Professional How to use Bondic on stress crack?

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OK then. Just discovered my first stress crack on my P3.
Hoping I wouldn't, but here we are.

Lots of you talk up this Bondic as a good solution. About to order it from Amazon - $21.95 for a starter kit
http://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG
What they say is :

THE BONDIC® PRINCIPLES
• Bondic® works best on rough surfaces and even better with undercuts
• Bondic® solidifies only by exposure to UV light (LED included)
• Bondic® works best in layers (the maximum thickness of one layer is 1- 1.5 mm)
• Bondic® works best when the surface is clean and free of grease
• Bondic® is solvent free, which is one reason why it doesn't dry out
• Bondic® is a liquid plastic welder that should be used with the principle of welding and not gluing

Obviously where it is I can't rough up the surface or use layers. How have you all effectively applied the Bondic to a crack like this??
P3-1st_stressCreack.jpg
 
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It has been a month.... anything to report?

I've used cyanoacrylate (super glue) with excellent success on the P2 for CRACKS, not for filling voids. For voids I would be interested in how the above UV activated stuff works... I have read that it seems to lack a bit as an actual adhesive/glue, but more like a "welding fillet"? Any feedback?
 
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It has been a month.... anything to report?

I've used cyanoacrylate (super glue) with excellent success on the P2 for CRACKS, not for filling voids. For voids I would be interested in how the above UV activated stuff works... I have read that it seems to lack a bit as an actual adhesive/glue, but more like a "welding fillet"? Any feedback?
CA has a crack filling version. Available at your local airplane hobbyshop or on Amazon
 
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You can rough it up a bit if you use Dremel with some care. There are also small files with round and odd-shaped sizes, profiles and tips. Just look up on Amazon or other hobby stores. Don't forget to clean the area thoroughly using isopropyl alcohol or other non-residue - and plastic-friendly! - cleaner.

I tell you, there's little that can't be achieved in hobby if you do some search around and find the right tools and procedures. You can even make your own tools like any hobbyist, I have a whole set made by the most crazy stuff LOL. Improvisation is easy, fun and good.

Experimentation with glues and epoxies also help. Keep checking consistently and making small adjustments and it will improve fast. I'm performing shell experiments, both fixing early-stage cracks and improvement/reinforcing of new ones to try out on P3s and it's working good.

Keep on it and you'll find a way I'm sure!

P.S.: Be aware that beyond a point there's no way to fix a cracked P3 shell. A few hairline here and there is OK but IMHO it's better, safer and easier (and perhaps definitive) solution may be to dump the cracked one, purchase a new shell ($50-60 anywhere) and perform some work on it previously as prevention. Use your judgement, and when in doubt, drop the old shell. It's just not worth it. You can use the old one to perform glue and reinforcement experiments tho - just don't fly it!

Good luck!
 
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