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Picture problems

Discussion in 'Standard' started by Cobra!1, Jun 10, 2018.

  1. Cobra!1

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    Pretty sure I am doing something wrong and hope you can help
    Flying phantom 3 standard, with I pad air that works fine.
    Lately when viewing thru the camera,anything that has a bright reflection white roof,metal objects,etc. appears on my I pad as zebra stripes.(best way to describe it) however if I take a picture these strips do not show up. This has just recently been a problem. No upgrades to drone or I pad have been done. Camera settings are in auto. Is there a setting or adjustment I need or do to keep this from happening?againI see it on I pad but if taking a pic it does’t show up and picture turns out fine.
    What am I missing?
    Thanks
     
  2. Fly Dawg

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    This is an overexposure warning from the app........
     
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  3. jefmo

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    You can turn it off in the settings if you want, but it can be useful.
     
  4. Cobra!1

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    Just to circle back around. Yes, once I turned off the overexposure warning setting in go app, in the camera settings, zebra stripes went away. Thanks to all who replied
     
  5. Cobra!1

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    Another question, turning off the over exposure warning took care of the stripes on tablet. Today I flew and took pics of a white roof in sunlight. Serious over exposure in the picture. Does the over exposure feature when turned on let camera compensate to not over expose a photo and when off allows for over exposure? or am I doing something else wrong? Have camera settings including white balance in auto. Sorry for novice questions. Not a camera savvy drone flyer here. Got into dji drones as another r/c hobby but now starting to explore camera features it has
    Thanks
     
  6. Fly Dawg

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    Auto for the most part works ok, but if you are looking for much better images you will need to know a little photography as simple as ISO, Shutter speed etc....to compensate for various lighting environments. Otherwise for the most part as I said auto will be ok, but you will need to adjust the exposure. The Phantom has a fixed aperature, so you have to compensate for that.
     
  7. LarBear360

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    The zebras are warnings only. The adjustment is up to you. The only way your camera can tone down the exposure is to decrease the ISO (100 is the lowest) and then compensate with shutter speed. The auto settings will do this for you. However, if that roof does not take up a majority of the frame, the exposure will be based on the other lighting it sees throughout the frame. I think there is an exposure box you can turn on and move around so the camera knows what to do.

    Also consider some ND filters which will help reduce the amount of light entering the camera.
     
  8. Meta4

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    On default settings, the camera gets an average exposure for the whole image.
    With average images, that's fine but when part of the image is much brighter than the rest, it's up to the photographer to go beyond average settings.
    One option is to use spot metering and meter for the part of the image you want to be properly exposed.
    And there are other options.
    1st ... ND filters won't be any help.
    They would reduce the amount of light across the whole frame, the camera would compensate by using a longer exposure and the roof would still be much brighter than the rest of the scene.
    ND filters are no use at all for still photography on a drone unless you have a particular reason to want to use a slow shutter speed.

    2nd .. there are a couple of ways to adjust exposure values.
    The simplest is to use the exposure compensation feature to set the camera to shoot over or under what the metering says.
    In this screenshot where I'm getting ready to shoot, I know that the bow wave of the ship will be a lot brighter than the rest of the scene and I want to prevent it being burnt out.
    You can see I have set the exposure compensation to under expose 0.7 stops (EV-0.7).
    [​IMG]
    I'm also using another trick and shooting a bracket of three shots at three different exposure settings to maximise my chance of getting something I can work with.
    That gives me results like this with 3 of each shot and I can choose which is going to be best for me..
    [​IMG]
     
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  9. LarBear360

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    I bracket just about everything with my Canon DSLR. Completely forgot about that option! Probably the best option.
     
  10. Cobra!1

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    Wow great info. Know I have a little more knowledge of what camera settings do so I will play around with those and see what results I get. But yes, being an old r/c guy that flys planes,copters and now drones starting to discover the benefits of the hi quality camera on the p3 and realize my photography education is lacking behind that of the drone lol.
    Appreciate the advice as usual.
    Thanks
     
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  11. Cobra!1

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    Used some of the settings you guys suggested and wow what difference. What I learned, leaving camera settings in auto is not going to give you the best picture of what this camera is capable of. Second educate ones self on basic photography, camera settings and what they do. Notice there are plenty of how too’s on how to fly P3 in different flight modes which are great. Now if there were tutorials on how to use the camera and it’s settings, that would be great.
    Thanks again for those that helped
     
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  12. LarBear360

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    Lots of videos on YouTube. Just have to look. In the meantime, here's one of the better articles I bookmarked when I first started flying. 8 Tips for Better Drone Photography -
     
  13. Cobra!1

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    Great article, helped a lot in explaining camera functions to us novice photographers
    I tried playing around with different settings while in flight and think I’m starting to get a feel for what they do.
    One thing I learned is for someone who wants to take pics and send them via e mail or text. Do not use the “raw” setting.otherwise pic/video will need to be edited before sending. Editing part I haven’t figured out yet lol.
    Thanks
     
  14. LarBear360

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    If all you need is point & shoot to e-mail to friends, just use JPEG. RAW is for those that like to go back and play with the settings after the fact. RAW contains minimally processed data, hence the large file.

    If you want to dabble around in processing, down load trial versions of Adobe Lightroom and/or Adobe Photoshop Elements. Elements is a scaled down consumer-friendly version of Photoshop.

    Most importantly, continue flying and trying out different settings! Understanding your settings will prevent future mistakes and possible disappointment.
     
  15. stuka75

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    I turn the gimbal down so that just a hint of bright sky is on the horizon. This minimizes the amount of bright light hitting the sensors in auto mode.
     
  16. Cobra!1

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    Great advice
    Thanks
     
  17. Cobra!1

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    Another question, noticed I took a few photos with the “raw” setting on and can not send these pics via e mail , text. How do I retrieve these pictures? Again thanks for your help
     
  18. LarBear360

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    The RAW or .DNG are just heavy in data and as such, many e-mail programs reject the files due to their size.

    Set the camera to shoot JPEG if you intend to e-mail them. For those you have shot in RAW, you will need to convert them to JPG. Most photo editing programs enable you to export to JPG. If not, lots of free converters out there.
     
  19. Cobra!1

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    Thanks will try that
     
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