Controller's Breaking.

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I have read somewhere that some controllers are prone to breaking easily, due to poor plastic can, any one shed anymore light on this, and if so what models are prone to breaking.
 
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I have read somewhere that some controllers are prone to breaking easily, due to poor plastic can, any one shed anymore light on this, and if so what models are prone to breaking.

i can’t speak for everyone but I can’t say I’ve seen any more than some slight cracking along the mount that holds your device. Short of it taking one or multiple impacts I don’t see why your controller would break like that. I’ve never had anything more than a very small crack on the arm of the mount.
 

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I have read somewhere that some controllers are prone to breaking easily, due to poor plastic can, any one shed anymore light on this, and if so what models are prone to breaking.
We’ve seen many posts in the past about the P3 RCs with broken sticks, buttons, scroll wheels. It seems that the RTH button and the sticks were the worst offenders with regards to breaking plastic parts. Often times people could hear the broken plastic bits rattling around inside their RCs.

The RTH buttons were breaking off internally and the whole button would push down into the RC.

The internal screw mounts for the sticks would break off and the sticks would be wobbly or detach. Even now it’s one of the first things I think about when someone posts about stick issues. There are several threads about different ways to reattach broken stick screws.
 
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I was asking because there were some cracks around the battery indicator lights on the Controller, also there was some bit's of loose plastic rattling around inside it. The bit's of plastic turned out to be bit's of Joystick mount's. I was wondering if it was a common problem with the controllers, or just certain models.
 
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Had a GL300B since 2015 and had no "breaking" issues. Sounds as though the controller was dropped at some time and landed hitting the joystick. Only way I can imagine the mount breaking. I guess it's possible for the mounting screws to come loose and rattle around inside. If that's the case you need to get them out as they could cause short circuits in the electronics!
 
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Oso

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there was some bit's of loose plastic rattling around inside it. The bit's of plastic turned out to be bit's of Joystick mount's.
I’m not surprised at all. Like I said, in the past we’ve seen that reported enough times that I would have suspected exactly what you found. Broken stick mounts.

there were some cracks around the battery indicator lights on the Controller
I can’t say that I’ve seen this area reported as an issue with cracking. The stick mounts and the RTH button mount numerous times, but not around those LEDs.
 
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Capt KO

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OP what model do you have? Drone and remote. I've had so many and have yet to find one broken. Can't be common but sure it happens.
 
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I responded to this issue some time ago & thought it might be worth repeating. Having been in the plastics industry some years ago, it is common practice to mix "regrind" material in with virgin material. The amount of mixing can be the source of big problems if certain parameters are not followed, such as; the plastic being used. Some plastics don't respond well in certain conditions. This is where a good plastics engineer comes in. Many plastics are subject to "cross-linking" if 'reground" too many times, which degrades the plastic, actually changing it's molecular structure. Adding regrind to virgin material is a cost-cutting measure that can only be regulated by good quality control & good company ethics. DJI uses outside contractors to supply parts. DJI may perform some QC on incoming parts, but that doesn't account for years of use down the road. The only feedback DJI can get is from us. I have come across issues with the controllers in the way they are screwed together. The screw posts aren't big enough & use self-threading screws that are screwed into pilot holes that are a bit too small, adding stress to the post. This is a cheap way of attaching the 2 halves of the controller. The better way would be to have threaded inserts, using machine screws, but that would add a higher cost.
 
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