Soldering a part back on to Phantom 4

[markpovraznik]

This happened when I removed the gimbal, camera and visual positioning system from my Phantom 4. I removed the 8 screws and removed the gimbal/camera unit. There were two ribbons connecting it to the drone body. One connector presses on to the connector and has what appears to be as brass metallic back. The other connector is a small square white plastic with 4 tiny pins coming out that clips into the the receiving socket on the drone. As I removed the brass backed connector the other connector came loose as well but I soon discover that the receiving connector that was attached to the drone came off the board. I see to very small lines on the board and remants of what looks like a very thin solder which held it onto the board. Can this be replaced easily and do I solder or is there some kind of conductive adhesive that I can use? Please see attached photos.

 

[With The Birds]

Thats an easy solder job, simply tin the pads and sweat the pins back on. you could stick it down with whatever suitable adhesive you have on hand before soldering. It doesn't look like you managed to butcher the board. Seems they were a bit miserable in securing the connector when the board was made.

 

[defvs]

If you have no experience in soldering, start by training. Theses connectors are SMT, which means they are Surface Mounted (there are no holes).

Start by cleaning the pads by adding new solder then removing that solder with solder wick. Then add some flux to make the solder stick more easily. Make sure your iron is hot enough but not too much. Place the connector on the pads then add solder on your iron and apply the iron on top of the pad. Add flux if it doesn't stick well or gets in too much quantity.

Make sure none of the pins are shorted out. Soldering the two outer pads (the largest ones) is not 100% necessary. They serve the purpose of tightening the connector to the board as well as ground plane. Solder them if you can.

Good luck.

 

[MotorCycle-Man]

AND don't USE any more heat then is needed...to git r done...them tiny pins can take heat up inside that component and fry whats inside Fast ! "Good Luck" !

Don't leave us hanging Let Us know how you do.

 

[With The Birds]

If you have no experience in soldering, start by training. Theses connectors are SMT, which means they are Surface Mounted (there are no holes).

Start by cleaning the pads by adding new solder then removing that solder with solder wick. Then add some flux to make the solder stick more easily. Make sure your iron is hot enough but not too much. Place the connector on the pads then add solder on your iron and apply the iron on top of the pad. Add flux if it doesn't stick well or gets in too much quantity.

Make sure none of the pins are shorted out. Soldering the two outer pads (the largest ones) is not 100% necessary. They serve the purpose of tightening the connector to the board as well as ground plane. Solder them if you can.

Good luck.

I would avoid the initial step of removing the solder- unless your intention is to go with lead/tin solder in performing the repair. Reflowing what is there will see you avoiding applying excess heat to the pads and traces on the board.

 

[MotorCycle-Man]

And one guy mentioned using "FLUX" above thats not needed as it's in the rosin core solder ! right With the birds ?

 

[defvs]

And one guy mentioned using "FLUX" above thats not needed as it's in the rosin core solder ! right With the birds ?

You really need flux; the more the better. The one in your solder is not enough (about 1.5%) and will vaporize pretty fast.

I would avoid the initial step of removing the solder- unless your intention is to go with lead/tin solder in performing the repair. Reflowing what is there will see you avoiding applying excess heat to the pads and traces on the board.

You should never mix two different solders --> Cold joints... Why ? Because DJI's solder is Lead-free, yours is probably leaded. Two different melting temperatures...
Also every component on that board is rated for at least 300°C to survive their reflow when they get soldered to the board

 

[MotorCycle-Man]

Sounds like some pretty good advice....lets see if we get any more ideas...on this subject.

 

[With The Birds]

You really need flux; the more the better. The one in your solder is not enough (about 1.5%) and will vaporize pretty fast.


You should never mix two different solders --> Cold joints... Why ? Because DJI's solder is Lead-free, yours is probably leaded. Two different melting temperatures...
Also every component on that board is rated for at least 300°C to survive their reflow when they get soldered to the board

I have plenty of silver/copper solders and leaded varieties also (with and without flux and some in paste form). If you know about this you will appreciate there is a big difference between a component/board performance in manufacture and how things hold up in repair/rework. We aren’t concerned about the prospect of a dry joint so much as the slim chance of microfracture from mixing alloys.

My intent is to give the OP the best chance of making a functional and reliable repair. Suggesting the uninitiated start fiddling with solder wick on an SMD board is asking for trouble. Have another look at the pic posted. There is a lot if solder still on the board. Probably enough to just sweat the connector back on with a tiny bit of flux for good measure. The less heat he needs to apply the greater the chance of avoiding issues.

 

[defvs]

I have plenty of silver/copper solders and leaded varieties also (with and without flux and some in paste form). If you know about this you will appreciate there is a big difference between a component/board performance in manufacture and how things hold up in repair/rework. We aren’t concerned about the prospect of a dry joint so much as the slim chance of microfracture from mixing alloys.

My intent is to give the OP the best chance of making a functional and reliable repair. Suggesting the uninitiated start fiddling with solder wick on an SMD board is asking for trouble. Have another look at the pic posted. There is a lot if solder still on the board. Probably enough to just sweat the connector back on with a tiny bit of flux for good measure. The less heat he needs to apply the greater the chance of avoiding issues.

Good luck soldering back a 6-pad component with solder already applied on the board without a heat gun. You'll have to melt at least two pads a time and that would be horrible

 

[With The Birds]

Good luck soldering back a 6-pad component with solder already applied on the board without a heat gun. You'll have to melt at least two pads a time and that would be horrible

Have you actually done this? I’m trying to give the OP a realistic solution without a heap of tools and skill needed.

 

[defvs]

I talk only from experience.
How about OP simply sends the board to one of us ? Would simply his work.

 

[MotorCycle-Man]

Good luck soldering back a 6-pad component with solder already applied on the board without a heat gun. You'll have to melt at least two pads a time and that would be horrible

S I M P L E two people..two soldering irons and each know what needs to be done to get the part back on the CB....part back in place and back together ! Problem S o l v e d .

 

[Karl D]

Good luck soldering back a 6-pad component with solder already applied on the board without a heat gun. You'll have to melt at least two pads a time and that would be horrible

Having the solder already on the board makes it even easier to solder back.