apart, add some Arctic silver thermal paste between ICU and casing ( DO NOT DRILL HOLES in triangular indent on casing! ) IMU SITS UNDER IT, and requires thermal paste to help transfer heat away from IMU. Good preventative maintenance, since you'll have it apart anyway to drill!

J Dot

 

[Mako79]

Don't drill it. The case is very soft and will warp. Also, the V3 module been drilled in a manner to decrease electromagnetic interference.

 

[DavidW63]

Hmmmm..... LOL.

 

[AzDroner]

I, and a friend, have both drilled our old style wifi cases, used arctic silver heat sink (youtube it), left off the copper tape, cut both ends off the case and left them open. I am now able to fly with my preview at 640 15, and my friend, who's wifi was in worse shape than mine to start with, can fly and get fpv at 320. All of these mods to the case seems to have caused no other problems at all.
On mine, I also made a 1/4 in hole in the drone body right in front of the wifi unit, and made a little air scoop around that hole to direct air flow thru the wifi. All good, but I did buy a new module as a spare just in case.

 

[RichWest]

You can drill the cover, but it's likely you'll mangle it in the process. Key is to back up the cover and allow the drill to cut through rather than by force, let the drill do the work with very light down pressure. It's a slow process. Once done flatten out your holes to the case. Don't forget to drill some vents on the bottom cover as well, air flow.... Just make sure you have back-up parts for when you screw up....

Copper tape does play part in bounding electrically the two halves. Further not all copper tape is created equal or rather the adhesive is not the same. True RF/EMI shielding tape will be "dead-soft" copper and the adhesive will be conductive, 3M is the noted brand for this type of material.

I don't prefer the thermal paste in this application, it was not designed to gap the distances where we are applying. Also it has the ability to migrate to where I don't want and is mildly conductive. I went with a thermal gap pad instead, basically a thermally conductive ceramic like the paste, but thicker viscosity that won't flow like the paste. Thermal data supports its application of a 0.5mm or less interface, thermal paste is more in the micron level for gap distance.

To date and with the above mods, my bird provides full FPV resolution. I did supplement with a heat sink in the "diamond" recess of the case. Its added benefit, other than the obvious, was that the bird's cover would apply enough pressure onto the HS to improve the mechanical bound between the thermal components of the module.

Good luck!

 

[DavidW63]

I, and a friend, have both drilled our old style wifi cases, used arctic silver heat sink (youtube it), left off the copper tape, cut both ends off the case and left them open. I am now able to fly with my preview at 640 15, and my friend, who's wifi was in worse shape than mine to start with, can fly and get fpv at 320. All of these mods to the case seems to have caused no other problems at all.
On mine, I also made a 1/4 in hole in the drone body right in front of the wifi unit, and made a little air scoop around that hole to direct air flow thru the wifi. All good, but I did buy a new module as a spare just in case.

What is the purpose of the copper tape if it still works after being removed? Was it just to keep dust out? Can both halves of the case be "bonded" together using copper wire? maybie has something to do with grounding.

 

[AzDroner]

What is the purpose of the copper tape if it still works after being removed? Was it just to keep dust out? Can both halves of the case be "bonded" together using copper wire? maybie has something to do with grounding.

I wouldn't worry about "bonding". The 2 halves are in contact with each other and that seems to be plenty of bonding. No problems without the tape that 2 of us have observed anyhow.

 

[MapMaker53]

If there's no reason to use the copper tape, do you really think a manufacturer would spend the extra money to use copper tape on millions of units? Personally, I wouldn't risk my $1000 Phantom just to avoid reapplying the copper tape.

 

[Bigmantony]

All manufacturers have to comply with FCC regulations which has interference limits on transmitting device staying within there specs. Most of these requirements the end user never see the different.

 

[Brian.Rodney]

I, and a friend, have both drilled our old style wifi cases, used arctic silver heat sink (youtube it), left off the copper tape, cut both ends off the case and left them open. I am now able to fly with my preview at 640 15, and my friend, who's wifi was in worse shape than mine to start with, can fly and get fpv at 320. All of these mods to the case seems to have caused no other problems at all.
On mine, I also made a 1/4 in hole in the drone body right in front of the wifi unit, and made a little air scoop around that hole to direct air flow thru the wifi. All good, but I did buy a new module as a spare just in case.

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