If that's the case.....then my LEDs and FPV are safe for 4S if connected how?? Right now they are both connected to the battery directly for power.
550 Pilot's lounge
- Thread starter OI Photography
- Start date
FangsCPO said:
Not sure I understand what you're asking...for havasu I was just referring to the fact he won't need a BEC to power the receiver has he may have seen referenced in relation to OPTO ESC's vs ones w/a BEC built in. He will need a separate BEC if he has any accessories which require 12v or less, which I should have clarified. I just assumed he'd seen a note or something about how using an ESC w/o a BEC means you're on your own for Rx power
Yea-I think the RX is powered through the PMU 2, as is the gimbal and iosd. Not 100% sure..but since I didn't fry anything, I'm going to assume we're good to go.
I just ordered 6 DJI 30A ESC's..should be here Friday. going to re-wire everything and clean it up. Still finalizing where we'll mount the ESC-but they definitely will not be inside the cage.
But-I still can't understand why those ESC's go so hot. Yea-I get that they were inside with little airflow, I was running 4S, etc.
But still......???
What is the max safe temp on an ESC? It's funny-they kept working, probably long after I melted the heat shrink on them. But-I have zero trust in them now, and the whole set-up, so it's best to start fresh-and that's what I'm gonna do.
I have a guy that knows what he's doing-so I found help.
You can be sure though that when we first test, I'll have my infrared thermometer out checking those ESC about every 30 seconds or so.
I'm still looking for some Tarot or similar 28 series prop mounts. They will bolt right onto my T-motors, and those thread start at 1/4"-not 3/8" like I have now. Unfortunately, I live on the wrong planet to buy just those prop mounts...no where on the entire internet do they exist separately from the engines.
Ol-can you measure your Sunnysky's to see exactly where your thread start? Also,if possible can you measure from the center of each of the 4 mounting holes across to see what that distance is?
I think I can get Sunnysky 28mm or maybe 32mm? series prop holders and use those if the prop threads are lower than what I have now-and if they'll match my screw holes on the engine.
I know for a fact that the 22 series I removed, won't work. They're too small and the holes don't line up.
I just ordered 6 DJI 30A ESC's..should be here Friday. going to re-wire everything and clean it up. Still finalizing where we'll mount the ESC-but they definitely will not be inside the cage.
But-I still can't understand why those ESC's go so hot. Yea-I get that they were inside with little airflow, I was running 4S, etc.
But still......???
What is the max safe temp on an ESC? It's funny-they kept working, probably long after I melted the heat shrink on them. But-I have zero trust in them now, and the whole set-up, so it's best to start fresh-and that's what I'm gonna do.
I have a guy that knows what he's doing-so I found help.
You can be sure though that when we first test, I'll have my infrared thermometer out checking those ESC about every 30 seconds or so.
I'm still looking for some Tarot or similar 28 series prop mounts. They will bolt right onto my T-motors, and those thread start at 1/4"-not 3/8" like I have now. Unfortunately, I live on the wrong planet to buy just those prop mounts...no where on the entire internet do they exist separately from the engines.
Ol-can you measure your Sunnysky's to see exactly where your thread start? Also,if possible can you measure from the center of each of the 4 mounting holes across to see what that distance is?
I think I can get Sunnysky 28mm or maybe 32mm? series prop holders and use those if the prop threads are lower than what I have now-and if they'll match my screw holes on the engine.
I know for a fact that the 22 series I removed, won't work. They're too small and the holes don't line up.
Yeah I'll be happy to measure the ones on my 3508's when I can get away from my desk and over to my workbench later today.
Thanks....just the where the threads start would help.OI Photography said:
I don't think you can buy Sunnysky prop holders, except in the 22mm series. Haven't found any bigger yet-but really haven't looked that hard either.
Could always just buy another set of cheaper motors and use those....I just don't want my props to slip.....
Or-I could get 2 washers
Ok, the un-threaded portion of the prop adaptor I have is 8mm...that's the distance from the base to where the threads start. The distance between the center points of opposing mounting screw holes is 12mm.
You can get these same ones I have (the orange ones for the 35XX motors) on banggood I think, but that's the only place I've seen them sold separate from the motors. It's possible that the prop adaptors from Tiger or Tarot's 35XX series would work but I've never confirmed that.
You can get these same ones I have (the orange ones for the 35XX motors) on banggood I think, but that's the only place I've seen them sold separate from the motors. It's possible that the prop adaptors from Tiger or Tarot's 35XX series would work but I've never confirmed that.
Thanks...my thread start at 10mm, distance of 12mm is fine. Ordering from Bang good...dunno, never tried them.OI Photography said:
Not sure about the Tarot 35 series, will have to look into that-thanks.
So basically, your thread start at 1/4"-which is the thickness of most of the props I have-but mine start at 3/8. What was Tiger Motors thinking when they did that? Is there some special prop I'm supposed to run?
Also-I have a set of APC 12X4.5, that are more than 1/4" thick at the hub......I don't really want to run that much pitch, but have already hover flown them....so maybe that's what I should go with; APC.
