Dual Battery Mod

[GadgetGuy]

Has anyone ever installed and used this battery dual batter mod? He shows an installation video down towards the bottom.
Modification Parts For Extending Flying Time /Two Batteries for DJI Phantom 3

The videos are worth watching, if you want to know how to safely crack open the shell, and want to see inside the lightbridge module. I do worry that relocating the camera that far forward makes it very vulnerable to even the slightest tip over on landing. I hand catch, but it still seems risky.

 

[Phantom751874]

Are there any good videos out there on how to open the DJi battery to solder the extra wires on? I saw one on YouTube but the guy was taking the whole battery apart. For the mod does the cap on the battery just pop off then you have access to the solder joints? If so I can modify my own battery as I can solder. But I don't want to split the DJi battery casing if it requires that. That looked like a lot of destructive work.

 

[MVodhanel]

Are there any good videos out there on how to open the DJi battery to solder the extra wires on? I saw one on YouTube but the guy was taking the whole battery apart. For the mod does the cap on the battery just pop off then you have access to the solder joints? If so I can modify my own battery as I can solder. But I don't want to split the DJi battery casing if it requires that. That looked like a lot of destructive work.

If there are, I haven't found them. There are one or two decent ones about P2's but that doesn't really help. There is another non-English one, never mind - it is of no help. But your timing is is pretty good! A few pages back a forum member has opened a P3 battery and was nice enough to upload pictures, some of them were even in flames, just to remind you to be careful

And, I just got through taking apart a genuine DJI smart battery I intend to remove the battery cells from and expose the pin-outs in the hopes that I can run something like twin 2s's in series, balanced as a single 4s. More capacity than a standard P3 battery without running three batteries. And, standard, Lipo HV batteries. Well that is the dream anyway As for your good timing.... Have a look at the pictures I took. My disassembly goes much further than you need to go, but only a disassembly like this will show you where the possible splice possibilities are.



I have more pictures but have reached the posting limit. I will try to try another posting to keep them together.

 

[MVodhanel]

I have more pictures but have reached the posting limit. I will try to try another posting to keep them together.

Not that many, I guess... Have a look at that double sided circuit board. I haven't really studied it yet, but on the far left are two healthy, tinned pads, as though they are there for some Aux accessory. I also get the feeling my job is just getting started here. I'm talking about *my* goals, not to worry ...

I threw the Lipo bag in there just as a safety example. I want to be able to sleep tonight.

 

[maxwell smart]

I did test flight this morning before the wind gets bad. I live in an area of high noise. There are TV towers and cell towers all around me.And then there is the police towers. I can stand in my drive way and cont 9 towers. Then there are high power lines all around. I have the bird side bod, and DBS mod unboosted. P3P.
I flew 5500ft and the RC started to get weak signal.
I had good video signal all the way. This is My best in my area.
It is the transmitter that is holding me back. Cant wait till I can get on the beach and stretch my legs. Any one know witch antenna is the RC for bird?? I think it is the one on the left when you are holding the remote like you do when flying.?
Back on topic. If you have one of the clone battery's, they come apart
a lot easier then the DJI battery. You just pop the top of and then the two faves just snap together.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v14/Falcon2/09330001_zps7hwrcndk.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v14/Falcon2/09330003_zpsf2udjowf.jpg

 

[dirtybum]

Are there any good videos out there on how to open the DJi battery to solder the extra wires on? I saw one on YouTube but the guy was taking the whole battery apart. For the mod does the cap on the battery just pop off then you have access to the solder joints? If so I can modify my own battery as I can solder. But I don't want to split the DJi battery casing if it requires that. That looked like a lot of destructive work.

