RANGE? Immersion 600mw tx, with Spironets

mcmax20 said:


A pic of my setup, I'm really happy with it. Don't mind the mini iOSD & GS, they're velcro'd on but hold firm. I do this so I can take the GS off when I'm not using it. The foam on top of the GoPro is for when I have it in the case to stop it from moving around during transport.
I like your go pro foam idea ! I have a slew of issues with the go pro but you just made it one less, thanks.
 
mcmax20 said:
have the cloverleaf inline with the landing gear to the point where it is a 5th point to land on
Seriously mcmax20, using a cloverleaf as a 5th landing point is not going to do the cloverleaf or the TX any good. Can't see the plus of having to do an internal fit taking away structural plastic, hole in the belly and using it as a foot to land on.

Externally mounted, out the side and turned down seems to be cleaner to me. Only the transmitter wires up the hole designed for the purpose. No carving up of the shell. Several folks here are using it this way with no loss of FPV signal on a turn. Think that says it all IMHO.

Sent from Samsung S4 via Tapatalk
 
mcmax20 said:
Seriously guys, the best thing you can do is straight down somewhere at the middle of the body to have the cloverleaf inline with the landing gear to the point where it is a 5th point to land on, this will be below the gimbal. You can turn around without any interference at all; any side mount, regardless of direction, with not work as well. These are quadcopters, 90% of the time operated at a height higher than that of the pilot and need the antenna mounted underneath, not sideways.

I have mine mounted inside coming down and I can't say it is the best for summer (risk of overheating) because I haven't had the opportunity yet, but I do know that a cloverleaf coming down to the same height as the landing gear will be the best option possible; besides coming down below the landing gear - but that would be very hard to land in the conventional manner.

Just my $0.02, take it how you like! :ugeek:

If this setup gets you to 5km then I will agree.
The only issue I can see with that setup is the landing gear is blocking the antenna on both sides.
I think the antenna has to be totally clear of the Phantom for best results.
 
Agree. Even out to the side, and down, the signal is blocked by the body of the Phantom in certain turns-but, it's only momentarily, and you get used to when and were it will happen, and just avoid turning that directions.

When I "build" my Phantom 2-I will have the option of going straight down, out the back, or, out to the side, like I have on my Ph1.
So, I will experiment a bit.
I would not ever put the VTX inside the body of the Phantom. Have you touched those things after a long flight??!!!
 
I just got a right angle connector and going straight down. first good weather going to test. I have extended legs so I don't have any issue. why is his s long? i have the grey Spironets and they aren't that long? he have the Rx antenna on the Tx??
 
d4ddyo said:
I just got a right angle connector and going straight down. first good weather going to test. I have extended legs so I don't have any issue. why is his s long? i have the grey Spironets and they aren't that long? he have the Rx antenna on the Tx??

From what I've read there are 3 types of spironet cloverleaf antennas.
1. V1s with a longer Rx than Tx, I think one is black and the other grey. I don't know if they're SMA or RP-SMA.
2. V2s with Black Caps - SMA connectors, the same size, and usable for either Tx or Rx. These are the ones I have, nothing custom about the length you see there, that's how they come.
3. V2s with Grey Caps - RP-SMA connectors, the same size, and usable for either Tx or Rx.

I didn't expect my comments to be popular, I was just putting them out there because it works for me. The landing gear does not block the antenna feed because the bird is above you and the signal is coming more down than sideways. About the vTx heating up, I have touched it during and after operation and while it was quite warm I've never found it "untouchable" like some members. Before I mounted it inside I left it powered on for 30mins in the house and I could still hold it afterwards. Honestly I wasn't as worried about overheat as I was about interference from the battery or other electronics, but that hasn't been an issue at all. If done right this only puts a small hole the size of the threads in the belly which ends up being reinforced by the vTx itself anyways.

With this setup I have been out to 3000m @ 50-60m on multiple occasions and even though it could go further I don't have the interest for extreme range testing. Actually I was happy with 1 mile, the rest is just a bonus! I also usually catch land so its only on takeoff that the antenna may be in contact with the ground.

Sorry if my comments came off a bit harsh, the best thing you can do is experiment!
 
mcmax20 said:
d4ddyo said:
I just got a right angle connector and going straight down. first good weather going to test. I have extended legs so I don't have any issue. why is his s long? i have the grey Spironets and they aren't that long? he have the Rx antenna on the Tx??

