Filters

[Andy9]

The most effective is CPL filter at 40-70 degree left or right from the sun. It cuts a polarizing light reflecting from the bright objects so the best use would be to cutoff the reflexes of the surface of the water. And you can do more dramatic sky if there are some clouds on it. The sky will be more dark in contrast to the clouds. Also useful to improve contrasts of far object (mountains etc.).
For the best effect the rotating ring on CPL filter should be adjustable from the remote. Maybe in the future, but now you must rotate the drone with CPL on it and make the circle and rotate the CPL at the same time while you are looking at the display and see at which direction the effect is the best. Leave the filter in desired position and fly the drone into the right location to get that effect.

 

[bsartist]

With the exception of going for creamy water motion, they are a waste of time and counterproductive to good image-making. If you want less light, stop down the aperture or shorten the shutter time.

I thought maintaining SS at 2x frame rate only helped in certain situations with certain types of movement. I went up once on a sunny day without an ND and had to crank up the SS on my video. There was an unexpected negative effect. Blade shadows were noticeable. (Not blades themselves. Just the shadow cast on the lens). This never happened with the 1/60 SS I use normally (with an ND)

 

[jephoto]

With the exception of going for creamy water motion, they are a waste of time and counterproductive to good image-making. If you want less light, stop down the aperture or shorten the shutter time.

Well- that's not completely correct - talking about best image quality. Every lens has a sweet spot in Aperture where you get the balance of depth of field and best sharpness from center of the lens. For a P3P - the aperture is moot as it's a fixed 2.8 - but for P4's Mavic's & up that have adjustable apertures the best sharpness of those lenses is around ƒ4.5-5.6
ƒ8.0 if probably fine too, but beyond that- ƒ11-16 you are getting Diffraction, which can soften the fine details.
How much will that matter? Depends on how you want to use the photos.
For Web- hardly noticeable. For large prints- makes a difference.
Here' are a couple links - one of many, many, online about this:
What Is Lens Diffraction?

How to Choose the Sharpest Aperture

photographylife.com

As far as for video - most serious videographers who want a smooth Cinematic look - try to keep the shutter speed at 2x the frame rate - basically for Drones means either 1/50 or 1/60th sec.
Doesn't mean you can't do video at 1/4000th of a second, you can, , but it will look a bit strange.

That's why ND's and Polorizers are a useful tool. Among other reasons like glare or even reflections on vegetation

 

[JeffreyS]

Yes. Modern lenses have less diffraction than lenses from the 70’s and 80’s. If this is important to someone then they can certainly shoot more like F8 or less as I do as well, and still not need a ND filter to get there. The point is that on a moving or hovering drone camera you need fast shutter speeds for sharpness and NDs compromise that.

 

[bsartist]

Yes. Modern lenses have less diffraction than lenses from the 70’s and 80’s. If this is important to someone then they can certainly shoot more like F8 or less as I do as well, and still not need a ND filter to get there. The point is that on a moving or hovering drone camera you need fast shutter speeds for sharpness and NDs compromise that.

Sounds like you are talking about still photography right? For videography I see a difference when I go with a fast shutter speed. And not in a good way.

 

[JeffreyS]

Sounds like you are talking about still photography right? For videography I see a difference when I go with a fast shutter speed. And not in a good way.

Yes I was. And we agree about video.

 

[Andy9]

If you not aim your cam all the time straight down, then you'll get some sky in the picture as well. If the sky is very bright it will most probably ruin your picture as everything under the sky will be underexposed. The cure is graduated filters which are partly dimmed in upper third while other part of the filter is normally translucent. This darken a bit the upper part of the picture where the sky is supposed to be and the colors of the ground will be much better. You can get differently graded graduation. Less is usually better.

 

[Melvoid]

With a polarizing filter, I usually just hold it up and rotate it, noting the position of the mark. Then I put it on the camera with the mark in that same position. Works better pointing away from the sun, obviously.

 

[bsartist]

With a polarizing filter, I usually just hold it up and rotate it, noting the position of the mark. Then I put it on the camera with the mark in that same position. Works better pointing away from the sun, obviously.

Polarizers generally have the most effect at 90° from the sun. Not directly toward or away.