all 4 esc errors

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I just replaced my shell for my p4 and when I power it on I get esc errors from 1 t 4. Help?
 
What do you mean?
Sadly, a mistake made too often is when people take off prop guards and their longer screws and then reinsert the longer screws which then ruin the motor windings. The result is ESC errors. I’m not saying this is your issue, just likely what @Starz was talking about. Another common issue is cutting the motor wires and not removing the enameling (coating) on the wires before soldering them and putting it all back together. We seem to see that one a few times per month, though we’ve seen it a couple times just this past week.
 
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I never put the screws back in the motors but I had to cut the wires for the motors to put the motors in the new shell.
 
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If you never removed the motors from the bottom shell, you’re probably not looking at the issue I was thinking may have happened.
 
Did you solder the motor fly leads directly to the ESC boards? The sometimes considered quick dodgy method of cutting and splicing wires almost always leads to a poor outcome, you need to remove the insulation from the magnet wire to have any hope of getting a satisfactory connection.

Also double check your connections between the 3 in 1, ESC and MC boards.

If you have butchered the motor wires you will be able to fix them providing you carefully strip the insulation and solder (cover with heat shrink).
 
I never put the screws back in the motors but I had to cut the wires for the motors to put the motors in the new shell.
I see an error here.......soldering is the way to go....do not splice. Unless you are using solder splices.
 
Did you solder the motor fly leads directly to the ESC boards? The sometimes considered quick dodgy method of cutting and splicing wires almost always leads to a poor outcome, you need to remove the insulation from the magnet wire to have any hope of getting a satisfactory connection.

Also double check your connections between the 3 in 1, ESC and MC boards.

If you have butchered the motor wires you will be able to fix them providing you carefully strip the insulation and solder (cover with heat shrink).
What is the magnet wire?
 
What is the magnet wire?
He is probably referring to 32 gauge wire.....You have to remember that when you ask for help, you may get answers that are in native lingo. Happens all the time........there is no real "magnet wire".....in this terminology.
 
The lower the voltage, the more critical the connection needs to be. Solder is the better route. You may need to do some research on that. Some people can, and some can’t. There are a few tricks to it. Simple process,but you need the right stuff or you’re wasting your time.
 
So do I need to solder them back together? Ive tried but the solder just dosent want to stay on the copper
 
Flux. Copper needs to be clean. Local hardware store sells it in a liquid form. Use a qtip to apply to the wire. Somewhat caustic and may stain some materials. Probably some YouTube vids that may help. Practice on something other than your phantom.
 
He is probably referring to 32 gauge wire.....You have to remember that when you ask for help, you may get answers that are in native lingo. Happens all the time........there is no real "magnet wire".....in this terminology.
It absolutely literally is magnet wire I was referring to- it is real.... The fly leads from the motors are simply extensions of the wire used to wind the stator coils (electromagnets). Each of the three coloured sheaths contains two strands being extension from series wound field coils (three pairs wires which when terminated present a delta connection to the ESC inverter outputs).
 
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Flux. Copper needs to be clean. Local hardware store sells it in a liquid form. Use a qtip to apply to the wire. Somewhat caustic and may stain some materials. Probably some YouTube vids that may help. Practice on something other than your phantom.

You need flux to get a good electrical and mechanical connection however before you even get there you must remove the clear insulation from the individual strands. Flux wont do it. What you must do is use a sharp blade or abrasive paper/cloth to mechanically remove the coating to bright copper. The alternative, which I orefer, is to dip the ends of the wire into a molten solder bath.

Forget seperate flux- we aren’t doing plumbing. Flux cored solder will work better and is easier to work with.
 
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It absolutely literally is magnet wire I was referring to- it is real.... The fly leads from the motors are simply extensions of the wire used to wind the stator coils (electromagnets). Each of the three coloured sheaths contains two strands being extension from series wound field coils (three pairs wires which when terminated present a delta connection to the ESC inverter outputs).
Haha how do you people know these things!?
 
"... how do you people know these things!?"

It comes down to curiosity.
Since none has ever been born with such knowledge one must be curious to seek answers or understanding.
 
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Forget seperate flux- we aren’t doing plumbing. Flux cored solder will work better and is easier to work with.

Personal preference.
There are differences between the techniques used by plumbers and electricians. I was hoping to not complicate the task, as I think the op has his hands full.
As for working better with flux core type solder in this instance, I think not.
 
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He is probably referring to 32 gauge wire.....You have to remember that when you ask for help, you may get answers that are in native lingo. Happens all the time........there is no real "magnet wire".....in this terminology.

and... Sometimes you get answers that are inaccurate.;)
 

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