Gl300c controller

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I have a p3a. I messed up the remote controller, trying to fix a bad battery. Result is I had to buy another controller. Not knowing anything about model #s, I bought a gl300c. My original was a "B". I have bound it to the quad and it it's working. My question is, what kind of range issues am I going to have? I've read some on the C"s having less power. Any one out there using a "C" if so what kind of range are you getting?
 
Folks are all complaining about 300C's lower Tx, hence a lower range.
What I would suggest you Sasquad is to improve the Tx efficiency of the RC (its left antenna) by using at least a windsurfer reflector, or to mod the RC replacing the stock left antenna with a helical one.
This counter-measure is necessary because the RC is transmitting with the Tx antenna the Control signal, that happens often to the 300C to fall prior to the downlinked video that comes from the AC. If the bird doesn't hear the Ctrl signal it automatically triggers the RTH, so you're done with the range.
If you improve the Tx signal, then the bird will receive it better, so if the video eventually falls, you may fly higher with say 20-30 m, to regain back the video.
 
Thanks Quest, Seriously though what are we talking about for range difference between b & c? No one has answered that question. I've searched you tube to no avail. Plan to do some of my own experimenting when this Frickin snow melts. I do plan to do a helical on the 2.4 side. We just got hit by The winter storm Stella that roared up the east coast. NEVER move to western NY it is the butt hole of the states!... Won't be flying for another week or more. Gotta love it,,,, I'm out.
 
It's in fact very, very hard to accurately measure "range" with these quads. Even if you fly in the same spot, conditions may vary quite a bit. Even if the spot is a remote, flat inland area without other MW interferences or buildings or trees, other things affect range. These differences are also rather small to be accurately measured considering the variation in conditions.

Windsurfers and panels do help a bit. Many times we get the placebo effect, because of the difficulty in measuring range in any scientific, reliable way. SO a good flight may lead to think "wow I've doubled distanced here compared to X and Y" when in fact it had little relation.

Light bridge is pretty well engineered as it is. FWs and RC versions do have small differences indeed. I've tried most boost options currently available, and in my experience the only thing that makes a real, significant and measurable impact in signal strength - thus affecting range, penetration or whatever one may need - is a powered booster.

If penetration and signal stability is important, that's fine. If distance is the goal, a battery mod is definitely needed because in original form autonomy, and not signal interruption, has been the limiting factor every time.

All that is to say you mayor may not feel a difference (I had the same issue and didn't...), but you should be fine with your C Tx either way if your needs are nothing in the exceptional range.
 
Since the radiated power/unit area falls of at 1/r^2, a10% drop in radiated power would, under ideal conditions, drop your range to about 80%. But as noted, nothing is ever ideal in these situations.
 
I got 3453 m with 330c before I had to turn around because of the battery level.

FYI intensity = power/(4*π*r^2). A 10% drop in power gives a 10% drop in intensity. Intensity is what you want to talk about as falling off as 1/r^2.
 
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I have the C controller also,I've been 12000ft before weak signal and with windsurfer I've been almost 15000ft.I always get weak video signal first and have never lost Rc signal.
 
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I have the C controller also,I've been 12000ft before weak signal and with windsurfer I've been almost 15000ft.I always get weak video signal first and have never lost Rc signal.

Were you over water?
 
I got 16,124' (just over 3 miles) with a windsurfer. I then began to get disconnected repeatedly so I brought the AC back. This was over land, not water.

Once I started getting weak signal warnings I brough mine back. Mine was over land also. I was close to 15000ft
 
Once I started getting weak signal warnings I brough mine back. Mine was over land also. I was close to 15000ft

Yeah, I started getting warnings around 15k too, but as The AC was at 350' I was able to gain a bit more altitude. I think if I was able to legally gain another 150' I would have been able to get somewhat further, but I hung around hovering and then the low battery RTH kicked in. I got it back on the ground with 18% remaining. It was a beautiful, cloudless day, but with a slight return HW, which worried me a bit. It was a bit of a twerp, because I lowered altitude around 5k out and the HW practically disappeared.
 
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I have a p3a. I messed up the remote controller, trying to fix a bad battery. Result is I had to buy another controller. Not knowing anything about model #s, I bought a gl300c. My original was a "B". I have bound it to the quad and it it's working. My question is, what kind of range issues am I going to have? I've read some on the C"s having less power. Any one out there using a "C" if so what kind of range are you getting?

I have GL300C remote and I was able to get out to 42,000ft with battery mod and a windsurfer. This was in a flat rural area with not many tall trees.
 
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I have GL300C remote and I was able to get out to 42,000ft with battery mod and a windsurfer. This was in a flat rural area with not many tall trees.

What P3P do you have (W323, 323A, 323B) ? Or do you have a P3A (W322, W322A, W322B) ?
What signal has fallen 1st, the Ctrl signal not received by the AC, or the video downlink not received by the RC ?
 
I got 3453 m with 330c before I had to turn around because of the battery level.

FYI intensity = power/(4*π*r^2). A 10% drop in power gives a 10% drop in intensity. Intensity is what you want to talk about as falling off as 1/r^2.
11,300 was my experience too here in the U.K., across open countryside and water, which is around its CE designation. When I use a windsurfer, with its placebo effect of course, it seems I can get to 16,000, albeit I use it primarily for the imaginary signal stability. Oh and I feel great about it too....
 
What P3P do you have (W323, 323A, 323B) ? Or do you have a P3A (W322, W322A, W322B) ?
What signal has fallen 1st, the Ctrl signal not received by the AC, or the video downlink not received by the RC ?

It was a P3P with W323A motors. The video signal always went out before RC signal.
 

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