Yeah but you cant ALWAYS hand catch, if you go thru all these modifications and dont push it so far that you HAVE to autoland at 2% still 2000' ft from home ghen your not really ringing out the mods potential[emoji41]

 

[Phantom751874]

If there are, I haven't found them. There are one or two decent ones about P2's but that doesn't really help. There is another non-English one, never mind - it is of no help. But your timing is is pretty good! A few pages back a forum member has opened a P3 battery and was nice enough to upload pictures, some of them were even in flames, just to remind you to be careful

And, I just got through taking apart a genuine DJI smart battery I intend to remove the battery cells from and expose the pin-outs in the hopes that I can run something like twin 2s's in series, balanced as a single 4s. More capacity than a standard P3 battery without running three batteries. And, standard, Lipo HV batteries. Well that is the dream anyway As for your good timing.... Have a look at the pictures I took. My disassembly goes much further than you need to go, but only a disassembly like this will show you where the possible splice possibilities are.

View attachment 44496 View attachment 44497 View attachment 44498 View attachment 44499 View attachment 44500 View attachment 44501 View attachment 44502 View attachment 44503 View attachment 44504 View attachment 44505

I have more pictures but have reached the posting limit. I will try to try another posting to keep them together.

Hmm, thank you for the pictures. I was hoping all the access needed to solder was to pop off the top battery cover but I see that is not the case from your pictures. It looks like the solder spots for positive and negative are far left of the button and under plastic. Which leaves me to wonder how people are getting their wires soldered in there without splitting/destroying the actual battery case?

 

[MVodhanel]

Hmm, thank you for the pictures. I was hoping all the access needed to solder was to pop off the top battery cover but I see that is not the case from your pictures. It looks like the solder spots for positive and negative are far left of the button and under plastic. Which leaves me to wonder how people are getting their wires soldered in there without splitting/destroying the actual battery case?

If all you want to do is tie into the existing hot, 15 or so volt, main power I/O; this shouldn't be very difficult. There are aftermarket folk doing this as a service... I think this is possible with a little more than removing the cap. I am going to be spending some time, starting with the board immediately accessible under the cap, documenting it. So, I may give you the specific info you need to DIY. Btw, this is probably easier to do on the bird, direct on the ESC board if you don't mind opening the shell. But, I don't recommend it, just letting you know...

It seems relevant to this thread and if I receive no complaints, I will continue posting the battery documentation here, on this thread. I think it belongs here. This thread has generated this interest. But do speak up if you want me to start a separate thread for this. I may end up posting a few pics....

 

[KyleMaxxUAV]

If all you want to do is tie into the existing hot, 15 or so volt, main power I/O; this shouldn't be very difficult. There are aftermarket folk doing this as a service... I think this is possible with a little more than removing the cap. I am going to be spending some time, starting with the board immediately accessible under the cap, documenting it. So, I may give you the specific info you need to DIY. Btw, this is probably easier to do on the bird, direct on the ESC board if you don't mind opening the shell. But, I don't recommend it, just letting you know...

It seems relevant to this thread and if I receive no complaints, I will continue posting the battery documentation here, on this thread. I think it belongs here. This thread has generated this interest. But do speak up if you want me to start a separate thread for this. I may end up posting a few pics....

I'm all for you posting here, it's really all in the same direction. This thread had a ton of awesome info now !!


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[Phantom751874]

If all you want to do is tie into the existing hot, 15 or so volt, main power I/O; this shouldn't be very difficult. There are aftermarket folk doing this as a service... I think this is possible with a little more than removing the cap. I am going to be spending some time, starting with the board immediately accessible under the cap, documenting it. So, I may give you the specific info you need to DIY. Btw, this is probably easier to do on the bird, direct on the ESC board if you don't mind opening the shell. But, I don't recommend it, just letting you know...

It seems relevant to this thread and if I receive no complaints, I will continue posting the battery documentation here, on this thread. I think it belongs here. This thread has generated this interest. But do speak up if you want me to start a separate thread for this. I may end up posting a few pics....

Yes by all means please proceed.

I suspect people are cutting away just enough of the plastic right above the positive and nagative terminals for the power mod that I'm looking to do. I want to try and avoid spending ~$100 to have someone do this for me.

