Pro 3 pinched motor wire with pic

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#1
I'm working on a friends pro 3. I fixed everything and it Flys great. I was ready to give it back to him I noticed the top cover wasn't in line in some places. I removed it and noticed a motor wire was pinched. Should I mess with it (tape) or just push it to the side and put the cover back on and give it back to him? I do see wire exposed at the pinch spots. Here's a pic.
 

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#2
Personnally, i would cut the wire, strip the ends, put on some heat-shrink tubing, solder the ends then shrink the tubing over the solder joint. Don't want any possibly damaged conductor breaking and having the AC fall from the sky.
 
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#3
DJI motor wires are hard to splice. They coat the wire from end to end under the insulation, and the best way to repair a damaged wire is not by splicing it but to replace it. If the wire has frayed, you can try to apply some solder to it, but it might not stick.

If I saw a motor wire like that during a repair, I would replace the whole motor.
 
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#4
Carefully remove the outer sheath- if the individual strands look to be in good nick just put a bit of electrical tape over it. Wont be an issue.

As had been said cutting around the bad section and soldering together is a pain as the individual strands are extensions of the magnet wire forming the motor windings (individually insulated).
 
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#5
Am I wrong in concluding that each insulated wire is a single strand of copper? If so, I would not do anything but move the wire. If you are paranoid, you might want to only cut the insulation and inspect the wire.
 
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#6
Am I wrong in concluding that each insulated wire is a single strand of copper? If so, I would not do anything but move the wire. If you are paranoid, you might want to only cut the insulation and inspect the wire.
You are concluding correctly.... They don’t need to be insulated from each other so abrasion of the coating is no issue- an open circuit would be a problem though. You would hear that with the motor running though, if the motor speed controller didn’t throw an error (there would be a different back EMF voltage from 2 phases and probably a speed discontinuance even with only slight loading).
 
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#7
Thanks for all the input I value everyone's advice. I got her out for a full battery fflight. Really stable after landing I felt the motor it was hotter than the others. So I will replace it to be safe.
 
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#8
Update when I went to replace the motor I tried to straighten the crimped wire and it broke right off. So now I'm thinking I should of NEVER DONE THAT TEST FLIGHT!!! Especially here my neighborhood. Would losing one leg of a motor result in a uncontrollable crash.
 
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#9
Update when I went to replace the motor I tried to straighten the crimped wire and it broke right off. So now I'm thinking I should of NEVER DONE THAT TEST FLIGHT!!! Especially here my neighborhood. Would losing one leg of a motor result in a uncontrollable crash.
Probably....
 
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#11
how many wires inside the sheath broke? How many in total (individual wires) inside each outer insulation sheath?
There's only three wires feeding the motor. The yellow one was the pinched wire. It broke as soon as I started messing with it. Its one solid wire to the motor in fact it goes straight into the motor as a winding.
 
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#12
Thanks again for every ones answers. Remember keep those wires away from screw holes when replacing the top cover.
 
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#13
There's only three wires feeding the motor. The yellow one was the pinched wire. It broke as soon as I started messing with it. Its one solid wire to the motor in fact it goes straight into the motor as a winding.
There should be two wires in each sheath. The individual wires (6 total) being, as you say, continuations of each end of the three wires forming the sequentially wound field coils. Connected as supplied gives you a delta connection, there could be joined with three connected and the motor driven as a star configuration.
 

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