Deep discharge to 8% destroyed my battery

Like mentioned above, I'm sure they'll probably warranty it! I'm sure the QC coming out of China isn't top notch, there is bound to be defects here and there.
 
Soooo much conflicting information on these batteries. Where is the trusted source of truth?

Same seems to go for compass and IMU calibrations... everyone has an opinion, and it's difficult to track down the right one.
 
A sad story, but thanks for sharing to help everyone else.

I must say that you are seriously brave for letting it stay plugged in overnight after you had the initial issues. I would be too nervous to sleep.

I was sort of nervus about leaving it over night with it being wonky But the part were it got hot only seems to happen the first few % of the charge then it would stop getting ripping hot like it was at the start of every attempt to charge it.


J.James, are you sure you just don't have a defective battery? The DJI warranty might cover it since it's less than 6 months old and charged less than 200 times

Well I cant say if it was defective or not to begin with but its definitely defective now for sure. Tho it would still of been under the dji warranty period. But I didn't feel like it was worth the bother of trying to even deal with even trying to contact dji esp when nothing seems to ever be there fault even when it clearly is. But I also didn't want to ship a defective battery being that its not even legal to ship a lipo thats damaged unless its shipped as hazardous material and by ground only.. Tho now that i dissected it some and broke open the cage. I'm sure I voided any warranty it may of had now..


Now on to what I have learned from the dissection. which is that there is nothing physically wrong with any of the cells and the problem is in the stupid not to smart circuit of the battery. Just like the problems with the p2 batterys mostly all stem from which is the stupid bad idea smart circut. The area that was getting ripping hot was all up on the very top and no were near the cells them selves. But when I opened it up and looked around inside the circuit board one component on the top of the upper board was so hot that it would of gave me a nice burn if i touched it for more then a split second. Tho on closer inspection it was actually some thing else on the bottom side of the board were the heat was coming from and it was so hot that the part had actually soldered its self and it slide and turned almost 90 degrees from were its supposed to be positioned. Tho what i cant say for sure if it happened during the discharge OR if it happened during the time I first tried to charge it after. My guess is that it got hot from the initial charge being that thats when the most amps are being applied and tapers down as it gets more charge in the battery...

Even tho I am not an electrical engineer what ever this part is or does( I'm suspecting its a diode of some kind) But what ever it is I know that THIS is not how it should be on the board. lol But for snits and giggles tomorrow. I'm going to try and see if I can resolder it back on right just to see if it will start taking a charge again or not. If it does then I can find some use for the battery some place or if not I can still use the cells for some thing some place. So its not a total lose either way.
100_3582.JPG




Now to any one thats been wondering if the p3 batterys are a real 4 cells instead of being a 2x4 like how the p2 batterys are not really true 3 cells and are really 2x3's I can report that the p3 is really just 4 cells.

and some thing else I noticed was also different about these p3 battery's that I noticed is different then the p2s which is the gray sticker thats wrapped around the outside of the cells that you can see when you look threw the cage.. on the p3 its not really a sticker and is infact 2 pcs of thin gauge sheet aluminum. Now I dont know if they changed to being metal instead of paper for some sort of heat sinking effect or if they some how thought that it might help hide some swelling. Or even to just give it some more protection then just a paper sticker could to prevent punctures and what not. Tho i suppose it could be a combo of all of them.

100_3581.JPG
 
I was sort of nervus about leaving it over night with it being wonky But the part were it got hot only seems to happen the first few % of the charge then it would stop getting ripping hot like it was at the start of every attempt to charge it.




Well I cant say if it was defective or not to begin with but its definitely defective now for sure. Tho it would still of been under the dji warranty period. But I didn't feel like it was worth the bother of trying to even deal with even trying to contact dji esp when nothing seems to ever be there fault even when it clearly is. But I also didn't want to ship a defective battery being that its not even legal to ship a lipo thats damaged unless its shipped as hazardous material and by ground only.. Tho now that i dissected it some and broke open the cage. I'm sure I voided any warranty it may of had now..


Now on to what I have learned from the dissection. which is that there is nothing physically wrong with any of the cells and the problem is in the stupid not to smart circuit of the battery. Just like the problems with the p2 batterys mostly all stem from which is the stupid bad idea smart circut. The area that was getting ripping hot was all up on the very top and no were near the cells them selves. But when I opened it up and looked around inside the circuit board one component on the top of the upper board was so hot that it would of gave me a nice burn if i touched it for more then a split second. Tho on closer inspection it was actually some thing else on the bottom side of the board were the heat was coming from and it was so hot that the part had actually soldered its self and it slide and turned almost 90 degrees from were its supposed to be positioned. Tho what i cant say for sure if it happened during the discharge OR if it happened during the time I first tried to charge it after. My guess is that it got hot from the initial charge being that thats when the most amps are being applied and tapers down as it gets more charge in the battery...

