Filters

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Hi all , just received a filter set for my P3S and primarily got it for the polaroid filter which I assume is the CPL filter .
Wondering if anyone can give me the reader’s digest version of what the others are for and what they achieve?
Uv = ultra violet . Application?
ND4 = ?
ND8 = ?

Cheers Al
 
Hi all , just received a filter set for my P3S and primarily got it for the polaroid filter which I assume is the CPL filter .
Wondering if anyone can give me the reader’s digest version of what the others are for and what they achieve?
Uv = ultra violet . Application?
ND4 = ?
ND8 = ?

Cheers Al
UV filter ... just like the one that your camera came with - mostly just to protect the lens
ND4 cuts 75% of the light
ND8 cuts 87.5% of the light
 
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What would the light reducing filters be used for ?
They are useless for still photography with a drone, unless you have a particular reason to want to force a slower shutter speed.
Some video shooters use them to force a slower shutter speed than the camera controls would give them.
 
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I use nd filters on my regular camera to get those slow shutter speed shots like shooting falls in rivers to get that Smokey looking appearance to the water for example but on my drone I just use one to cut down brighotness on those really sunny days. I’m sure someone here will give you the more technical terms for using them.
 
If you are doing video, for a good video you need the shutter speed to be twice the frame speed. If not, the video doesn't look right in most situations. Frame speed 30, you want the shutter speed 60. It is easy achieved with nd filters on a bright day.
 
I'm no photo buff ...

On a bright sunny day or if a lot of snow / ice ..... I use an ND4 or even the 8 to cut back the sharpness of bright sections ... it seems to increase contrast as well.

But on a dull day - it can really dull the results ....

If you have bought the NEEWER set .... with the push on holder ... there is a trick you will not read about ...

The filters can be screwed into each other .... so you can in fact mount 4 ... 8 ... and a combined 4+8 .....

I bought the NEEWER set for my P3S originally ... then got a P3P and found that they fit fine and I don't even remove the OEM lens on my P3P ... never had any trouble ....
 
If you are doing video, for a good video you need the shutter speed to be twice the frame speed. If not, the video doesn't look right in most situations. Frame speed 30, you want the shutter speed 60. It is easy achieved with nd filters on a bright day.
That is great advice. Thank you for posting that :)
 
I use nd filters on my regular camera to get those slow shutter speed shots like shooting falls in rivers to get that Smokey looking appearance to the water for example but on my drone I just use one to cut down brighotness on those really sunny days. I’m sure someone here will give you the more technical terms for using them.

With the exception of going for creamy water motion, they are a waste of time and counterproductive to good image-making. If you want less light, stop down the aperture or shorten the shutter time.
 
On a bright sunny day or if a lot of snow / ice ..... I use an ND4 or even the 8 to cut back the sharpness of bright sections ... it seems to increase contrast as well.


Sorry, but that is incorrect. Nothing to do at all with sharpness or contrast.
 
Sorry, but that is incorrect. Nothing to do at all with sharpness or contrast.


As I said - I am no camera buff and said it tongue in cheek ... what I posted is what effect I see in my videos with / without ...

Right or wrong reason ... I'm not really fussed ..
 
As I said - I am no camera buff and said it tongue in cheek ... what I posted is what effect I see in my videos with / without ...

Right or wrong reason ... I'm not really fussed ..

No problem! I'm a pro just sharing the truth to help out....happy flying!
 
The subject of adjusting camera settings ... its all out of my league as an 'instamatic camera user' ... I have a DSLR - but like many of the functions on my RC tx's - hardly use the fancier settings ...

My adjustments on my P3P boil down to filter ON or OFF ... and watch the screen on my Tablet when adjusting the histogram by the scroll wheel .. rest is a jumble to me !!
 
Thanks guys , as I said at the start, I really bought the set for the polaroid filter ( and perhaps the UV filt if it provides lens protection)
I’m mainly shooting over shallow water (esturine environment)looking to see below the surface .
Cheers Al
 
The set seems to fit quite nicely although it is quite heavy even with just one of the lenses on . With the drone powered off it makes the camera flop to the downward position .
Hoping it wont cause gimbal motor problems down the track .
Cheers Al
 
( and perhaps the UV filt if it provides lens protection)
Your drone's camera already has a UV filter - the "window" that covers the lens.
There's no need to fit a second one.

Thanks guys , as I said at the start, I really bought the set for the polaroid filter ( and perhaps the UV filt if it provides lens protection)
I’m mainly shooting over shallow water (esturine environment)looking to see below the surface .
A polaroid filter is a nuisance on a drone as to work properly it has to be aligned to the angle of the sun.
Once you have it set appropriately, it's not going to work properly if you turn the drone to fly in any other direction.
It also cuts the light getting to your lens by about 75%

Simply watching the angle you shoot from can help a lot without using any extra filters
DJI_0299a-L.jpg

DJI_0308a-L.jpg
 
I imagine that the same principle that wearing polaroid sunnies for fishing would apply here?
To be effective you need the sun at your back .
 
I imagine that the same principle that wearing polaroid sunnies for fishing would apply here?
To be effective you need the sun at your back .
There is usually a dot on the outside edge of the filter.
The front element of the polariser is rotated until the white dot is pointing toward the direction of the sun.
 
And so there is , great tip , thanks .
Typically there were no instructions with the set .
 

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