Don't Try This At Home

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Purchased a set of Polar Pro ND filters for my NEW P4. As many of you know, the stock UV filter can be a little problematic to remove. Such was the case with mine. After viewing several You Tubes, and doing a search here, I attempted most of the recommendations. Nothing worked! This was the UV filter from ****.
I then had an epiphany. All that's needed is a small channel lock and a light rag on this baby. Once the glass in the filter shattered, I knew I was in survival mode. Went back to You Tube and tried a few more techniques,again to no avail.
Used a little WD 40 and left it overnight.

In the morning, nothing had changed. What I am about to say is deserving of your condescending and derogatory replies, but this is what I did: Delicate surgery with a Dremel. Put on a set of jewelers head magnifiers, set the tool to lowest speed with a small metal cutting disk. It was a successful Filterectomy! Camera threads were unscathed and the ND's twist on beautifully.
Lesson #1 Never use on a delicate camera, the same tool you would use on a John Deere tractor.
Lesson #2 Never give up
 

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The UV filter always feels crazy tight the first time it's removed. FYI for the future, most people have success when attempting to remove it like this:
  • Position three fingers evenly around the outside of the filter (so you can apply even pressure) like this:

    Filter-Removal-Finger-Position.jpg


  • Grip the filter as loosely as possible. If you grip the filter with a lot of force and/or attempt to use tools to remove it, it likely won't budge and you might damage it.

  • Hold the camera steady with your other hand.

  • Push the filter against the camera with a little bit of pressure as you turn the filter counterclockwise.

    dreams.metroeve_counterclockwise-dreams-meaning.gif


  • Wear a rubber glove if the filter slips through your fingers.

If you need a new P4 UV filter, you can pick one up here on Amazon.
 
Way to go Jim, Easy is always best. Saw one you tube where there was actually loctite red found inside the filter threads. Others seem to have no problems. Glad yours worked well with the rubber band.
 
Loctite huh Interesting. I had no idea they use Loctite on the filters! Good to know. Thanks for posting that. Might save someone else some big trouble.

Thanks,
Jim
WA5TEF
 
We have found that once you break that seal on your lens is much more prone to moisture in the lens, that airtight lens has a purpose behind its madness .
 
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That certainly makes sense. Much like a watch I suppose. Interesting that the filters for the P4 require that the UV filter be removed as opposed to the slip over style used on the Mavic Pro.
 
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This is never ending story. Everybody who has problems with removing the front glass are doing that wrong!
Usually they push too hard. The ring is of very soft material and a little more pressure block the rotation. It is almost impossible to take it off that way.
Touch the ring very lightly/gently (as it would be of paper) with tree fingers and gently rotate it contraclockwise and there you are. It is so easy.
I know because I had the same problem at the first time.
 
I had the same problem, but with even, gentle pressure, got my JDI filter off. It wasn't easy the first time.
Then, I had the follow-on issue that the DJI gimbal lock won't fit on with a Polar Pro ND filter in place.
This week, I solved that by purchasing Polar Pro's gimbal lock. Now I can leave my ND filter in place.
 
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I had a problem getting it off of my P4P and did what I always do to remove a stubborn lid from a jar, run it under hot water. Instead of running the camera under hot water, I ran my fingers under the hot water and rubbed them around the filter in a CCW direction, and it came off easily.
 
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For those who may be interested, that method also works for removing a ring gear from a flywheel. Wanna piss off your wife? Put a flywheel in the fridge and a ring gear in the oven. But I digress....

I find that any fine thread items do better if you sort of work the item on a little bit at a time and then back off - almost like using a tap or die. For example, tighten a full revolution, then work the item back and forth back a half revolution. Then tighten to 1.25 revolutions and repeat. Remove occasionally and clean the threads and repeat. Unfortunately, this doesn't help once the item is stuck, but can prevent future items from being stuck.

D
 
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Everyone's experience with this may vary, since the assemblers at the factory may be using more torque on some units. Fortunately, mine was easy. As a machinist and a photographer, I've faced this issue hundreds of times in my career. Its not always easy. A few times I had to resort to severing the filter ring to relieve the tension holding it on. Most people may not have the delicate hand and experience to do this without causing further damage. Glad to see you did, double down.
 
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Thank you for your kind comments. Yes, I would agree that the assembly process determines the ease in which these are removed. Judging from the threads and other posts I've seen, it's easy, or it's not.
 
Just a thought on this that sprang to mind,
I have a set of filters that I bought from the DJI store. I haven’t used them yet, and don’t have the drone to hand to take a look. However,
On my DSLR lenses I’m fairly certain that you can screw one filter onto the front of an existing one. Sometimes this is handy to stack filters to get just the right amount of light reduction.
If this is the case with the drone camera then it may totally negate the need to remove the existing filter for those people that find theirs is stuck on.

My apologies if this does not apply, it just sprang to mind so I thought I’d send it in before checking my own when I get the chance.
 
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Unfortunately that is not the case. A great suggestion for DJI however. They are shipped with a UV filter that is threaded onto the lens. Any gradient or ND filter you wish to add will necessitate the removal of the stock UV,
 

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