Phantom 3 batt charging to 4.3v per cell

[NoBiffBetter]

Is this normal? I know lipos should never really exceed 4.20 Iv had some at 4.22 but never on at 4.30 -4.31v

Is this bad? I only have one battery so I can't tell you how others charge. But I was curious what yours full charge too. It's only been charged about 12 times, it was at about 4390 mah it goes up and down slightly every charge. Sometimes I get 4420 "total mah" sometimes I get 4380 "total mah" I just assume this vary is normal depending on how dead the batt was when I charged it to full.

I'm using the stock p3 charger.

Lastly, how does the batt % work.. It seems that it gives you the % of batt life remaining on the main screen based on the mah, cuz since I was not at 4480, it said I was at about 97-98% full.. So at 4.3v per cell, there's no way it's getting this %age reading from only the voltage alone. My guess is it goes off how much mah is In the pack when the drone starts up


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[ferraript]

it's normal
total voltage at 100% should really be 17.2 V
if it is bad for batteries, well, it's hard to say
but people use Phantoms for years and it looks like DJI did set it right

 

[flyNfrank]

Is this normal? I know lipos should never really exceed 4.20 Iv had some at 4.22 but never on at 4.30 -4.31v

Is this bad? I only have one battery so I can't tell you how others charge. But I was curious what yours full charge too. It's only been charged about 12 times, it was at about 4390 mah it goes up and down slightly every charge. Sometimes I get 4420 "total mah" sometimes I get 4380 "total mah" I just assume this vary is normal depending on how dead the batt was when I charged it to full.

I'm using the stock p3 charger.

Lastly, how does the batt % work.. It seems that it gives you the % of batt life remaining on the main screen based on the mah, cuz since I was not at 4480, it said I was at about 97-98% full.. So at 4.3v per cell, there's no way it's getting this %age reading from only the voltage alone. My guess is it goes off how much mah is In the pack when the drone starts up


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You may want to view the AB Log data located on the microSD card and see what battery firmware you current have. I can tell you the battery values are not real world. Not many know this but a little over a year ago the actual battery values were fudged. It was done in the manner that there is actually more charge in the battery then what you see displayed. The reason was to make the batteries to run out of power sooner then they actually do. There is nothing you can do about it since these are smart batteries packed with their own electronics located in the top of each battery. So an example of what else takes place is, when you see something like 3.70 volts in one of the battery cells, it is actually 3.85 volts. Now that is not the exact value, but just an example as what changing has taken place. I tried to figure out what the value change percentage actually was, but it was possible for me as the propulsion system and temp now figures into the program that drives the battery.

The one way around all of this is to upgrade to a two battery setup.

 

[NoBiffBetter]

So your saying that the values are lower or higher than the actually battery is showed on the app?

So what I should do, is see what the app tells me, say it says it's at 4.3v per cell.. If I just hook up my voltmeter and check the over all output, then divide that by 4- I should get the read true reading, as long as the cells are balanced which I have no doubt that they are.. And then I can see if the app is really truly "fudged" or not.. Or whether it is incorrect.. Maybe I will try that.


Also the drone is about a year old and I have never updated the firmware cuz of horror story's. The drone has never failed me and flys great.. It says it needs a battery update, a controller update, and ac update, and a gimbal update.. What do you think I should do? I just figured if it ain't broke don't fix it sorta thing.. But maybe I should update??


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[With The Birds]

The packs contain HV LiPO cells, can safely charge to 4.35V per cell i.e. 17.4V at full charge for pack.

 

[NoBiffBetter]

Great! Cuz that's more like what Iv been seeing. What's HV stand for? And I figured it had to be different from a normal 4s lipo because on the p3 pack it says 15.2v where as a normal 4s lipo it says 14.8v.. Is this why? I always wonders why the p3 4s pack had more "volts" labeled on it than a tipicial normal 4s pack.. Maybe that's why? Also maybe it's why it says "high performance lipo" on the pack where as a normal 4s doesn't?


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[NoBiffBetter]

when I try to change my p3 batt using a venom charge cord through my venom duo pro charger, it charges the batt to 4.5v per cell... But this only says that in the dji go app.. I got worried and immediately booted up my p3 and drew the voltage back down to what 4.2v.. What I thought was normal. But I never checked it on a volt meter, I wonder if it was actually that high, or if it was actually slightly lower, like 4.2 or 4.3v instead.. As mentioned above said the dji go app isn't that accurate for the exact voltage per cell .. So I wonder if it was fine when it read 4.5v.. If that's the case then I'll keep charging it that way. Only cuz it takes less time, I can charge more than one p3 batt at once, and lastly if I wanna store or discharge the batt, I can do it though the venom charger instead of having to run my batt In the quad or wait for the batt to auto discharge.. So there are a lot of benifits to using an aftermarket charger if I can figure this all out. And if I can find out for sure or not it's ok to do


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[With The Birds]

HV= high voltage.

 

[flyNfrank]

So your saying that the values are lower or higher than the actually battery is showed on the app?

So what I should do, is see what the app tells me, say it says it's at 4.3v per cell.. If I just hook up my voltmeter and check the over all output, then divide that by 4- I should get the read true reading, as long as the cells are balanced which I have no doubt that they are.. And then I can see if the app is really truly "fudged" or not.. Or whether it is incorrect.. Maybe I will try that.


Also the drone is about a year old and I have never updated the firmware cuz of horror story's. The drone has never failed me and flys great.. It says it needs a battery update, a controller update, and ac update, and a gimbal update.. What do you think I should do? I just figured if it ain't broke don't fix it sorta thing.. But maybe I should update??