From what I've read there are 3 types of spironet cloverleaf antennas.
1. V1s with a longer Rx than Tx, I think one is black and the other grey. I don't know if they're SMA or RP-SMA.
2. V2s with Black Caps - SMA connectors, the same size, and usable for either Tx or Rx. These are the ones I have, nothing custom about the length you see there, that's how they come.
3. V2s with Grey Caps - RP-SMA connectors, the same size, and usable for either Tx or Rx.

I didn't expect my comments to be popular, I was just putting them out there because it works for me. The landing gear does not block the antenna feed because the bird is above you and the signal is coming more down than sideways. About the vTx heating up, I have touched it during and after operation and while it was quite warm I've never found it "untouchable" like some members. Before I mounted it inside I left it powered on for 30mins in the house and I could still hold it afterwards. Honestly I wasn't as worried about overheat as I was about interference from the battery or other electronics, but that hasn't been an issue at all. If done right this only puts a small hole the size of the threads in the belly which ends up being reinforced by the vTx itself anyways.

With this setup I have been out to 3000m @ 50-60m on multiple occasions and even though it could go further I don't have the interest for extreme range testing. Actually I was happy with 1 mile, the rest is just a bonus! I also usually catch land so its only on takeoff that the antenna may be in contact with the ground.

Sorry if my comments came off a bit harsh, the best thing you can do is experiment!

To be honest, its not just the heat that bothers me, its the proximity to all the electronic stuff that would stop me putting the TX inside the shell.
 
mcmax20 said:
I didn't expect my comments to be popular, I was just putting them out there because it works for me .... Sorry if my comments came off a bit harsh, the best thing you can do is experiment!
I agree, by experiment is good and by comments and discussion too. And always if it works for you - be happy! We are all learning from each other and are works in progress in this Phantom thing :)

Sent from my Galaxy Note 8
 
I agree. the key is experimentation, but the common issue seems to be antenna configuration and placement . As for the Spironets, that must be version 1. because yes.. version 2 is smaller but the receiver side is longer. there is a difference on which you use where. They are labeled Rx and Tx and the Tx is longer at least in the grey. the color designates the polarity of the SMA connector. Rx has 4 leafs vs Tx has 3.
 
I don't know which version Sprironets I have-both are the exact same length, both have black caps, and red stalks. They are both SMA. The 1 on the aircraft is using an SMA to RP-SMA adapter, and so far, I've been quite happy with the results.
 
Quick question: For all those using the Immersionrc 600 and black pearl. Are you guys using the 7 ch BP made exclusively for IRC/fatshark or are you using the 32ch BP made for all other video transmitters? I just noticed there are 3 different versions out there, aimed at different vTx!!!!! :|
 
Karl666 said:
I still think the ultimate solution ( in my mind anyway ) is to have a sprung loaded CP sprionet or nimrod that deploys from underneath the craft as it lifts and retracts again under the weight of the phantom as it lands. The dome of the antenna would be visible in almost all positions.

Just saw this on the RC Groups forum, looks like the perfect setup for getting the antenna below the P2:
A 3d printed hinge bracket for the vtx
Cant find out where do get one though.
 

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2trickpony said:
Karl666 said:
I still think the ultimate solution ( in my mind anyway ) is to have a sprung loaded CP sprionet or nimrod that deploys from underneath the craft as it lifts and retracts again under the weight of the phantom as it lands. The dome of the antenna would be visible in almost all positions.

Just saw this on the RC Groups forum, looks like the perfect setup for getting the antenna below the P2:
A 3d printed hinge bracket for the vtx
Cant find out where do get one though.


Cool - I wonder if this is on a servo to drop down. Cant tell from the angle of the shot. Maybe you'll need to hover and pull it down. The reverse would apply on landing. If you find out where to get one I'd be interested. You got to love those 3D printers :)
 
Karl666 said:
2trickpony said:
Karl666 said:
I still think the ultimate solution ( in my mind anyway ) is to have a sprung loaded CP sprionet or nimrod that deploys from underneath the craft as it lifts and retracts again under the weight of the phantom as it lands. The dome of the antenna would be visible in almost all positions.

Just saw this on the RC Groups forum, looks like the perfect setup for getting the antenna below the P2:
A 3d printed hinge bracket for the vtx
Cant find out where do get one though.