 

[Phantom751874]

I checked Infininty couldn't find it. Found this on Hobbyking, not sure if it fits the P3?
DJI Phantom Carbon Battery Extension Board

Looks like FPV Customs is reselling the Hobby King battery trays:

EXTERNAL BATTERY BRACKET....INCLUDES 2-3 DAYS SHIPPING

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__55175__DJI_Phantom_Carbon_Battery_Extension_Board.html

Almost double the price but then you won't have to wait for international shipping from HK as I don't see a USA option from them yet.

 

[Phantom751874]

If there are, I haven't found them. There are one or two decent ones about P2's but that doesn't really help. There is another non-English one, never mind - it is of no help. But your timing is is pretty good! A few pages back a forum member has opened a P3 battery and was nice enough to upload pictures, some of them were even in flames, just to remind you to be careful

And, I just got through taking apart a genuine DJI smart battery I intend to remove the battery cells from and expose the pin-outs in the hopes that I can run something like twin 2s's in series, balanced as a single 4s. More capacity than a standard P3 battery without running three batteries. And, standard, Lipo HV batteries. Well that is the dream anyway As for your good timing.... Have a look at the pictures I took. My disassembly goes much further than you need to go, but only a disassembly like this will show you where the possible splice possibilities are.

View attachment 44496 View attachment 44497 View attachment 44498 View attachment 44499 View attachment 44500 View attachment 44501 View attachment 44502 View attachment 44503 View attachment 44504 View attachment 44505

I have more pictures but have reached the posting limit. I will try to try another posting to keep them together.

I wonder what the B- and B+ are on the board? Those look like they may be easier to get to than the far left P- and P+ All 4 seem to have a rather large solder joint applied to them.

 

[Phantom751874]

Someone help me step through this. I'm not an electrical engineer or anything but another post I believe in this thread made me think about something as it relates to adding these extra batteries to the P3. This may explain as well why the Hyperion 4s batteries are puffing for some?

If you add 2 4s batteries in parallel with the P3 battery this makes all 3 batteries appear as one big 4s battery to the P3, just more mAH. For example 2x 2400 4s + the P3 battery at 4s 4800 would mean the P3 will see one 4s 9,600 mAH battery and it should draw down the voltage and mAH equally across all 3 batteries.

This is fine and dandy but since the smaller 2400 batteries hold less mAH they will be drawn down past their critical state's faster than the P3 battery? Over time wouldn't this ruin the external 2400 batteries after repeated use? Would it not make more sense from a battery protection standpoint to do what Lars referred to earlier in this thread and wire up the two 4s external batteries in series and then add them to the P3 4s batter in parrallel? This way the power draw down is equal across both 4800mAH batteries (2x 4s 4800 and 1x P3 4s 4800)?

Maybe I am thinking about mAH and voltage wrong though? Thoughts on this?

 

[Ed209]

Still breaking in batteries but flew out 4.71mi. I know not nothing near record but was just wanting to push the bird farther after 9 flights on new mod. FPVLR v2 Boosted and G6 1800s run nice. Next to compare the 2400s. On this flight was flying into the wind with 20-24mph max speed. Return was going 40-49mph. Very impressed.

 

[Ed209]

Someone help me step through this. I'm not an electrical engineer or anything but another post I believe in this thread made me think about something as it relates to adding these extra batteries to the P3. This may explain as well why the Hyperion 4s batteries are puffing for some?

If you add 2 4s batteries in parallel with the P3 battery this makes all 3 batteries appear as one big 4s battery to the P3, just more mAH. For example 2x 2400 4s + the P3 battery at 4s 4800 would mean the P3 will see one 4s 9,600 mAH battery and it should draw down the voltage and mAH equally across all 3 batteries.

This is fine and dandy but since the smaller 2400 batteries hold less mAH they will be drawn down past their critical state's faster than the P3 battery? Over time wouldn't this ruin the external 2400 batteries after repeated use? Would it not make more sense from a battery protection standpoint to do what Lars referred to earlier in this thread and wire up the two 4s external batteries in series and then add them to the P3 4s batter in parrallel? This way the power draw down is equal across both 4800mAH batteries (2x 4s 4800 and 1x P3 4s 4800)?

