Screw inspection = very bad day

If you get the Loctite 401 instant adhesive, the included tip is perfect for the job. My technique simply involved glueing about 2 inches at a time, while keeping the seam orientated so that the glue is pulled in by gravity. Immediately after applying the instant adhesive, wipe off any excess... Like within 5-8 seconds. I did get a little sloppy in some areas by applying too much glue and taking too long to wipe it off, but it's hardly noticeable. Once this stuff dries, it ain't comin' off.

What did you wipe the excess off with? Did you glue the whole thing or just the arms?
 
Thanks, silverstone, was about to ask the same. Did you stop at the back edge of the lights, or do the whole arm or entire body?
 
What did you wipe the excess off with? Did you glue the whole thing or just the arms?

A paper towel wiped it off well. I ended up glueing most of the perimeter of the shell. The only areas that didn't get any glue are the sections on the front arms where the stickers wrap over the seam and also the rounded portion that's on the outer most part of each arm. I focused on the flatter sections on the seam.
 
Last edited:
Sorry pal but do you see those two side by side screws that are completely away from your prop guard mounts? That's where the cracking is happening. Not, I repeat, not by the four motor mount screws. Once you have no holding power by those two screws, its only the tiny mini torx holding the arm together along with the other one at the arm base. Hence, a lot less resistance against the twisting on that arm. And while the guard mounts provide some strength to the four motor screw holes, those are completely independent of any top shell and bottom shell retention. So, no, those guard mounts are not the solution.
I didn't indicate that the the prop guard mounts were the solution, but they will reinforce the area where those cracks are occurring-- they are basically acting as a "splint" so to speak in preventing movement because they attached directly to the motor mounting holes and pinches sandwich the shell at the motor mounts. It absolutely reinforces the integrity of the shell at the motor locations. Not an optimal fix and not what the prop guard mounts are intended-- but if you want the keep the option of working on the inside of the shell until the structural issue is resolved. It is better than gluing the shell with CA because that will negate any future attempt to get inside the shell without further damage.

This is an obvious quality issue, that can only be solved be DJI-- Is it going to stop people from flying the P3's, --no--- Is it going to dismiss this discussion, probably not--- I only offered the suggestion to help, not to feed the dialog about the cracking issue.

If it helps, use it, if you don't feel like it helps, ignore it.:):)

I have cracks in mine, and will continue to use the Phantom until someone comes up with another fix.

Cheers
 
So guess what I got today everyone... My third P3P! Third time's a charm, right....? The local shop hear in the Seattle area treated me right. After seeing photos of the latest crack, they exchanged it no questions asked. They didn't even open the box before I left the store with the new one. I'm kinda shocked by how little they hassled me considering what I experienced with the previous seller.

I'd like everyone to know that I've adopted bighi's super glue technique to add a lot more structural rigidity. I noticed immediately after adding loctite 401 instant adhesive that the motors were way more secure and did not twist. Thank you bighi for your useful input in the matter. It will be interesting to see how long it lasts now that I've glued the seams before the first flight.

I attached this photo to show something that I believe to be a sign of good luck. Or maybe I've just become super proficient at removing them over the last twelve props....

A6DD29EF-921E-4654-A3B1-84BB024C8D25.jpg
Photoshopped...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Oso
There are two screws on each arm that hold the top shell to the bottom. In the video I posted earlier the inside screw on each rear arm has cracked.

I took my screw driver and checked all 8 screws. All seemed extremely tight when I tried to loosen them. I had to get my wrist into it to loosen them. Could this be the cause for the plastic cracking?

I was extremely careful when I did this. I then hand tightened each screw.
 
I'll admit I didn't read all the posts in this thread, so someone may have already voiced this opinion. Cyanoacrylate bonding agents are all very brittle, granted there are better and worse formulations. I'd opt for a high end epoxy first, not the hardware store kind but one with some flex like the kits Lee Valley sells. Aside from durability, if you wait until it thickens and properly prep the surface below, they do a great job of reinforcing. Add a mil or two to the problem areas. Gorilla Glue, though a different beast altogether, also provides more stress tolerance than cyanos. If you're dead set on the melting glues, find a kit with filler (basically just powdered plastic), and set a "scar" over the crack to help prevent reoccurrence. Rapidfix make an excellent kit.
 
Can you post a picture
The light strip has adhesive and "sticks" to the shell, I tried to stay centered on the seam all the way around. 4 rubber bands were included as part of the installation. I don't know if they are helping in any way, but after tonight's 4 flights I now have 11 hours on my P3P without any cracks.

20150702_045246000_iOS.jpg



The rubber band rides just near the end of the LED light......................

20150702_045415000_iOS.jpg



And the view of the rubber band from the top.......................

