P3A 2.7K

[Nejkoy]

Hello

Today was the first time I really tried 2.7k on my P3A. I was always using 1080p 60FPS. I noticed that also when I was flying straight forward not rotating, picture is not smooth. I know its 30FPS, but I think it should be better. Its like it would be flickering. Would this be better if I will be using ND filter? Any other recommendations?

 

[Sinisalo]

ND filter is all you need to smooth it out, cheers!

 

[Nejkoy]

Then this is really big difference? 1080p 60fps is smooth like a butter

 

[DaveB68]

I usually shoot in 1080p 60 also. Tried 2.7k and also find it a bit jittery and that's with an ND8. Gonna stick to 1080 lol.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[Nejkoy]

OK, this is completely different answer, so ND is not for fixing the problem.

 

[Reed L]

OK, this is completely different answer, so ND is not for fixing the problem.

so ND is not for fixing the problem - nope. If it looks jittery is may because of the software on the pc. My 4K looks jittery straight off the sd card in the mov format, so I convert it to H264 first before editing and it smooths right out.

 

[Nejkoy]

Maybe is a software yes, hardware I think shouldn't be a problem. You add it to premiere and export to H264?

 

[Ed209]

why not just record in H264 to begin with?

 

[LuvMyTJ]

All depends what you are using to edit/display it and if the camera settings are correct. Auto settings are usually not your best friend. If you machine is not up to the task you'll run into issues. You could try the .MP4 file format instead. Either way they are both the H264 wrapped in different packages.

 

[Malakai]

Its probably because you are capturing at 24fps but with a high shutter speed that causes the jittery look you are describing. If you want to capture at 2.7k 24fps and have it look good you need to be in manual mode and set the shutter speed to 50 and ISO 200. Turn on the histogram in settings and point your camera so the horizon is in the middle of the screen. Then use ND filters to get the balance between the bright parts and the dark parts. You need to use iso 200 because this gives you wiggle room to adjust for brightness/darkness while in the air by flicking between iso 100 and 400. The rest is just experimentation to learn how to get the best results. Personally i would recommend using a variable ND filter. It makes it easier to adjust and get the right exposure. This is difficult if you have fixed ND filters because you have to stack them.
This process will produce a more cinematic look. If you want the action cam smooth effect or want to slow the footage down later use 1080p 60fps

Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots mobile app

 

[alokbhargava]

That's true. ISO, FPS and shutter speed play the major role. ND filter plays the role of aperture control to reduce the light so that you can use effective ISO, FPS and Shutter speed.