Maybe I am thinking about mAH and voltage wrong though? Thoughts on this?

I think you're wrong. See my post a from yesterday. I tested voltage across all 12 cells in all 3 batteries. They are drawing pretty much equally. I provided pics as well.

 

[MVodhanel]

I'm all for you posting here, it's really all in the same direction. This thread had a ton of awesome info now !!


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Thanks Canada, I needed to hear that. Funny!, more relevant than I realized... The very beginning of this thread, I forgot was about P2's and contains detailed directions, including a missing YouTube on how to do it.

So I went through those directions again with the benefit of the P3 parts I have in front of me....

THEY ARE STILL VALID FOR THE P3!

There is a minor difference that seems to be just a minor nuisance, and that is an extra circuit board between the cap and the terminals targeted for the solder joint. That is it. It looks like those directions may simply be followed as is. It would be nice if that YouTube were put back together.

I'll continue my documentation because I think the circuit board may offer an even easier tap, and certainly it would be nice to know where each cell may be found, among other things.....

 

[MVodhanel]

Someone help me step through this. I'm not an electrical engineer or anything but another post I believe in this thread made me think about something as it relates to adding these extra batteries to the P3. This may explain as well why the Hyperion 4s batteries are puffing for some?

If you add 2 4s batteries in parallel with the P3 battery this makes all 3 batteries appear as one big 4s battery to the P3, just more mAH. For example 2x 2400 4s + the P3 battery at 4s 4800 would mean the P3 will see one 4s 9,600 mAH battery and it should draw down the voltage and mAH equally across all 3 batteries.

This is fine and dandy but since the smaller 2400 batteries hold less mAH they will be drawn down past their critical state's faster than the P3 battery? Over time wouldn't this ruin the external 2400 batteries after repeated use? Would it not make more sense from a battery protection standpoint to do what Lars referred to earlier in this thread and wire up the two 4s external batteries in series and then add them to the P3 4s batter in parrallel? This way the power draw down is equal across both 4800mAH batteries (2x 4s 4800 and 1x P3 4s 4800)?

Maybe I am thinking about mAH and voltage wrong though? Thoughts on this?

You don't want the two helper batteries to be HV, or if they are HV, you don't want to charge them all the way to full capacity. This is important. They need to stay just a little behind the primary battery. That is why they are usually set up as non-HV slaves in parallel with the HV smart battery. If you were to hook up full charged, HV helper batteries to the smart battery, the smart battery would believe it was being charged and stop outputting. Nope, you don't want this at altitude..... Just keep the helper batteries non-HV, and you will be OK.

 

[Dave from Ok]

Dtitus, I don't buy it either,,,once in motion, at a min, you have wind resistance (drag) that requires energy to overcome, ,,That's like saying an aerodynamic car uses less energy when moving than idling because the lift a moving car decreases the weight the tires feel...it kinda sounds like sense, and I could make a spreadsheet to prove it (or anything else) but bottom line is it's bullcrap


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[Socal Rich]

Looks like FPV Customs is reselling the Hobby King battery trays:

EXTERNAL BATTERY BRACKET....INCLUDES 2-3 DAYS SHIPPING

DJI Phantom Carbon Battery Extension Board

Almost double the price but then you won't have to wait for international shipping from HK as I don't see a USA option from them yet.

I think it works out to about the same with the shipping factored in at hobbyking vs fpvcustoms? FPV custom charge $29.95 shipped. Hobbyking charges $14 for shipping plus $15 for the tray I think.

 

[KyleMaxxUAV]

You don't want the two helper batteries to be HV, or if they are HV, you don't want to charge them all the way to full capacity. This is important. They need to stay just a little behind the primary battery. That is why they are usually set up as non-HV slaves in parallel with the HV smart battery. If you were to hook up full charged, HV helper batteries to the smart battery, the smart battery would believe it was being charged and stop outputting. Nope, you don't want this at altitude..... Just keep the helper batteries non-HV, and you will be OK.

So essentially would having a broken down p3 battery as the slave cause issues !? Since it's supposed to be "HV" ?


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