20150702_045309000_iOS.jpg



My Flight Record.................

flight.jpg


So, I'm just taking an educated guess really. I doubt that the rubber bands bind the shell nearly as well as the Loctite. I'll keep inspecting daily, though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bigdz
The light strip has adhesive and "sticks" to the shell, I tried to stay centered on the seam all the way around. 4 rubber bands were included as part of the installation. I don't know if they are helping in any way, but after tonight's 4 flights I now have 11 hours on my P3P without any cracks.

View attachment 23662


The rubber band rides just near the end of the LED light......................

View attachment 23663


And the view of the rubber band from the top.......................

View attachment 23664


My Flight Record.................

View attachment 23665

So, I'm just taking an educated guess really. I doubt that the rubber bands bind the shell nearly as well as the Loctite. I'll keep inspecting daily, though.
It seems like you have a crack near the screw on the right near the rubberband. I hope not. Am I just seeing things?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bigdz
It seems like you have a crack near the screw on the right near the rubberband. I hope not. Am I just seeing things?
I envy you young-uns with your good eyesight. I went back and looked it over as well as my old eyes can. I just can't get a good enough view of it to be sure. It could "possibly" be the start of a crack, I just cannot tell for sure.
 
It seems like you have a crack near the screw on the right near the rubberband. I hope not. Am I just seeing things?
You have eyes like a hawk, that is the start of a crack.
 
Are people glueing theirs before cracks even occur? Surely that will void the warranty? - Adam
 
Hi All, I'm a long time lurker but first time poster.

I seem to be having the same issues with my P3P, I've taken some shots and uploaded to Imgur for you to see.

I'm not really sure what to do, I've only owned the P3P for 30 days, I've never crashed it and have only flown it in more demanding conditions (windy) once or twice.

I've spoken with DJI about an RMA as I got this directly from them and they said they can collect it, check it and return it fixed but it will take 20 days from receipt in Germany (I'm in the UK) ....

Would a self fix gluing this survive the life of the phantom or should I send it off for repair? I do need to make one final flight tomorrow for a friend which I will do very gently - would you strongly advise against this?

All comments and help appreciated.
Paul

AENYmhz.jpg


i8QsK5q.jpg
 
That's why I'm checking regularly. I believe I read about others who had cracks almost from new. I wonder how many factories these things are made in, or how many different production lines there are in the various factories.

All it takes is for one torque setting to be out on one assembly machine for the issue to be thrown up. Maybe all the rest are ok, but I don't know; I'm just thinking out loud.

Imagine if there are 20 assembly lines - if one torque wrench is out, will the rest of the assembly lines also be out causing cracks? Maybe not. But mine is ok so far. If mine had cracks, I'd be cross too.
Hi All, I'm a long time lurker but first time poster.

I seem to be having the same issues with my P3P, I've taken some shots and uploaded to Imgur for you to see.

I'm not really sure what to do, I've only owned the P3P for 30 days, I've never crashed it and have only flown it in more demanding conditions (windy) once or twice.

I've spoken with DJI about an RMA as I got this directly from them and they said they can collect it, check it and return it fixed but it will take 20 days from receipt in Germany (I'm in the UK) ....

Would a self fix gluing this survive the life of the phantom or should I send it off for repair? I do need to make one final flight tomorrow for a friend which I will do very gently - would you strongly advise against this?

All comments and help appreciated.
Paul

AENYmhz.jpg


i8QsK5q.jpg
I think you will be safe. Did DJI offer to pay shipping on your unit or do you have to pay that yourself?
 
Ever since I posted that video a bunch of people online have reached out to me saying they are having the same issue. A fellow YouTuber posted this. Looks like his is cracking in the same exact locations and the same exact ways as mine.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Bigdz
Farmertml, in my opinion, in won't matter if you send it back and they put another replacement shell on your bird. Until DJI changes the mold, it will just crack again in short order. (Yes, I know DJI and representatives are doing the rope-a-dope numbers thing for now, but when so many experienced pilots who hand catch are having cracks in the same place, within a month/few hours of ownership, It's clear that there is a serious defect.) Once the defect is more widely publicized and owners know what to look for, it wouldn't surprise me to see extremely high failure rates in a few months time. DJI has strangely chosen to ignore this problem in multiple generations of phantoms and now has produced a shell that is paper thin in an area that is receiving maximum stress and twisting/rotational torque on the bird. DJI did a number of things right on the P3, but the shell issue and their systemic approach to customers after the sale, is not one of them. Their actions prove they simply don't care at this point. I don't think this will change until a viable alternative such as the Gopro quad enters the arena in 2016. (3DR clearly doesn't have the financial might or engineering expertise to compete.) When customers vote with their wallets to the tune of hundreds of millions, then I think you will see DJI "care" quite a bit.
 
I checked my P3 with 6 hours on it--mostly hand catch landings, and my P2 V+, thankfully no cracks on either at this point. Very concerning though. Will inspect closely every flight.
 

Recent Posts

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
143,094
Messages
1,467,602
Members
104,980
Latest member
ozmtl