Tiger motors prop adapters are what I have now. And the "short" ones are only 12mm and I would need 15mm to fit the prop/washer/nut onto the shaft.
I just checked the MT 35 series prop adapters and I don't think they will work. I only have 3 holes for 3 screws into the motor-the 35 series has 4.
also-the size of the base of my 28mm adapter is 20mm.....
so your adapters use 4 allen bolts to mount to the engine?
also-the size of the base of my 28mm adapter is 20mm.....
so your adapters use 4 allen bolts to mount to the engine?
The prop adaptors on mine also have 4 holes to mount to the motor, and yeah I use hex head bolts (it came with several).
Refresh my memory on which motor you have, I was surprised when you said yours has 3 mounting holes for the adaptor, I may be thinking you went with bigger ones than you did. Have you looked at this prop adaptor yet (available in CW and CCW): http://www.buddyrc.com/sunnysky-v28-x28 ... -prop.html
To answer your earlier question, the cone top that comes with the orange prop adaptors you saw is just cosmetic really, I still just use a regular nylock nut and the washer and leave the caps (cones, whatever) off.
Refresh my memory on which motor you have, I was surprised when you said yours has 3 mounting holes for the adaptor, I may be thinking you went with bigger ones than you did. Have you looked at this prop adaptor yet (available in CW and CCW): http://www.buddyrc.com/sunnysky-v28-x28 ... -prop.html
To answer your earlier question, the cone top that comes with the orange prop adaptors you saw is just cosmetic really, I still just use a regular nylock nut and the washer and leave the caps (cones, whatever) off.
Yea-I got the 2814's...but was thinking the 35 series would still work....but totally missed the 4 screw thing. those one's from buddyrc will work I'll order a set.OI Photography said:
thanks
Cool, did you find the CW set too? You don't have to cross-thread your motors now, but with those you can if you want to (I didn't).
I'm guessing the CW ones are these;http://www.buddyrc.com/sunnysky-v28-x28-motor-accessories.htmlOI Photography said:
Fingers crossed!!!
too bad they don't make reversed thread nylock nuts.
Yup that's it/them. I've had no problems using all standard threads on the prop adaptors, the regular nylock nuts keep things secure enough regardless of which way the motor is spinning.
Yea, I thought about that, after I ordered the CCW ones....but, I still stuck in "phantom mode", where I think CCW threads are a good idea.....in reality, nylocks are probably much better.OI Photography said:
but, I plan on taking props on and off a lot for testing....so maybe once I'm done with that, I'll order another 3 CW ones and do the nylock routine. I don't think you can re-use the nylocks very many times?
You would think that little bullet cap would screw on top of the nut and keep it from backing off-like a double nut, that would make sense. Does it just push on the threads or screw on?
They screw on like nuts, but I wouldn't trust/use them unless I put Loctite on them, and I don't want to mess (ha!) with that every time I take them on/off.
I've taken the nylock nuts off my 550 at least 20 times and they still seem to grip just fine...but I'm sure there's a finite limit to how long that will continue so I just keep an eye on them and I'll replace them if they start to wear out.
I've taken the nylock nuts off my 550 at least 20 times and they still seem to grip just fine...but I'm sure there's a finite limit to how long that will continue so I just keep an eye on them and I'll replace them if they start to wear out.
Well, they look "sporty"...... 
This is just a load off my mind, knowing the threads will start at 1/4" or less.....all but 1 set of props I have, all have 1/4" hubs. I have no clue what T-motor was thinking by starting their threads at 3/8". Especially at the price point of their motors....that's just piss poor planning. OR-they want you to buy their uber-expensive CF props, which at $20 a pop, better lift 10lbs and do 70mph!!!
I want this thing to do at least 50mph...really actually need 60mph...but, there's always a tail wind
I'm pondering adding a 2nd engine mount bracket....they're just single brackets, almost like arm holders, and abutting them against the current engine mounts. that might give me enough of a flat spot to mount the ESC's on the bottom end of the arms beneath the motors. Have to see Tomorrow when the ESC's get here how big they are.
Even though someone else is doing the soldering, I want to plan out all the wiring to eliminate waste wire and have plenty of space in the hub....lighten this thing up. Might use aluminum wire in place of copper...anyone have any thoughts on the positive or negative on aluminum? Seems more conductive and less restrictive-also lighter...but it's spendy.
Also-going with the Futaba receiver that came with my 14SGH.....the EZ UHF transmitter, turnigy 9XR remote, and receiver will be for sale soon. No point in having UHF when I'm receiving so much electrical noise on my FPV video. I hope that solves the problem.
Basically, we're starting over......except for the motors and their mounts. They're good to go, and mounted dead square on the arms-that took over an hour on these arms, as they're no reference for center.....
This is just a load off my mind, knowing the threads will start at 1/4" or less.....all but 1 set of props I have, all have 1/4" hubs. I have no clue what T-motor was thinking by starting their threads at 3/8". Especially at the price point of their motors....that's just piss poor planning. OR-they want you to buy their uber-expensive CF props, which at $20 a pop, better lift 10lbs and do 70mph!!!
