Help! DJI Phantom Motor Start-up Issue

[sublevel]

Hey Everyone,

I have been trolling the forums for a few weeks now, the information on this forum has been extremely helpful. Thanks. Ended up purchasing a DJI Phantom last week when the price dropped.

Yesterday, I opened up my Phantom for the first time to inspect the electronics and see what was "under the hood". When I was re-assembling the Phantom, I plugged back in the compass and GPS (had to plug the GPS back in to the NASA-M controller) and immediately I began the pre-flight checklist to get back up and running. Compass calibration was successful (even re-calibrated the compass thanks to the DJI video) and updated the Phantom to the latest firmware (Naza-M Assistant Software v2.18, Firmware 4.0).

The issues now seem to be that the motors are in some sort of "fail" state, they won't preform anything beyond a shudder. I briefly got a "error 29" from the software, but I couldn't find any solutions to the error code. I have included a link to a YouTube video I posted showing the issue at hand. http://youtu.be/KZPJjYKsyIs

I would greatly appreciate anyone's assistance with this problem, I'm quickly running out of ideas.

 

[jumanoc]

1) Download Default Phantom Parameters zip file from DJI webpage and unz the file.
2) Connect phantom to USB PC
3) Turn on TX and power phantom with battery
4) Go to Naza Assistant - TOOLS tab and IMPORT PARAMETERS ( the file you downloaded)
5) Check your TX is PPM
6) Perform Advanced Calibration
7) Unplug phantom and go to flight field
8) Perform Compass Calibration (360' dance horizontal and then 360' nose down)
9) Repower panthom and wait for GREEN ligths only (GPS locked)

Enjoy yuor fligth.

 

[sublevel]

Thanks for the fast reply, Jumanoc. I imported the parameters, still reduced motion in the motors. Any other suggestions?

 

[netphreak]

Did you get prop guards with your phantom? If you screwed in the bolts from the prop guards, they will extend into the motors and cause them to freeze up.

 

[sublevel]

Netphreak- Yes, I did. Once I realized the screws were over tightened, I backed them out and replaced them with the originals. Are the motors toast? Thanks for the help.

 

[netphreak]

Unfortunately, yes. You need to have the motors replaced.

 

[sublevel]

Thanks for the help everyone. Too bad DJI doesn't place some sort of warning about the screws on the instructions....

 

[sublevel]

I ended up sending DJI a email (we'll see if they respond) regarding the issue. Hopefully they will update their documentation and instructions so others don't have the same issue. This forum may want to post a sticky on the issue, it will prevent future heartache with other members.

On the positive side, I ordered my new T-Motor MN2214 920KV kit, hopefully I will get back up and running tomorrow afternoon.

 

[MrMediaGuy]

Regarding the T-motors, one tip -- you'll notice that all three wires are gray, not color coded. If you flatten them out so you can relate them to the wires on the stock motors, the black wire equivalent is in the same place as on stock, but yellow and red are reversed (e.g., the equivalent of the yellow wire is the other outside wire, not middle, and red equivalent is the middle wire).

And you probably know this, but each set of opposing motors is wired opposite of the adjacent motors, so pay attention to how they are wired on the ESCs.

So solder in one, and check for proper rotation (it can be hard to see, but you can lightly touch the outside of the motor to feel which way it's turning). If it's wrong, reverse yellow and red. Then go from there. Good luck!

 

[netphreak]

Regarding the T-motors, one tip -- you'll notice that all three wires are gray, not color coded. If you flatten them out so you can relate them to the wires on the stock motors, the black wire equivalent is in the same place as on stock, but yellow and red are reversed (e.g., the equivalent of the yellow wire is the other outside wire, not middle, and red equivalent is the middle wire).

And you probably know this, but each set of opposing motors is wired opposite of the adjacent motors, so pay attention to how they are wired on the ESCs.

So solder in one, and check for proper rotation (it can be hard to see, but you can lightly touch the outside of the motor to feel which way it's turning). If it's wrong, reverse yellow and red. Then go from there. Good luck!

Actually, they changed the wiring on the T motors as of late august. They do include a manual with the new motors, and two of the prop nuts have reverse threading. If you check the box it tells you that you have two CW motors and two CCW motors.

 

[martcerv]

Regarding the T-motors, one tip -- you'll notice that all three wires are gray, not color coded. If you flatten them out so you can relate them to the wires on the stock motors, the black wire equivalent is in the same place as on stock, but yellow and red are reversed (e.g., the equivalent of the yellow wire is the other outside wire, not middle, and red equivalent is the middle wire).

And you probably know this, but each set of opposing motors is wired opposite of the adjacent motors, so pay attention to how they are wired on the ESCs.

So solder in one, and check for proper rotation (it can be hard to see, but you can lightly touch the outside of the motor to feel which way it's turning). If it's wrong, reverse yellow and red. Then go from there. Good luck!

Actually, they changed the wiring on the T motors as of late august. They do include a manual with the new motors, and two of the prop nuts have reverse threading. If you check the box it tells you that you have two CW motors and two CCW motors.

I assume that is just for the anti gravity mn-2214 direct phantom replacements, the mt-2216 kv900 motors I use you can get either cw or ccw prop adapters for it. These are just bolted on to the top of the motors but by the look of the antigravity phantoms they are one piece with the prop adapter fixed.

I do just use the regular cw rotation adapters with nylock nuts I think they are much safer and if you have ccw threads then it would be hard to get a replacement nut if you ever lost one. The nylocks are very cheap at any hardware store and I have had no issues with them and can be easily tightened with a socket.

 

[Siddy]

Hi, I posted a thread either here or the other forum but it linking to the same issues with one off my motors, It starts just like yours does then it spins the right way and upto speed.
If left in a tickover upto 50% you can here a reduction in motor speed a faction of a second but it's like your car missing a beat.

This was after upgrading to V4 software.

 

[sublevel]

Motors took about a hour to install yesterday, the factory provides a nice full color diagram to follow. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[netphreak]

Glad to help. I will say that the v4.00 software makes it real easy to check your motor wiring before you close up the phantom. They added a motor test feature to the basic settings.