I will have to try that one. Do you think it is a good place to start learning, or should I jump right into something like an Adobe product?
Just read the details, it is an Adobe plugin. Answers my question.
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Camera settings mistake
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Just read the details, it is an Adobe plugin. Answers my question.
Not sure it can be used as a lone product TBH. I think it could be only a plug-in for Photoshop and possibly others but I could be wrong. I only use them in Photoshop.
If you want an Adobe product you can do the free trial for the one you want and then decide if you want to buy it. LightRoom is the easiest to get to grips with and you can use that instead of Photoshop but read the pros and cons of both and decide for yourself.
There is something called Photoshop express which is free to use, at least it used to be. I know others have tried GIMP too.
I've just found a good list of free programs and it contains info about the ones I've just mentioned too.
Best free photo editing software
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I will check the list out tonight. I am not sure at this point, looking at the Adobe pricing. It's $10 for Photo processing and $20 if I want video processing, another $20 and I would get all Adobe tools.Not sure it can be used as a lone product TBH. I think it could be only a plug-in for Photoshop and possibly others but I could be wrong. I only use them in Photoshop.
If you want an Adobe product you can do the free trial for the one you want and then decide if you want to buy it. LightRoom is the easiest to get to grips with and you can use that instead of Photoshop but read the pros and cons of both and decide for yourself.
There is something called Photoshop express which is free to use, at least it used to be. I know others have tried GIMP too.
I've just found a good list of free programs and it contains info about the ones I've just mentioned too.
Best free photo editing software
Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots mobile app
Then I just have to hit the library and read all the books. Would rather by flying!!
Here's my effort. I like to keep it natural. It's quite noisy and the lens looks like it was dirty in the top edges? Either that or it's the clouds haha. One thing I thought weird about this image is there's no street lights but it looks dark? Street lights in the UK would well have been on before that time of the day haha.
Looks duller on this forum for some reason. Add in more saturation and that's it haha.
Looks duller on this forum for some reason. Add in more saturation and that's it haha.
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A dirty lens is possible. I had the DJI-ND16 filter on the last time I was able to fly for video in the sunlight. It was removed for these evening shots ,could have put my mits on it. I selected this pic because of the jet in frame. I took 39 shots while the sun was setting, all the while playing with the settings for different looks. Unfortunately some need to be cropped as a large building came into frame as I moved around in some.
Very nice, I like it. Can't decide over all if I like so much ground. Should it be cropped a little in anyone's opinion? Personal preference maybe, it is just about 50-50 sky and ground.
I think this shot should be either 2/3 ground or 2/3 sky. the half and half disturbs me.
What's really cool about this thread is it's demonstrating how you can take the same raw pixel capture, and render it so many different ways!
to answer your comment in the middle of thread; 4:3 is kind of obsolete - but only in video filming. with most tv units sized in HD format 16:9 you should film HD video in 16:9.
additionally - if you plan to edit your videos for optimal colour, tone, etc. - you should set LOG mode for video, which gives you a lower contrast, softer video. it contains more detail than high contrasted regular mode, and you can edit it easier and better later on. use regular mode if you DON'T oplan editing it in video editing software.
and shoot photographs always in 4:3 - which is FULL sensor utilized. the sensor in this camera is tiny anyway, so maximize it. Additionally, when you shoot in difficult lighting - like that sunset - where half part is very bright, bottom part is dark - you can shoot in Bracketing mode. What I do is i shoot (always in DNG, jpg on this small sensor is usually waste of time) 3 or 5 frames. so, stop your drone in one spot and shoot bracketing sequence.
Bracketing gives you a burst of images which are; 1 image exposed properly, other images gradually underexposed, and overexposed.
Then edit DNG files without going to hype things too much, just slight corrections to enhance them. and then run these images in a good HDR software. HDR software will use best parts of all images to combine into one - more perfect image with higher dynamic range. so you will see details in highlights and in dark shadow area too.
if you know what you do in HDR, you can easily avoud that artificial look commonly seen, but you can still bering more vibrance and detail from your images.
by the way, i don't use mode available on P3 app called HDR, as I understand it shoots in JPG (not DNG) which almost always leads to lower quality final image, if shooting in not optimal lighting conditions.