Even tho I am not an electrical engineer what ever this part is or does( I'm suspecting its a diode of some kind) But what ever it is I know that THIS is not how it should be on the board. lol But for snits and giggles tomorrow. I'm going to try and see if I can resolder it back on right just to see if it will start taking a charge again or not. If it does then I can find some use for the battery some place or if not I can still use the cells for some thing some place. So its not a total lose either way. View attachment 28427



Now to any one thats been wondering if the p3 batterys are a real 4 cells instead of being a 2x4 like how the p2 batterys are not really true 3 cells and are really 2x3's I can report that the p3 is really just 4 cells.

and some thing else I noticed was also different about these p3 battery's that I noticed is different then the p2s which is the gray sticker thats wrapped around the outside of the cells that you can see when you look threw the cage.. on the p3 its not really a sticker and is infact 2 pcs of thin gauge sheet aluminum. Now I dont know if they changed to being metal instead of paper for some sort of heat sinking effect or if they some how thought that it might help hide some swelling. Or even to just give it some more protection then just a paper sticker could to prevent punctures and what not. Tho i suppose it could be a combo of all of them.

View attachment 28428

Thanks for validating. I can now sleep better. I hope you find a use for those batteries. I wouldn't trust it in the air though..
 
So never take your flts past 25% Batt?


Yes . when I land I am trying to have at least 30% on the battery.

If you are flying until your battery reaches lower than 30%-25% and you do that very often then your battery will probably swell due to overheating . It is OK of course if sometimes you drain your battery lower that 25% BUT do that if it is absolutely necessary and do not make it a habit for your battery's life.

And yes you can drain your battery to 8% but with custom charger (because there is no such charger for phantom 3) or by stand by at your aircraft so that your battery will not become very hot and swell.
 
Well some cell went bad and I am not sure it it went bad due to low voltage. Anyway you never drain a lipo below 25% flying or hovering. You should drain lipo by consuming the minimum voltage so you will avoid over heating and swelling issues. So you can drain the lipo with a charger or just with stand by in your aircraft , not with hovering or flying

I thought the batteries have an auto shutoff if you leave them on in the Phantom.
 
I always discharge( by hovering the last minutes) mine battery's to 8 %. I did have no problems.
 
Thanks for validating. I can now sleep better. I hope you find a use for those batteries. I wouldn't trust it in the air though..
Ya I definitely would not trust that battery in the air ever. Tho I dont really trust any smart battery all that much any way esp if its on any thing that flys and there is a reason why its actually considered a big no no no in any thing mission critical such as air planes and the reason why in real air planes they are not even legal to use to run any thing that is critical.
 
I put my batteries in the fridge after flying.Not sure if this helps . but have a lot of cycles through them, and I never drain below 25%
 
Well some cell went bad and I am not sure it it went bad due to low voltage. Anyway you never drain a lipo below 25% flying or hovering. You should drain lipo by consuming the minimum voltage so you will avoid over heating and swelling issues. So you can drain the lipo with a charger or just with stand by in your aircraft , not with hovering or flying
So you should never fly below 25% of battery?
 
Well some cell went bad and I am not sure it it went bad due to low voltage. Anyway you never drain a lipo below 25% flying or hovering. You should drain lipo by consuming the minimum voltage so you will avoid over heating and swelling issues. So you can drain the lipo with a charger or just with stand by in your aircraft , not with hovering or flying
Thank you, I always fly as much as possible. I will not do that anymore... And for the dead battery, i think this will be a warrenty.
 
With my P2s I always did the discharge by flying to 8% every 20 flights but with the P3 I noticed that is not recommended in the manual so haven't been doing it. Did I miss is somewhere in the P3 manual?

I have 3 P3 batteries with between 20 and 30 flights, all supposedly perfectly healthy but none have ever been beloiw 15%. They all work great.
 
At what percent do you guys land your phantoms? I always fly mine down to 8% and never had a problem, is that bad for It? Can someone please let me know?
 
No problems here with charges @ or near 8%. As it relates to battery charging/maintenance procedures, I will go with the instructions supplied by the actual manufacturer of the product (which likely materialized after extensive R & D - after all, they designed it. The issue OP experienced may be due to several other causes (faulty battery, use of aftermarket charger perhaps, idk).
 
Well I just had to be an ...

This sounds like a warranty issue -- bad battery. I would mail it back to DJI for a replacement. I regularly discharge to 8% and recharge (I do make sure it doesn't drop much further) with not problems. I think you just got a defective battery.
 
At what percent do you guys land your phantoms? I always fly mine down to 8% and never had a problem, is that bad for It? Can someone please let me know?

It is a well known "fact" experienced radio control flyers and hobbyists don't fly lipo batteries to the lowest possible voltage before landing. Some of these guys that have been using lipo batteries since their inception in radio controlled air craft, water craft and land craft.

Take that for what it is worth -- but just be aware, at 8% the Phantom will be trying to land and in less than two minutes it will be on the ground one in way or the other. :D:D
 
After being in the hobby of everything rc for a while I have always deep cycled NiCd and NiMH batteries and the main purpose is to erase any memory that is stored away. I suppose their line of thinking is the same, but from what i have researched and from first hand experience I personally don't. It seems like with lipos and lead acid batteries that if you drain them too low they never recover the ability to hold a charge for a long period of time. This is not in stone, just my own opinion.:)
 

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