10 flights = stress cracks...

I mixed what appeared to be just a bit more than I would need, them stirred it up well, within about 2 minutes it begins to thicken to about a Mayonnaise consistency. So what I did was stir it for about 30 seconds and it was about like chocolate syrup... I poured it slowly in and all around the motor mount area up to the level of the top of the mount stubs... Then I tapped it with my hand vibrating the plastic so it would auto level making sure I was to the top of the mount stubs but not above them. Now the plastic after about 8 minutes becomes like puddy, so I took a toothpick and scooped up some and put it in front of the arm mount screw areas where most people see cracks happen. And because it is like puddy at this point you can press it and shape it with your finger into that area so that it looks nice and is in bulk enough to provide all the strength you will want. Now at about 12 minutes it begins to firm up where you can no longer manipulate it. Within a couple of minutes it begins to heat up and the bonding begins, it will stay hot for a few minutes and then cool down. After it cools it is finished curing.. It is now chemically and mechanically bonded to the shells plastic. It is permanent at this point, It "Is part of the Shell" I recommend this to new Phantoms as well as any with cracks.. If you have cracks I wouldn't worry about it... This will fix it with 100% certainty .. Just Do It!!!
phantom_plastaid.jpg
 
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just JB weld the hell out of everything and you should be fine.
JB weld is the duct tape of mixable compounds.
 
It seems that with so many people having stress crack issues I'm surprised more people are not grabbing these drones while its hovering and then shutting off the motors vs landing them
 
Bondic looks like a great product, but it appears to be more of a glue I would think it would do a minor fill and reinforce but the quantity in the kit is not very much. The Plast-aid is Tough stuff... Earlier in this thread someone mentioned Plast-aid softens when heated... this is somewthat true, I took a piece 1/4 in thick and boiled it for 2 minutes, took it out and it would flex a bit by hand however when it cooled to room temp it was as hard and strong as original. Now keep in mind, the area around the motor mount doesn't reach those extreme temps... Now I have not measured the temp with a laser device, however after my flights the motors are generally cool enough you could press them against your cheek's without any burning sensation. Again.. I don't think I can really convey the ease of use and the bonding strength of Plast-Aid... I suppose you would have to see and test it yourself just to understand how perfect of a solution this material is. I really don't care what it's made from, could be dental material, fingernail material, something used to repair motorcycles, fix hot tubs, patch a hole in a pvc pipe... all I know is it just works perfectly, and is one of those things you'll say I can't believe I never used this before... It's just that impressive.
 
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Thanks for a ver complete answer....

The Bondic isn`t glue. However, after receive UV light, becomes rigid and its compatible with plastic...

Just trying here share same options with the forum to get a solution to this problem.
My P3A is on Germany for repairs.

If they send me a "old" shell, i will buy a new one V2, and try this method to reinforce it, specially around the screws.....

The important is to share here some ideas and solutions for this nasty problem....and yours, so far, seems the best one! ;-)
 
I've got the plast-aid, not applied yet, do not have any cracks.... yet, ... before I do apply it wondering about the UAV bits strong arms compared to the summit link prop guards... see the attachment piece for the prop guards is one piece, the same as the UAV bits... UAV bits claim by putting them on makes the entire motor area stronger by EVENLY strengenthing it, but also includes 2 screw holes for the shell, all together 6 screws per bit per arm. Now by putting on the summit link prop guards, they come with an attachment piece that is one piece per arm that uses 4 screws. I'm thinking that is pretty much the same as the UAV bits idea, just without the 2 shell screws that claims helps to just prevent screws from loosening by deforming UAV bit plate. I still plan on applying plast-aid and keep the summit link prop guards on, is it a bit of overkill though?
 
I used the Plast-aid on all my areas around the mounts like in the photo I attached, mixed it and poured it in while it was thin, have to do that within the first 2 minutes. I did one arm area at a time don't try to do them all at the same time... cures too fast. Pour it in up to level with the motor mount stubs. maybe 1/32 short of the top would be great. After I was done and re assembled I installed the summit link mounts for the prop guards as well, I may or may not use the prop guards but t 4 screws attach to the motor directly and once all is in place it is rock solid. Report back I really want to hear your impression of just how strong it feels.
 
I used bondic, and it not only did not stop the cracks from spreading, it increased the rate of their spreading. And I used quite a bit (2 full tubes).

Ended up just getting a new shell and swapping it myself.

Plan to do it again should cracks appear on this "newer" shell revision.
 
I used bondic, and it not only did not stop the cracks from spreading, it increased the rate of their spreading. And I used quite a bit (2 full tubes).

Ended up just getting a new shell and swapping it myself.

Plan to do it again should cracks appear on this "newer" shell revision.

Im interested on that information....

Could you provide some photos of the shell with the places were you applyed Bondic?

Everbody would be interested...i think.
 
I just spoke with the inventor of plast-aid. I suggested he create an account only to answer any questions that have arise about the use and limitations of his product.
 

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