This bracketing edit takes a bit of time, so i would do it when i really need good photos. but it makes huge difference. HDR sometimes causes side effect of increasted noise, but then NIK d-fine makes fantastic job of eliminating it from your final image. Best of luck.
Derek
PS. on my site I have some of aerials done that way.
www.artphotographyservices.com
additionally - if you plan to edit your videos for optimal colour, tone, etc. - you should set LOG mode for video, which gives you a lower contrast, softer video. it contains more detail than high contrasted regular mode, and you can edit it easier and better later on. use regular mode if you DON'T oplan editing it in video editing software.
and shoot photographs always in 4:3 - which is FULL sensor utilized. the sensor in this camera is tiny anyway, so maximize it. Additionally, when you shoot in difficult lighting - like that sunset - where half part is very bright, bottom part is dark - you can shoot in Bracketing mode. What I do is i shoot (always in DNG, jpg on this small sensor is usually waste of time) 3 or 5 frames. so, stop your drone in one spot and shoot bracketing sequence.
Bracketing gives you a burst of images which are; 1 image exposed properly, other images gradually underexposed, and overexposed.
Then edit DNG files without going to hype things too much, just slight corrections to enhance them. and then run these images in a good HDR software. HDR software will use best parts of all images to combine into one - more perfect image with higher dynamic range. so you will see details in highlights and in dark shadow area too.
if you know what you do in HDR, you can easily avoud that artificial look commonly seen, but you can still bering more vibrance and detail from your images.
by the way, i don't use mode available on P3 app called HDR, as I understand it shoots in JPG (not DNG) which almost always leads to lower quality final image, if shooting in not optimal lighting conditions.
This bracketing edit takes a bit of time, so i would do it when i really need good photos. but it makes huge difference. HDR sometimes causes side effect of increasted noise, but then NIK d-fine makes fantastic job of eliminating it from your final image. Best of luck.
Derek
PS. on my site I have some of aerials done that way.
www.artphotographyservices.com
you are totally right, i just think attractively composing images is another chapter. one of many to turn a snapshot into fantastic photos. we could go on and on what to do to create a masterpiece...
Thanks for the input. As someone who has not done photography or flying before my P3A, learning all this makes my head spin sometimes. But I love the learning!
Makes sense on the video (4:3) thing, must have been on the subject of video and I pulled into photos mistakenly. I have been capturing all the good advice from this forum and pasting it into Word doc for future reference.
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Makes sense on the video (4:3) thing, must have been on the subject of video and I pulled into photos mistakenly. I have been capturing all the good advice from this forum and pasting it into Word doc for future reference.
Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots mobile app
Just saw this post and take look-see at this one for you. (Picture was too large to upload)
DJI_0007 Enhanced.jpg
DJI_0007 Enhanced.jpg
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Same boat here, no flying/photography experience before about 2 weeks ago.. So lots to learn ! This forum has been a big help, along with YouTube videos explaining how to use (Adobe in my case) software.. Here's where I'm up to..
First image, similar situation.. I changed the exposure and made a mask for the sky so I could work on it separately. Changed exposure, played with vibrancy, hue etc to get image 2..
Overdid the ground a little bit I wanted to pick up the running track etc..
Changing the sunset is just a few sliders away after that.
Onwards and upwards, loving all the tips & advice [emoji106][emoji3]
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First image, similar situation.. I changed the exposure and made a mask for the sky so I could work on it separately. Changed exposure, played with vibrancy, hue etc to get image 2..
Overdid the ground a little bit I wanted to pick up the running track etc..
Changing the sunset is just a few sliders away after that.
Onwards and upwards, loving all the tips & advice [emoji106][emoji3]
Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots mobile app
This one is nice as well. I have now purchased the full Adobe suite to work with. It is time to jump in and start the learning. Youtube here I come! I have so many from the group here to compare when I take a crack at it myself. Never thought I would get so much feedback.
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