Does anybody know the settings to have fixed aperture, fixed shutter speed and auto ISO?

[Boltzman]

When I'm in shutter mode I don't want the aperture to change (hard f-stops makes the video twitching). Is there a way to have auto-ISO in manual mode? Or any other similar setting?
Thanks

 

[alokbhargava]

ISO and shutter speed are related in auto mode. Rest are manual.


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[Boltzman]

OK, thanks. But can you fix shutter speed and aperature someway so you get auto-iso. Worked good on the P3 Pro when you had a fixed aperture of f2.8.
Hence no need to go manual at all time.

 

[GadgetGuy]

When I'm in shutter mode I don't want the aperture to change (hard f-stops makes the video twitching). Is there a way to have auto-ISO in manual mode? Or any other similar setting?
Thanks

I would like an Auto ISO setting option in manual as well. I have it on my Nikon D7100. No reason the P4P couldn't offer it, too. Set your shutter speed and aperture, and float the ISO for auto exposure.

 

[GadgetGuy]

OK, thanks. But can you fix shutter speed and aperature someway so you get auto-iso. Worked good on the P3 Pro when you had a fixed aperture of f2.8.
Hence no need to go manual at all time.

Exactly! Now that we have variable aperture, we need Auto ISO.

 

[bkushner]

I would like an Auto ISO setting option in manual as well. I have it on my Nikon D7100. No reason the P4P couldn't offer it, too. Set your shutter speed and aperture, and float the ISO for auto exposure.

You and me both. I'd love to lock in shutter, Fstop and let the auto ISO do it's thing!

 

[Falcon900]

You and me both. I'd love to lock in shutter, Fstop and let the auto ISO do it's thing!

I would worry about the noise levels varying all over the place with auto iso in such a small sensor. Perhaps it won't show that much in video.

 

[GadgetGuy]

I would worry about the noise levels varying all over the place with auto iso in such a small sensor. Perhaps it won't show that much in video.

You are assuming that you aren't already at the extremes for aperture and shutter speed, in low light. ISO is the last resort to recover anything meaningful from the scene. Switch from video to stills in the camera settings and watch how the black video mode suddenly looks like daylight in still mode! The sensor is capable of a full stop more in still mode than video. Used to be 1600 for stills and 3200 for video. Now it's 6400 for video and 12,800 for stills in manual mode!

 

[Falcon900]

You are assuming that you aren't already at the extremes for aperture and shutter speed, in low light. ISO is the last resort to recover anything meaningful from the scene. Switch from video to stills in the camera settings and watch how the black video mode suddenly looks like daylight in still mode! The sensor is capable of a full stop more in still mode than video. Used to be 1600 for stills and 3200 for video. Now it's 6400 for video and 12,800 for stills in manual mode!

GadgetGuy, I'm a professional photographer and I understand all this stuff. I will do my own tests, however, I sincerely doubt the sensor in the P4P will be as good in the noise department as my Nikon D810. My concern about auto iso is that because the noise level will vary with ISO, that variation will be visible in the video, especially in low light situations. Given that, some pretty complex video editing will be necessary to make the footage look consistent.
Also, auto iso will cause exposure to change in situations where you might not want it to change. That of course is subject to the needs of the scene being shot.

 

[Raptorman0909]

I don't think I'd want to shoot above ISO800 unless I really had to and would generally prefer to stay at ISO400 or less. I also prefer locking the exposure so it doesn't change unless I want it to change so I usually use full manual exposure. You don't generally want to be flying along then have the exposure change in the middle of a shot as that would show up unless you split the video and made separate adjustments to the two pieces of the clip. It is better to change the exposure when and where you want it to and compensate in post to avoid the obvious change in exposure. If you get things right you can often lock the exposure for the entire flight and avoid all exposure seems.

In this video I make numerous exposure changes to account for different lighting conditions. In post you would split the video at the exposure change and adjust so both clips look the same.

In this next video I maintained the same exposure during the entire flight -- the exposure was just about spot on and didn't need to be changed.

Brian

 

[Raptorman0909]

GadgetGuy, I'm a professional photographer and I understand all this stuff. I will do my own tests, however, I sincerely doubt the sensor in the P4P will be as good in the noise department as my Nikon D810. My concern about auto iso is that because the noise level will vary with ISO, that variation will be visible in the video, especially in low light situations.
Also, auto iso will cause exposure to change in situations where you might not want it to change. That of course is subject to the needs of the scene being shot.

