Get rid of the USB ribbon cable!

CUTTHEMUSIC said:
I understand the pinouts. My question is whether or not bypassing the anti interface board will affect video quaility.

It made zero difference for me, but it's very easy to connect and test real quick to see if it has any impact for you (I have a P1 so you may have other factors at play)
 
you know what, I'm realizing that I don't know exactly what sort of "interference" it's supposed to anti. I've never had any hint of interference on my video signal, I always figured it was control interference because when I was setting up my H3-3D I had all sorts of motor weirdness that was improved (I thought at the time) by that board... but if it's only about filtering out interference on the video feed, and I bypass all that junk anyway I guess I'll pull it out and see what happens.
 
IrishSights said:
Hey beeline, do you think you would have the time to do a more detailed howto? With a few more pics covering some of the questions raised so far. The work you have done so far is excellent.

Seconded. I am trying, but having trouble following all of the conversation. Would love if beeline or one of the other experts could summarize
  • by replacing the ribbon with the backplate connector, we are making the gimbal more hardy. Any other benefits? Any other negatives?
  • What is the recommended configuration for those who have iosd and IRC and don't have an h3-2d to cannibalize?
  • I bought the no-soldering required cable for iosd and IRC. Does that change the configuration for this?

Thanks so much for the help. Trying to learn as quickly as I can from zero.
 
IrishSights said:
Hey beeline, do you think you would have the time to do a more detailed howto? With a few more pics covering some of the questions raised so far. The work you have done so far is excellent.

Thanks mate! I wish I had taken pictures of the install but didn't and I'm a bit reluctant to pull anything apart for pics (I might not be so lucky next time!). Any pics of how she sits now I'll be happy to provide.

Made plenty of mistakes muddling through this process but got a great start by watching this video about 10 times https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TL8pqtEDuos&list=PLTd6szmxjVtaTQVlI8AODklX6km7Crgf3&index=8. I think he installs a H3-2D and a different VTx than mine but the rest is relevant. I also routed my transmitter wires through a different leg.

My first goal was to attach the 30 pin Hero port plug to the back-plate of the gimbal. Peel off the sticker covering the ribbon cable and remove the cable (there is a tiny tab or something to release it). Remove the now exposed screws from the back of the back-plate that hold the slug. This was difficult as the screw resisted the entire way out. A better screwdriver would have helped. Insert the new Hero port connector where the slug once resided. Insert the screws through the front of the back-plate using the slug as your nut on the backside. The slug also serves to protect some exposed bits on the back of the new plug. There are pictures at the very beginning of this thread for reference.

Next, I laid out all the wires from the gimbal to the iOSD and to the VTx and taped them together to check and double check that connections were correct. Be sure your wires are properly routed so they all wind up inside the Phantom when closing her up. This was my first time soldering and these wires are tiny, so a heavy dose of trial and error applies if you are not a pro like me. YouTube to the rescue. Don't forget the heat shrink (before you make the solder!).

While everything is still pulled apart, attach your GoPro to the gimbal, power up the Phantom and verify that video and the iOSD are working properly. Be sure your VTx antenna is attached but do not supply power to the gimbal (the gray cable on the back) for this test.

Remove the battery and stuff everything into the Phantom (as per the above video) and attach the lid. Attach the gimbal and its power supply and then the GoPro to the gimbal. It will click securely into place. I left the anti-interference board in place for now (mounted internally) and all is well. Be sure the wire leading out of the gimbal floats freely and is not too short or long, or in any way encumbering the gimbal movement.

Do a basic and advanced calibration along with calibrating your compass before your next flight.

Hope I haven't forgotten anything (errors and omissions clause here). I am certainly no expert. The main thing is to take your time and have no fear of the soldering iron. Hey, if I can do this, anyone can!
 
I accidentally ripped mime off and I have thad the QC for 2 weeks. Just what exactly does it do? Am I sake to fly without it?

