Making my phantom 3 standard more crash resistant and efficient.

Thank you! Still have the problem of the range being terrible, since the crash. Any ideas?

Need more info. The more specific you can be, the specific my suggestions will be.

For the information you provided above, I would recommend you upgrade to P3 Advanced or Professional. You can easily get 8000 feet out of box without doing anything special.
 
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Need more info. The more specific you can be, the specific my suggestions will be.

For the information you provided above, I would recommend you upgrade to P3 Advanced or Professional. You can easily get 8000 feet out of box without doing anything special.

Alright my drone normally goes about 1,200 feet and then starts to lose connection, yesterday I was flying and got in the middle of a small tree, I was cutting limbs then my dogs were barking at the drone so I made it go forward and of coarse it flipped over on its back and fell to the ground, during this crash an anti drop pin was knocked out and I lost one of the white shock absorbers, I will have to fix the gimbal as it was knocked out of alignment.. Back to its distance problem it will not go over half the distance it was today somehow I got it too 600 feet out and I don't know how to fix it
 
1. Did you fly same course? Same starting location, same height, same destination, etc?
2. Did you re-do the IMU calibration? (this should be done after every crash & firmware update)
3. Did you redo your compass calibration?
4. Did you visually inspect that your antennas on the birds are "unharm"?
5. Check you didn't inadvertantly switch over to CE mode (not likely, but no harm in checking)
6. Are you using all same equipment (tablet, phone, etc)?
7. How many times have you test it? Once? or repeatable at 600 feet?
8. Are you losing the video or the RC control at 600 feet? At 600 feet out, did the drone automatically initiate the RTH?
9. How did you "know" you are losing control at 600 feet and how did you regain it?

Let's start with those. Once I have your answer I'll have a better idea what's going on.
 
1. Did you fly same course? Same height, same destination, etc?
2. Did you re-do the IMU calibration? (this should be done after every crash & firmware update)
3. Did you redo your compass calibration?
4. Did you visually inspect that your antennas on the birds are "unharm"?
5. Check you didn't inadvertantly switch over to CE mode (not likely, but no harm in checking)
6. Are you using all same equipment (tablet, phone, etc)?
7. How many times have you test it? Once? or repeatable at 600 feet?
8. Are you losing the video or the RC control at 600 feet? At 600 feet out, did the drone automatically initiate the RTH?
9. How did you "know" you are losing control at 600 feet and how did you regain it?

Let's start with those. Once I have your answer I'll have a better idea what's going on.
1. No, will tomorrow
2. Yes
3. Yes
4. Maybe, where are they located
5. Can't do that on standard can you?
6. No, different propellers, I changed to zip ties and removed some wire holding a part together with another zip tie
7. 4, three times in one location then once in another same problem
8. Both RC and video cut out and began to return to home
9. The maximum distance I could go was 600 feet in other directions I got 400, I'm use to 1,200 feet, I regained it when it was ridiculous close and canceled return to home and continued testing. Some times the drone was right above me or feet away and the signal was cutting out.
 
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1. No, will tomorrow
2. Yes
3. Yes
4. Maybe, where are they located
5. Can't do that on standard can you?
6. No, different propellers, I changed to zip ties and removed some wire holding a part together with another zip tie
7. 4, three times in one location then once in another same problem
8. Both RC and video cut out and began to return to home
9. The maximum distance I could go was 600 feet in other directions I got 400, I'm use to 1,200 feet, I regained it when it was ridiculous close and canceled return to home and continued testing. Some times the drone was right above me or feet away and the signal was cutting out.

1. Environment impacts your reception. Tho if you are in general area shouldn't matter that much. Also not knowing exactly where you are flying, the direction you are flying could have interference where earlier when you were getting 1200 there weren't. I would start with optimal condition: Flat ground, no obstacle (building, tree, etc)

4. No idea where it is for P3 Standard. But it should be like P2V+ and P3P and P3A. So inspect the landing skid legs. You should see thin gray wire running alone the legs. Use a tweezer to gently tuck on those gray wire to see if they are secured. In P2V+ they are glue down good, so shouldn't come undone. I imagine it would be the same for P3S.

5. I know this can be done on the P2V+. Should be the same for P3S as these birds are sold world wide in both US and Europe. I imagine the same legal compliance are still there and therefore the switches are still there. Check your manual on how to do this.

