I would like an Auto ISO setting option in manual as well. I have it on my Nikon D7100. No reason the P4P couldn't offer it, too. Set your shutter speed and aperture, and float the ISO for auto exposure.When I'm in shutter mode I don't want the aperture to change (hard f-stops makes the video twitching). Is there a way to have auto-ISO in manual mode? Or any other similar setting?
Thanks
Exactly! Now that we have variable aperture, we need Auto ISO.OK, thanks. But can you fix shutter speed and aperature someway so you get auto-iso. Worked good on the P3 Pro when you had a fixed aperture of f2.8.
Hence no need to go manual at all time.
You and me both. I'd love to lock in shutter, Fstop and let the auto ISO do it's thing!I would like an Auto ISO setting option in manual as well. I have it on my Nikon D7100. No reason the P4P couldn't offer it, too. Set your shutter speed and aperture, and float the ISO for auto exposure.
I would worry about the noise levels varying all over the place with auto iso in such a small sensor. Perhaps it won't show that much in video.You and me both. I'd love to lock in shutter, Fstop and let the auto ISO do it's thing!
You are assuming that you aren't already at the extremes for aperture and shutter speed, in low light. ISO is the last resort to recover anything meaningful from the scene. Switch from video to stills in the camera settings and watch how the black video mode suddenly looks like daylight in still mode! The sensor is capable of a full stop more in still mode than video. Used to be 1600 for stills and 3200 for video. Now it's 6400 for video and 12,800 for stills in manual mode!I would worry about the noise levels varying all over the place with auto iso in such a small sensor. Perhaps it won't show that much in video.
GadgetGuy, I'm a professional photographer and I understand all this stuff. I will do my own tests, however, I sincerely doubt the sensor in the P4P will be as good in the noise department as my Nikon D810. My concern about auto iso is that because the noise level will vary with ISO, that variation will be visible in the video, especially in low light situations. Given that, some pretty complex video editing will be necessary to make the footage look consistent.You are assuming that you aren't already at the extremes for aperture and shutter speed, in low light. ISO is the last resort to recover anything meaningful from the scene. Switch from video to stills in the camera settings and watch how the black video mode suddenly looks like daylight in still mode! The sensor is capable of a full stop more in still mode than video. Used to be 1600 for stills and 3200 for video. Now it's 6400 for video and 12,800 for stills in manual mode!
GadgetGuy, I'm a professional photographer and I understand all this stuff. I will do my own tests, however, I sincerely doubt the sensor in the P4P will be as good in the noise department as my Nikon D810. My concern about auto iso is that because the noise level will vary with ISO, that variation will be visible in the video, especially in low light situations.
Also, auto iso will cause exposure to change in situations where you might not want it to change. That of course is subject to the needs of the scene being shot.
I fail to see how Auto-ISO will cause the exposure to change, any more than any other Auto method of exposure control. The whole point is to maintain the exposure during lighting changes, especially after sunset, where the light is constantly diminishing. Clearly the P4P sensor can't compete with any DSLR sensor, let alone the D810. It is still a mere fraction of the size! However, it is four times larger than the P4 sensor, to which it should be realistically compared. At ISO 3200, which is the maximum video ISO on the P4, the P4P will be substantially less noisy, and might even have less noise at a manual video ISO of 6400 than the P4 at 3200 ISO. The increase from the P4 1600 ISO to 12800 ISO for manual exposure settings on stills on the P4P is reflective of the degree of improvement in noise reduction, compared to the P4. Any comparisons to a D810 are absurd.GadgetGuy, I'm a professional photographer and I understand all this stuff. I will do my own tests, however, I sincerely doubt the sensor in the P4P will be as good in the noise department as my Nikon D810. My concern about auto iso is that because the noise level will vary with ISO, that variation will be visible in the video, especially in low light situations. Given that, some pretty complex video editing will be necessary to make the footage look consistent.
Also, auto iso will cause exposure to change in situations where you might not want it to change. That of course is subject to the needs of the scene being shot.
I fail to see how Auto-ISO will cause the exposure to change, any more than any other Auto method of exposure control. The whole point is to maintain the exposure during lighting changes, especially after sunset, where the light is constantly diminishing. Clearly the P4P sensor can't compete with any DSLR sensor, let alone the D810. It is still a mere fraction of the size! However, it is four times larger than the P4 sensor, to which it should be realistically compared. At ISO 3200, which is the maximum video ISO on the P4, the P4P will be substantially less noisy, and might even have less noise at a manual video ISO of 6400 than the P4 at 3200 ISO. The increase from the P4 1600 ISO to 12800 ISO for manual exposure settings on stills on the P4P is reflective of the degree of improvement in noise reduction, compared to the P4. Any comparisons to a D810 are absurd.
Each to their own. I fly with continuous video recording, and the changes in autoexposure based upon the centerpoint always settle in smoothly enough for me, and if not, I can adjust the overall exposure on the fly with the right scroll wheel. I avoid flying into the sun, and keep the camera pointed down to minimize the effect of the bright sky upon exposure. A GND filter can also help with that, but will ruin other shots where the upper frame is not brighter. Everything you do in photography and video is a compromise. Each of us has to decide where we want to compromise. There are no right or wrong answers. It's art!Anytime the system determines that the exposure needs to change it will change in a step fashion and be noticeable. The minimum step size is 1/3 stop and, yes, that is noticeable. I feel it is better to lock it using full manual exposure and if at some point during the flight you think you need to change the exposure you can do that at any time or chose a time that would make for a natural break. Auto exposure doesn't handle pointing towards a bright sky very well and controlling that manually is usually your best bet.
Brian
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