Robert
 
I picked up one of the cables from getfpv and installed it tonight. I used peel and stick vinyl sheeting that my wife uses for crafting to hold the wires in place. Before securing all of the cables I checked to make sure that the gimbal could move without getting snagged by the wires. I then spliced into the cable that goes from the iosd mini to the fpv hub and opted not to connect the red wire. Here are a few pics









 
OI Photography said:
I already have an H3-2D to steal the port from, but this looks like it might be a great option for others who don't have one and don't mind the re-wiring that's required.

OI, have you done your conversion using the old H3-2D rear port yet. Was it easy?

I've just replaced my H3-3D gimbal after a crash and the new one has the new USB ribbon which is lame. The old H3-3D has the original port at the back of the camera which was so much cleaner and I'm thinking about transplanting it on to my new gimbal. I'm no tech wizz but it looks to me the operation is quite simple - a transfer of both the port and the circuit board. The connector for the circuit board is the same on both models.

Because I'm a bit green on things like this, I am wary of screwing up my new gimbal. Anything to watch out for? Any performance issues after the change?

I really appreciate any advice you could give.
 
just last weekend I completed this mod using the cable / hero port I purchased from the link in the original post. The physical mounting of the hero port was easy thanks to beeline's pics and recommendation. The signal mod was easy too, simply snipped the pair taking the video feed from the Phantom mainboard into the iOSD Mini, and replaced the input with the yellow/black from the new cable.
As expected, GoPro is now NOT powered from the Phantom and runs on battery only. Other than that all systems go!
I took a ton of pictures I just need to edit / sort and then I'll post them so folks here can see, but I'm afraid I'm traveling for work this week so I won't be able to post them until this coming weekend
 
Nice work CUTTHEMUSIC! Your install looks a heap neater than mine (although it performs flawlessly). So easy to pop in the GoPro and go, and retrieve the micro-card without that stupid ribbon cable completely in the way.

Glad to hear your installation went well too, QYV. Can't wait to see your pics. Safe travels!
 
beeline said:
Nice work CUTTHEMUSIC! Your install looks a heap neater than mine (although it performs flawlessly). So easy to pop in the GoPro and go, and retrieve the micro-card without that stupid ribbon cable completely in the way.

Glad to hear your installation went well too, QYV. Can't wait to see your pics. Safe travels!


Thanks!
While flying last night I had just switched to flying FPV and the gopro battery went dead because I forgot to charge it. The gopro literally died 5 seconds after I started looking at the fpv screen. Luckily I was able to still see the copter and was able to maintain control of it. I'm thinking now that having the red wire connected might not be a bad idea but I need to find a place to tap power.
 
LOL I had something similar happen... I even looked and knew I had no battery left on the gopro but I got up in the air and my friends were all "try to make it to union square" so no sooner had I crossed the 800m distance mark and POOF the gopro died. Telemetry data was still live and I have complete confidence in RTH so I just flipped the Failsafe switch and 2 minutes later bbzzzzzzzz it's right back overhead for a visual landing.
Won't be making that mistake again. hopefully
 
That cheap Wasabi batteries/charger combo for the GoPro has kept me stocked with plenty of charged batteries (but yes, it's another detail to check before flying).

Doubt it has anything to do with the GoPro not pulling power from the Phantom, but yesterday I had a rigorous 16 minute FPV flight with 30% power still left over upon landing. Also, I had forgotten to secure the camera to the gimbal with a rubber band but the 30 pin connector held it tightly in place (not recommended, however).
 
IrishSights said:
let us know if there is power from the phantom when you get it installed. If I was going to do it I would want the lot for the work involved!

Will do! I decided to spring for the 3-5 day shipping so I should have a report soon.
 
OI Photography said:
IrishSights said:
let us know if there is power from the phantom when you get it installed. If I was going to do it I would want the lot for the work involved!

Will do! I decided to spring for the 3-5 day shipping so I should have a report soon.

Interesting indeed! I will be looking for your review!
 
Where do I get the replacement for the board? I can only find HDMI cable, but I need the USB- cable.
 

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