7. If you are suddenly consistently getting 600 ft where you were getting 1200 ft, I think the most likely culprit is something got knock lose.

8. Your answer on this is still vague. So instead of having you describe to me what's going on, I'll tell you what to look for here. Your P3S is essentially a P2V+ with some minor upgrades, but majority of the components and technologies are the same. That means your drone operates on 2 frequencies: 2.4 GHz and 5.8 GHz. Your analog video links happens over the 2.4 GHz frequency. And your RC control happens over the 5.8 GHz frequency. That also means you have 2 sets of antennas: One for the 2.4 GHz and one for the 5.8 GHz. Antennas are tune for specific frequencies therefore you need 2 sets.

I asked you if you lose video first or RC first to determine which one of your link is the weaker link so that I can direct you to look for that antenna.

Your 2.4 GHz (VIDEO) link antenna on the bird should be a DIRECTIONAL panel antenna that's BUILD inside the bird. In the P2V+, this is simply "glue" on to the side (right and left) of the bird. I suspect this is the case with P3S as well. So look at the vent on LEFT side and RIGHT side of your drone and see if you see a green square panel that looks like this (picture below).
IMG_7736.JPG
And see if they are lose or if they are flush against the side of the vent. Interestingly enough, given this is a directional antenna, you get better video signal when either side of your bird is pointing directly at you (ie. flying side way toward or away from you).

If your RC signal is the one that's cutting out first (if you see video clear, but nothing you do on the stick makes the bird respond, then you have lost your RC signal first. Otherwise if you simply lose video signal, your RC signal might still be perfectly OK), then you would want to inspect those antenna running down the side of the landing legs. This is your 5.8 GHz antennas. These are Omni directional instead of directional like your video antenna.


9. See my respond above on definitively determining which control you lose first. It's unlikely you lose both at the same time. There are 3 possible scenario:

a. you consistently lose video first.
b. you consistently lose RC first.
c. you sometimes lose RC and sometimes lose video first.

C is the "best" scenario that means both antenna are of about same caliber, but I prefer scenario "b".
 
This is the spec for P3 Standard
Phantom 3 Standard - Specs, FAQ, manual, video tutorials and DJI GO | DJI

Be good to get familiar with it.

If you look under "Wi-Fi Video Link" section, you'll see the 2.400 GHz - 2.483 GHz. This is the same bandwidth pretty much ALL of our wifi router uses. That also means if you are flying in an area where there are lots of WiFI routers around, you are going to be getting pretty darn noisy signal interference. That's why I asked about the direction. Maybe some direction and location you have more WiFi routers then another.

You'll also notice FCC mode you can broadcast at 27 dBm whilc CE you only broadcast 20 dBm.


Now look under "Remote Controller", you'll see the operating frequency to be "5.725 Ghz - 5.825 Ghz". This is also the same 5.8GHz frequency that SOME of our wifi routers uses (not as popular). Again, you could run into interference if you fly over area where lots of people use this frequency for their wifi router (not likely, but possible).
 
1. Environment impacts your reception. Tho if you are in general area shouldn't matter that much. Also not knowing exactly where you are flying, the direction you are flying could have interference where earlier when you were getting 1200 there weren't. I would start with optimal condition: Flat ground, no obstacle (building, tree, etc)

4. No idea where it is for P3 Standard. But it should be like P2V+ and P3P and P3A. So inspect the landing skid legs. You should see thin gray wire running alone the legs. Use a tweezer to gently tuck on those gray wire to see if they are secured. In P2V+ they are glue down good, so shouldn't come undone. I imagine it would be the same for P3S.

5. I know this can be done on the P2V+. Should be the same for P3S as these birds are sold world wide in both US and Europe. I imagine the same legal compliance are still there and therefore the switches are still there. Check your manual on how to do this.

7. If you are suddenly consistently getting 600 ft where you were getting 1200 ft, I think the most likely culprit is something got knock lose.

8. Your answer on this is still vague. So instead of having you describe to me what's going on, I'll tell you what to look for here. Your P3S is essentially a P2V+ with some minor upgrades, but majority of the components and technologies are the same. That means your drone operates on 2 frequencies: 2.4 GHz and 5.8 GHz. Your analog video links happens over the 2.4 GHz frequency. And your RC control happens over the 5.8 GHz frequency. That also means you have 2 sets of antennas: One for the 2.4 GHz and one for the 5.8 GHz. Antennas are tune for specific frequencies therefore you need 2 sets.