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It would be wise to know what firmware you had in each device. Something like that is extremely important on my end. I would be so nervous not knowing if I had the firmware combo known for allowing the aircraft to drop out of the sky. If you have everything powered up to the point of starting the motors(do not start motors!), you should be able to access all the firmware details which would be the GOapp, AirCraft, and Remote Controller, from with in the GOapp menu. You mentioned something about a Gimbal update and I'm not familiar with that. As for the AirCraft firmware, if you are at 1.4.1 or below, then you are in great shape with a ton of possible options. However, you most definitely will not want to be on version 1.2.6 as it was corrupt with gimbal and vps issue that were not dealt with until v1.3.2. Btw, if your drone came off the production line a little over a year ago then your drone probably has v1.4.1.

You also mentioned dividing the total battery amount by 4. That's not going to do much for you. It would be best to compare the amount with what amount the app displays at shutdown. Just know that it is common for the battery to some recover volts after sitting a short time.

 

[NoBiffBetter]

Yah I know lipos do recover after sitting, it will go up a little voltage per cell once it cools.. I thought you said that the go app is not accurate as far as voltage and batt % goes.. That's why I was saying I could take a volt meter and average out the total voltage by 4.. Also I have been flying the aircraft for awhile now and she has flown great.

App version is 3.1.0

Aircraft version 1.5.30+

Remote controller 1.6.0

Under overall status, on the drop menu where it shows if your compass and IMU and all that is normal or not, it says "your craft requires new firmware" .. Or something along that line.. And once I click on that, it says this..

Remote controller requires upgrade

Camera requires upgrade

Aircraft requires upgrade

Battery requires upgrade

In that exact order for everything I have listed.

I am not new to Rc, or lipos, or electronics, and have owned a few lower model drones in my past.. But dji is totally new to me, I already been learning a ton about them.. But one thing I need a lot of brushing up on us things like the firmware upgrades and such like that, so any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for your time man.



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[NoBiffBetter]

Yah I know lipos do recover after sitting, it will go up a little voltage per cell once it cools.. I thought you said that the go app is not accurate as far as voltage and batt % goes.. That's why I was saying I could take a volt meter and average out the total voltage by 4.. Also I have been flying the aircraft for awhile now and she has flown great.

App version is 3.1.0

Aircraft version 1.5.30+

Remote controller 1.6.0

Under overall status, on the drop menu where it shows if your compass and IMU and all that is normal or not, it says "your craft requires new firmware" .. Or something along that line.. And once I click on that, it says this..

Remote controller requires upgrade

Camera requires upgrade

Aircraft requires upgrade

Battery requires upgrade

In that exact order for everything I have listed.

I am not new to Rc, or lipos, or electronics, and have owned a few lower model drones in my past.. But dji is totally new to me, I already been learning a ton about them.. But one thing I need a lot of brushing up on us things like the firmware upgrades and such like that, so any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for your time man.



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Btw this drone may not even be a year old, I just assumed it was close.. I have never touched the fw since I got it. I bought it brand new off a guy who purchased the wrong drone , he got the p3a when he thought he orderd the p4a.. In my case it worked out cuz the box was never opened and he sold it to me for 450$!!

But he said the reason he had to sell it and not just return it was cuz he waited too long to return the drone so dji or wherever he got it from would no longer accept a return. So that's how I ended up with it and why it was still sealed in the box.

As far as how old, like I said I was just guessing around a year, but it very well could have been purchased with in the last half a year? Give or take


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[NoBiffBetter]

And I don't see why compairing the voltages I get when reading direct power with my volt meter, then deciding by 4.. AFTER a full charge.. Not after I drain the pack.. Then compairing that to the dji app to see how close the apps reading is on the voltage per cell vs. what I got with my volt meter would be far off.. That's all I was saying.. I was curious to (if the app was really that incorrect) on the voltage readings.. That if I could just simply take a reading with my meter then Divide it by 4.. (After the pack is fully charged /balanced.. Then writing that down, then stick the pack into the drone fire it up and see what the app read out is per.cell. And see how close the two are.. This will tell me whether or not the app is actually correct, or if it's just "fudged" numbers put togeher by dji, more like an estimate. As mentioned above ..


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[NoBiffBetter]

It would be wise to know what firmware you had in each device. Something like that is extremely important on my end. I would be so nervous not knowing if I had the firmware combo known for allowing the aircraft to drop out of the sky. If you have everything powered up to the point of starting the motors(do not start motors!), you should be able to access all the firmware details which would be the GOapp, AirCraft, and Remote Controller, from with in the GOapp menu. You mentioned something about a Gimbal update and I'm not familiar with that. As for the AirCraft firmware, if you are at 1.4.1 or below, then you are in great shape with a ton of possible options. However, you most definitely will not want to be on version 1.2.6 as it was corrupt with gimbal and vps issue that were not dealt with until v1.3.2. Btw, if your drone came off the production line a little over a year ago then your drone probably has v1.4.1.

You also mentioned dividing the total battery amount by 4. That's not going to do much for you. It would be best to compare the amount with what amount the app displays at shutdown. Just know that it is common for the battery to some recover volts after sitting a short time.

I posted up my firmware and all the data you were asking me about.. Any help with this would greatly be appreciated. One thing I have not learned much about yet is firmware and what about it, how it all works as far as needing to match eachother, and if I should actually update it or not. The drone flys amazing like I stated before.. But the doesn't mean I'm possibly missing out on something pretty Important that may help save my drone from a crash or error in the future


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