SRP has been listening to their aerial shooters. Graduated ND16-8
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Look promising, but these can only be used for niche shots (sky+landscape) at a certain gimbal angle. I can't imagine buying these unless I'm making a lot of money for the pictures [emoji3]
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Initially I thought the EXACT same thing. But the graduation is designed so tilting the camera works at all angles! In my initial tests pointing the camera straight down doesn't give you a "darker image on top" kinda look. I'm still testing and will post a vid or pics soon but the graduation is broad and subtle so when installed you're not locked into say, only shooting straight forward. Another pleasant surprise my tests have revealed is how the GND filter "flattens out" the image. So the camera, and you, aren't fighting what to expose for .... sky or land. The sky - which is inevitably hotter in every aerial shot - is toned down to more closely approach the tonal range of the land...so the exposure looks more balanced.
From what I understand SRP has been developing this particular filter for quite a long time for obvious technical and logistical reasons. It just wasn't ready.... until now.... and I am thrilled.
Just wish the rain would stop
so I can continue testing and post something to share my results.Pics or it didn't happen! Just put a raincoat on your Phantom, it'll be fine.
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I thought about it....Pics or it didn't happen! Just put a raincoat on your Phantom, it'll be fine.
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LOL... Yep... really tight and almost a "pressurized" feeling right? I've already made this comment to SRP a few days ago. They are now notching the o-ring to allow air to escape relieving the vacuum pressure when installing and uninstalling on the camera lens. (This company really listens to their consumers!)
AT YOUR OWN RISK BUT I QUICK AND EASY SOLUTION: I personally did this to all my existing filters o-rings with an exacto knife. Remove the rubber o-ring. Just pinch the o-ring together to create a tight curve on an outside edge. Then on that little curve or bend, shave off a tiny bit (1-2 mm) of the rubber o-ring creating a "leak" where air can escape. Took me about a minute for each of my filters. Now mine slide on and off with minimal effort while staying snug and safe for flight.
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Nice, I tried that and I think it helps.
For giggles I also tried it without the o-ring altogether but then it slides on/off too easily. It definitely seems like a slightly more forgiving o-ring would make a world of difference.
It might also feel "cheaper" but I wonder if it would also weigh a lot less if the lens frame weren't aluminum (or whatever) but plastic.
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Your videos are always great. I assume the "before" color grading portions are simulated?
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Ohhhh, so all that was done in post then. Wow, that must take a lot of time and patience.
I have Final Cut Pro -- I need to learn how to do that.
Sorry for all the questions for you but I do have another... do you have any advice for dialing in settings when you take pics/video? Especially with the SRP filters on? I find that it's so hard to see what's on my iPad, even with a sun shade that I feel I'm mostly guessing. Are there some settings you leave along and others you change?
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Ask away man.... If i didn't have folks like you to learn stuff from I'd be in a world of hurt!
All advise below pertains to individuals that plan and like to do Post color work:
As you've notice the example vids I do are color corrected and graded...always. I don't believe in a "magic filter" that makes everything "look super"...with zero effort. Though I plan to grade and color my shots the SRP ND and CP filters are critical in making sure I get the right shot in-camera.
I shoot everything with these settings:
LOG Profile
-2 Sharpen
-3 Contrast
-2 Saturation
Manual WB setting
I want my shots as "flat" in tonal range as possible. The reason is you have MUCH MORE wiggle room to push and pull in post. e.g. Flat gives you control of the footage or picture. If you shoot on a very contrasty saturated setting you can damage the shot. Highlights are blown out to pure white, Shadow crushed to pure black. After this has happened it's in the footage forever. Nothing you can do in post to bring up crushed blacks or whites. The information is lost. Shooting flat helps you retain more "Dynamic Range". Meaning even in dark shadows there is still tonal detail instead of solid black. Same for say... Clouds. Lots of subtle detail in the whites to work with instead of blown out pure white.
Best way is to do some quick 10 second tests. Shoot a bunch of shots with different settings and compare. What I like may not be what you like and that's cool. You'll figure out what works for you personally. That's whats so great about this as it's very subjective and to each his own. BTW: Final Cut has all the tools you need to start grading and coloring your footage via my settings above.
Hi fhagan. Do u rem the iso. Fram rates and shuttr speed for this footage?? Its very nice indeed. Fyi. Ive been using davinci resolve lately. Any experience w it? Sorry if u already answ this. B
dude.....
akshfraeofnaseoruiernghtyehytgou
there are some extra letters for you to use.
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Sure. I shoot at 24 fps. To maintain a proper exposure my Shutter speed was anywhere from 50 to 160. (Mostly on the low end of that.) ISO 100. Sorry I have not messed around with Da Vinci resolve enough to speak intelligently about it. I use Premiere Pro CC 2015. That said, I know that da Vinci resolve is a fantastic application.
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