I asked you if you lose video first or RC first to determine which one of your link is the weaker link so that I can direct you to look for that antenna.

Your 2.4 GHz (VIDEO) link antenna on the bird should be a DIRECTIONAL panel antenna that's BUILD inside the bird. In the P2V+, this is simply "glue" on to the side (right and left) of the bird. I suspect this is the case with P3S as well. So look at the vent on LEFT side and RIGHT side of your drone and see if you see a green square panel that looks like this (picture below).
View attachment 39398
And see if they are lose or if they are flush against the side of the vent. Interestingly enough, given this is a directional antenna, you get better video signal when either side of your bird is pointing directly at you (ie. flying side way toward or away from you).

If your RC signal is the one that's cutting out first (if you see video clear, but nothing you do on the stick makes the bird respond, then you have lost your RC signal first. Otherwise if you simply lose video signal, your RC signal might still be perfectly OK), then you would want to inspect those antenna running down the side of the landing legs. This is your 5.8 GHz antennas. These are Omni directional instead of directional like your video antenna.


9. See my respond above on definitively determining which control you lose first. It's unlikely you lose both at the same time. There are 3 possible scenario:

a. you consistently lose video first.
b. you consistently lose RC first.
c. you sometimes lose RC and sometimes lose video first.

C is the "best" scenario that means both antenna are of about same caliber, but I prefer scenario "b".

The RC is being lost first
Sides of my bird
ff998e78eb58af0c796941127f972efc.jpg
bca5190f13e0320b5271b7eea59550b9.jpg



Sent from my iPod touch using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
I don't think there is a way to change to FCC from CE and I was flying it in town with bad signal v.s. in the country with good signal but I wasn't getting as far as I usually am in town.
 
Take a picture from the back of your Phantom looking into the battery bay (without the battery), aim toward the side where the vent is.

On my old P2V+, that's where the antenna was located.
 
Take a picture from the back of your Phantom looking into the battery bay (without the battery), aim toward the side where the vent is.

On my old P2V+, that's where the antenna was located.
a70ff023c625c6add7b64311a16d5fc1.jpg
4611207809de5a54881c645a3f25a2f3.jpg



Sent from my iPod touch using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
On P2V+, that's where the video antenna is at. If you are losing RC first, then check the antenna down the side of the leg.

This is what your experience should be like if you are losing RC control:

Video clear or semi clear
drone not responding to your control
after 5 seconds, the app says the bird has initiated RTH
You see on FPV video your bird turn around and fly toward you.

You should experience all of the 4 above if you are losing RC signal first.


Antenna.jpg
 
On P2V+, that's where the video antenna is at. If you are losing RC first, then check the antenna down the side of the leg.

This is what your experience should be like if you are losing RC control:

Video clear or semi clear
drone not responding to your control
after 5 seconds, the app says the bird has initiated RTH
You see on FPV video your bird turn around and fly toward you.

You should experience all of the 4 above if you are losing RC signal first.


View attachment 39402
I am losing RC control first then video. What do I need to do?
 
Pretty sure that's your 2.4 GHz video directional panel antenna. You are losing RC signal at 600 ft where it used to go 1200 ft, so this isn't the culprit.

Antenna.jpg
 
I am losing RC control first then video. What do I need to do?
If you lose your RC signal, your bird would simply hover, so you shouldn't lose your video as well. If you are losing RC then video then something doesn't compute here.

When the bird loses RC signal, it "stops" where it loses signal. So your video should remain good. Assuming you are still in GPS mode. If you are in ATTI mode, the wind could be blowing it away.
 
Do I need to move it back into place?

You are not losing video signal first, so I wouldn't touch it (Unless you know it was not where it used to be). I don't have a P3 Standard so can't tell you where it should have been at. For all I know, this is where it should have been.
 
If you lose your RC signal, your bird would simply hover, so you shouldn't lose your video as well. If you are losing RC then video then something doesn't compute here.

When the bird loses RC signal, it "stops" where it loses signal. So your video should remain good. Assuming you are still in GPS mode. If you are in ATTI mode, the wind could be blowing it away.
Sorry I'm not being clear. I lose RC and I have it on return to home so it comes back and I regain control at that point, the video is cutting out but for short internals not my main concern I would like to fix the distance problem and I am in GPS mode.
 

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