I want this thing to do at least 50mph...really actually need 60mph...but, there's always a tail wind
I'm pondering adding a 2nd engine mount bracket....they're just single brackets, almost like arm holders, and abutting them against the current engine mounts. that might give me enough of a flat spot to mount the ESC's on the bottom end of the arms beneath the motors. Have to see Tomorrow when the ESC's get here how big they are.
Even though someone else is doing the soldering, I want to plan out all the wiring to eliminate waste wire and have plenty of space in the hub....lighten this thing up. Might use aluminum wire in place of copper...anyone have any thoughts on the positive or negative on aluminum? Seems more conductive and less restrictive-also lighter...but it's spendy.
Also-going with the Futaba receiver that came with my 14SGH.....the EZ UHF transmitter, turnigy 9XR remote, and receiver will be for sale soon. No point in having UHF when I'm receiving so much electrical noise on my FPV video. I hope that solves the problem.
Basically, we're starting over......except for the motors and their mounts. They're good to go, and mounted dead square on the arms-that took over an hour on these arms, as they're no reference for center.....
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2013
- Messages
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Maiden Flight Successful!
Everything performed as planned great stable flight. I am looking forward to more flights.
I was in the air for about 4 minutes before the warning came on and I landed. I am using a Zippy 5000 mhA, even with that battery 4 mins is way to short. It only took 1511 mhA back in. I do plan on purchasing some new batteries but I wanted to hold off till it was flying.
The Naza Settings are currently default, I was going to change them to First Warning 13.6 (3.4 per cell)and Second 12.7 (3.175 per cell) I do not do distance flying so I do not need the extra in the tank. I land on first warning every time or when the Telemetry shows 13.7 I also have a buzzer set for 3.4V per cell on board. That makes 3 monitors going to tell me when I get to the limit.
The voltage drop on the zippy packs are stupid and I want to get what I can out of them. I do want opinions on this however as it is pushing the limits I think.
Everything performed as planned great stable flight. I am looking forward to more flights.
I was in the air for about 4 minutes before the warning came on and I landed. I am using a Zippy 5000 mhA, even with that battery 4 mins is way to short. It only took 1511 mhA back in. I do plan on purchasing some new batteries but I wanted to hold off till it was flying.
The Naza Settings are currently default, I was going to change them to First Warning 13.6 (3.4 per cell)and Second 12.7 (3.175 per cell) I do not do distance flying so I do not need the extra in the tank. I land on first warning every time or when the Telemetry shows 13.7 I also have a buzzer set for 3.4V per cell on board. That makes 3 monitors going to tell me when I get to the limit.
The voltage drop on the zippy packs are stupid and I want to get what I can out of them. I do want opinions on this however as it is pushing the limits I think.
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- Nov 3, 2013
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- Reaction score
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Here is the set up
F550 http://www.atlantahobby.com/Store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=18305&idcategory=875
Camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/FPV-700TVL-...ns-/281244500170?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1120
BEC http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEC-3A-12V-...-l-/281337946612?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1120
Battery http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=17819
LED http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-Red-3528...BW-/161249251713?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1120
RX http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=24785
VTX http://ctrl.me/FlySight-TX5804-5.8ghz
Antenna's http://hobbywireless.com/58-ghz-ant...ghz-whip-rhcp-antenna-set-sma-male-p-701.html
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I will be adding the following unless people have better suggestions If you know a cheaper place or better product to purchase please let me know. I am not currently using landing gear to conserve weight. I may have to install when the gopro goes on.
IOSD http://www.atlantahobby.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=17859&idcategory=0
Camera Switch http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_66_111&products_id=1283
Batteries http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53_84_216&products_id=1664
GoPro Mount http://www.irisaerial.com/products.html
F550 http://www.atlantahobby.com/Store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=18305&idcategory=875
Camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/FPV-700TVL-...ns-/281244500170?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1120
BEC http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEC-3A-12V-...-l-/281337946612?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1120
Battery http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=17819
LED http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-Red-3528...BW-/161249251713?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1120
RX http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=24785
VTX http://ctrl.me/FlySight-TX5804-5.8ghz
Antenna's http://hobbywireless.com/58-ghz-ant...ghz-whip-rhcp-antenna-set-sma-male-p-701.html
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I will be adding the following unless people have better suggestions If you know a cheaper place or better product to purchase please let me know. I am not currently using landing gear to conserve weight. I may have to install when the gopro goes on.
IOSD http://www.atlantahobby.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=17859&idcategory=0
Camera Switch http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_66_111&products_id=1283
Batteries http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53_84_216&products_id=1664
GoPro Mount http://www.irisaerial.com/products.html
I'm assuming this is 4S. The Zippy is the worst performing battery I've ever seen. I have a 3S 8000mah(3 of them actually), and they rarely get more than 50% of rated Mah before the voltage drops below safe levels.BallisticPhantom said:
Did I miss your build? Engines/props/AUW, etc?
EDIT; I see you posted while I was writing. The orange Readymade batteries are good-I have 2 of them. But, they're heavy.
Again-need to know AUW, engine size and prop size before I can make any comments.