Cool - I wonder if this is on a servo to drop down. Cant tell from the angle of the shot. Maybe you'll need to hover and pull it down. The reverse would apply on landing. If you find out where to get one I'd be interested. You got to love those 3D printers :)

Looking at it closely I would say that it clicks into place and may need to be manually released so that means a take-off by hand.
 
2trickpony said:
Looking at it closely I would say that it clicks into place and may need to be manually released so that means a take-off by hand.

Also, I think the release would be better facing the other way so that the antenna would be pushed back into a downward position when travelling forward. When I get some time I might have a go at trying to get some sort of downward deployment setup working. Admittedly I'm fairly happy with my setup at the moment but its good to play :)

There are a few people here that have mounted the antenna underneath and almost flush with the landing gear that have reported good video. There must still be potential for loss of signal if craft was accelerating or banking hard at speed because the tilt angle would hide the top of the antenna behind the craft or its payload i.e gimbal, gopro etc.

An antenna below the landing gear might also benefit long distance FPV at lower altitudes where the angles are narrower
 
anybody fly from inside their car?

Anybody tried flying, while sitting inside your car??
I did-worked great!!! Had my monitor/receiver sitting on the dash with the antenna's against the front windshield, sat in the passenger seat, with the door open. Flew out over 700M @ 30M with FPV goggles, and maintained good signal and control.
Oh, and the remote was pointed 90 degree's away from the aircraft, was on my lap, and blocked partially by the dash.

Flew back, over the top of the car, and flew 180 degree's from my position in the car, out to about 365 meters, still with good video and no loss of RC.

Now I know some people have flown from their cars before....when it's cold, etc. But for me, this was my first time.
You see, in Arizona, shade is at a premium. So, I just happen to drive my Shade with me. Chair-no problem, I have an SUV, got plenty. Air-conditioner-check...got that too. Works great, even while idling.
So, when it's hits 120 degree's this summer-I'll be sitting in my SUV with the A/C on, with my goggles on, flying!!!

Probably a better idea is to put the FPV receiver/monitor outside, on a tripod up high, and just put the goggle cord through a crack in the window.
I'm amazed that I never lost RC contact with the aircraft. I did get some break-up in the video-more than if I was outside with the monitor on a tripod. But, for anything within about 400 meters-in any direction; I think I got this ;)
 
That is something I have to try. Here in Alberta I can find shade often enough but in the winter having a source of heat is quite valuable. I've flown in -20c and while the P2 didn't skip a beat, my hands got way too cold to make me want to do it regularly. I hope It works as well as you've experienced. I just assumed a steel roof and other interference would make that impossible, that or I would have to hang half my body out the window which would defeat the purpose!

I assume you lift off away from the SUV, and then walk back so the compass doesn't get screwed up from taking off from the roof or hood?
 
Is this not getting more than a little off topic?

Sent from my Galaxy Note 8
 
thongbong said:
Quick question: For all those using the Immersionrc 600 and black pearl. Are you guys using the 7 ch BP made exclusively for IRC/fatshark or are you using the 32ch BP made for all other video transmitters? I just noticed there are 3 different versions out there, aimed at different vTx!!!!! :|
Can I bump myself? I just did :D
 
mcmax20 said:
That is something I have to try. Here in Alberta I can find shade often enough but in the winter having a source of heat is quite valuable. I've flown in -20c and while the P2 didn't skip a beat, my hands got way too cold to make me want to do it regularly. I hope It works as well as you've experienced. I just assumed a steel roof and other interference would make that impossible, that or I would have to hang half my body out the window which would defeat the purpose!

I assume you lift off away from the SUV, and then walk back so the compass doesn't get screwed up from taking off from the roof or hood?
I put the Phantom on my Helipad, about 20 feet in front of the SUV, and lift off and land there.

And it isn't necessarily off topic. Nobody has mentioned the range of their set-up, while sitting in a car. And, if you live in an area like me, that has virtually no shade, and summer temps over 120 degree's-this becomes important. Same with the cold.
Yes, you can sit in your car, with the heater on, and fly!!!! Try it sometime. Don't launch from any part OF the car......that will screw up your compass calibration. I've seen a video of a guy that launched from the bed of his truck, and flight lasted about 18 seconds, until he lost control and it crashed.....compass calibration out of whack.

So, I would be curious; I've only gone 715M@30, and turned around-but maintained full RC and video. Anyone else go further?
 

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