Falcon900, I have the older D800E and there's no way the P4P sensor is in the same league as the D800E sensor as far as noise is concerned -- the D810 would be even better. I mention in my previous post that I would not go above ISO800 unless I had to and would prefer to stay at ISO400 or less. The higher ISO is there and can be used but I'd prefer to keep the video as free from noise as possible.


Brian

 

[Dome]

Sincerely I've never dreamed autoiso on my EOS camera, nor on P4.. anyway the better situation with p4 is to fix shutter and ISO and leave auto-aperture. With video footage it is important to have shutter speed at least double the fps set! As an example if you go 30fps minimum you need 1/60 shutter.


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[GadgetGuy]

GadgetGuy, I'm a professional photographer and I understand all this stuff. I will do my own tests, however, I sincerely doubt the sensor in the P4P will be as good in the noise department as my Nikon D810. My concern about auto iso is that because the noise level will vary with ISO, that variation will be visible in the video, especially in low light situations. Given that, some pretty complex video editing will be necessary to make the footage look consistent.
Also, auto iso will cause exposure to change in situations where you might not want it to change. That of course is subject to the needs of the scene being shot.

I fail to see how Auto-ISO will cause the exposure to change, any more than any other Auto method of exposure control. The whole point is to maintain the exposure during lighting changes, especially after sunset, where the light is constantly diminishing. Clearly the P4P sensor can't compete with any DSLR sensor, let alone the D810. It is still a mere fraction of the size! However, it is four times larger than the P4 sensor, to which it should be realistically compared. At ISO 3200, which is the maximum video ISO on the P4, the P4P will be substantially less noisy, and might even have less noise at a manual video ISO of 6400 than the P4 at 3200 ISO. The increase from the P4 1600 ISO to 12800 ISO for manual exposure settings on stills on the P4P is reflective of the degree of improvement in noise reduction, compared to the P4. Any comparisons to a D810 are absurd.

 

[Raptorman0909]

I fail to see how Auto-ISO will cause the exposure to change, any more than any other Auto method of exposure control. The whole point is to maintain the exposure during lighting changes, especially after sunset, where the light is constantly diminishing. Clearly the P4P sensor can't compete with any DSLR sensor, let alone the D810. It is still a mere fraction of the size! However, it is four times larger than the P4 sensor, to which it should be realistically compared. At ISO 3200, which is the maximum video ISO on the P4, the P4P will be substantially less noisy, and might even have less noise at a manual video ISO of 6400 than the P4 at 3200 ISO. The increase from the P4 1600 ISO to 12800 ISO for manual exposure settings on stills on the P4P is reflective of the degree of improvement in noise reduction, compared to the P4. Any comparisons to a D810 are absurd.

Anytime the system determines that the exposure needs to change it will change in a step fashion and be noticeable. The minimum step size is 1/3 stop and, yes, that is noticeable. I feel it is better to lock it using full manual exposure and if at some point during the flight you think you need to change the exposure you can do that at any time or chose a time that would make for a natural break. Auto exposure doesn't handle pointing towards a bright sky very well and controlling that manually is usually your best bet.


Brian

 

[GadgetGuy]

Anytime the system determines that the exposure needs to change it will change in a step fashion and be noticeable. The minimum step size is 1/3 stop and, yes, that is noticeable. I feel it is better to lock it using full manual exposure and if at some point during the flight you think you need to change the exposure you can do that at any time or chose a time that would make for a natural break. Auto exposure doesn't handle pointing towards a bright sky very well and controlling that manually is usually your best bet.


Brian

Each to their own. I fly with continuous video recording, and the changes in autoexposure based upon the centerpoint always settle in smoothly enough for me, and if not, I can adjust the overall exposure on the fly with the right scroll wheel. I avoid flying into the sun, and keep the camera pointed down to minimize the effect of the bright sky upon exposure. A GND filter can also help with that, but will ruin other shots where the upper frame is not brighter. Everything you do in photography and video is a compromise. Each of us has to decide where we want to compromise. There are no right or wrong answers. It's art!