Sunset Photos help

[DKG13CC]

I usually shoot sunsets, and Ive been loving it so far, but i have really no idea how to edit/sharpen/clear up the image to where I could have it printed professionally at a large size (say a panorama over a couch). This shot is unfiltered or edited yet and Im looking for pointers.

Thanks!

 

[Mix_]

My 2 cents:
1) use RAW file format, all camera settings manual. Same with white balance - just set one constant and then in post choose the best one (the main reason to shoot in RAW);
2) use AEB - due to limited dynamic range of drone's camera and harsh light differences, to avoid overblown white's and crushed blacks, the only option is take more photos of the same frame and then create the final image in post.

I never used DJI Go app (except initial setup of my bird), but in Litchi You can automate the panos, too (and set up the exposure bracketing, too).

And, yes - high ISO creates high noise level and lessens dyn. range - for sunsets/rises not really needed to go higher then 100-200.

 

[crash1sttime]

I agree with Mix, I used to shoot JPG and then changed to RAW and use photoshop to edit them, PS can do so much with a RAW file, i just like sliding the various knobs until I get the desired effect.

 

[mikehhfx]

As Mix_ says always shoot in RAW format, you have so much more control over the image in post production. If you can get your hands on a copy of Photoshop, it's a great tool for editing photos, or Photoshop Elements is a lot cheaper to buy, and does a similar job as the real Photoshop.
As far as where to print, do a search of the net for the area you live in, there are also many internet based print houses that can make great prints. I'd always order a small print as a sample to see what they print like, what you see on your screen is not always what will be output, unless you have you display calibrated to the print house, which is not something most people can or will do.

 

[Mix_]

As Mix_ says always shoot in RAW format, you have so much more control over the image in post production. If you can get your hands on a copy of Photoshop, it's a great tool for editing photos, or Photoshop Elements is a lot cheaper to buy, and does a similar job as the real Photoshop.
As far as where to print, do a search of the net for the area you live in, there are also many internet based print houses that can make great prints. I'd always order a small print as a sample to see what they print like, what you see on your screen is not always what will be output, unless you have you display calibrated to the print house, which is not something most people can or will do.

Aye, I agree with mikehhfx - the software choice depends on Your preferences, plans and wishes - if You like to pay once and not too much, go with PS Express. If you plan to use the software more seriously, Adobe has a good and not too expensive offer for photographers for 10-12 bucks monthly, which includes Photoshop and, maybe even more important - Lightroom (if we keep it simple - as far as photoghaphy demands, Lightroom, further, in art territory - Photoshop). Lightroom gives the organizing features, so much needed in digital photo times (we have thousands of photos, and w/o a powerfull organization tools most of them are lost forever).
I myself use Phase One's Capture One Pro (a kind of good alternative to Lightroom) - i like it better (I have a full subscription to Adobe's CC, too)

 

[DKG13CC]

Awesome guys thanks for the help. I have been shooting raw format for the entirety of my flying so it sounds like i can go back and have a lot of options.

 

[ravedog]

So you understand RAW a little more, it's literally the raw dump from the sensor wrapped in a DNG file. The great thing about RAW is especuslly combined with Lightroom is that you are never touching the pixels of your image, you are merely laying a recipe of changes to the original file. Don't like it? Back up or reset or make 20 virtual copies of the original with a different look for each one.

If all your doing is "enhancing" the image then use Lightroom. It's quite powerful. And takes up no additional space than the original file no matter how many copies it changes you make. Photoshop is extremely powerful and most of the time unnecessary unless you are pixel editing like compositing or the like. Plus you have to save the file out as another copy when done (remember you can't alter a RAW image).

I would look into the Adobe Photographers bundle if you get semi serious with still photography. Not only is it great for organization as mentioned by Mix_ but image correction and more and the package is inly 10$ a month.

Happy shooting.

 

[Robert Smith jr]

I highly recommend the Google Nik filters (free). Pull your AEB or HDR photos in and you can get both foreground and sky on the pic. Great fun!

 

[DKG13CC]

Thanks guys. I have a follow-up if anyone has any ideas or pointers: I just bought an Osmo last night. Can photos be stitched from two perspectives (drone and ground) without a ton of distortion?

 

[Super Dave]

My 2 cents:
1) use RAW file format, all camera settings manual. Same with white balance - just set one constant and then in post choose the best one (the main reason to shoot in RAW);
2) use AEB - due to limited dynamic range of drone's camera and harsh light differences, to avoid overblown white's and crushed blacks, the only option is take more photos of the same frame and then create the final image in post.

I never used DJI Go app (except initial setup of my bird), but in Litchi You can automate the panos, too (and set up the exposure bracketing, too).

And, yes - high ISO creates high noise level and lessens dyn. range - for sunsets/rises not really needed to go higher then 100-200.

Wait!!!!
I also do a LOT of sunsets and need to find a really good edit package.
I shoot in both raw and jpg.
RAW programs have way too many variations and terms that i completely don't understand.
I'll look at the recommendations.
I know i need to study a lot of tutorials, but just in the above post:
AEB?
What does ISO stand for?

 

[ravedog]

Aeb. Auto exposure bracketing. Takes a group of shots at different exposure levels to be later combined in post processing to get more dynamic range.

 

[ravedog]

ISO. is the sensitivity of the sensor to light. Low numbers need more light. Higher numbers need less light but add more noise.

 

[ravedog]

Google "the exposure triangle" to learn about these things. It's basic photography 101

 

[Super Dave]

Thank you, but is AEB a setting i choose when setting up in manual?
When choosing ISO, basically all i really know is, 500 for sunny days.
I'm kinda getting dyslexic on that one:
Sunny days, water = low ISO.
Cloudy or darkness = high ISO.

I like to mess with light, dark, contrast, color hues, vignettes, but it seems like one change will completely screw another. Maybe just the nature of the business.
And histograms? Holy crap, never met one until now.
I'd like to get the most out of my shots, as i have literally hundreds, as I'll take a couple dozen at a time, as the colors and hues change by the minute.

 

[Super Dave]

ps....the pics are Mt. Diablo, from Grand Island, Ca. Delta.

 

[Mix_]

Thank you, but is AEB a setting i choose when setting up in manual?
When choosing ISO, basically all i really know is, 500 for sunny days.
I'm kinda getting dyslexic on that one:
Sunny days, water = low ISO.
Cloudy or darkness = high ISO.

I like to mess with light, dark, contrast, color hues, vignettes, but it seems like one change will completely screw another. Maybe just the nature of the business.
And histograms? Holy crap, never met one until now.
I'd like to get the most out of my shots, as i have literally hundreds, as I'll take a couple dozen at a time, as the colors and hues change by the minute.

ISO 500 is Way To High - unless it's about decent and good "real photo" camera, such a high iso isn't a good idea.

Keep 100, unless forced to rise.

Rule of thumb for handheld (ok, maybe drone-held, too) photos is, that the shutter speed shouldn't exceed 1/focal length of optics used. So, for my P3A thats 1/20s as max length.

 

[Super Dave]

Thank you, I'll rattle that around in my head gor a while, but that help a lot for sure.
I've been going by, a little retained info and trial and error.
Very helpful, I'll try asap and check results.

 

[Robert P]

I usually shoot sunsets, and Ive been loving it so far, but i have really no idea how to edit/sharpen/clear up the image to where I could have it printed professionally at a large size (say a panorama over a couch). This shot is unfiltered or edited yet and Im looking for pointers.

Thanks!

Here is a photo I took with my standard 3 the first one is original the second one I touched up. This was the first photo that I did any type of editing to