Can anyone recommend an upgraded battery for a P1?

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I see quite a few on Amazon and Ebay but don't know if they are really worth it. Usually 12 min. flying time is plenty for me but there are times I would like a few min. more.
 
Maddog 2800 or Dinogy 2800 batteries will fit in the existing battery bay and add some flight time. Switching to the P2 props will also help. If you are willing to trim the opening of the battery bay, you can fit the Multistar 4000 battery for even more flight time.
 
Maddog 2800 or Dinogy 2800 batteries will fit in the existing battery bay and add some flight time. Switching to the P2 props will also help. If you are willing to trim the opening of the battery bay, you can fit the Multistar 4000 battery for even more flight time.

OK thanks... I might already have the P2 props... I have the ones that do not require separate bolts (am flying P1.1) I don't see either of those batteries on amazon using the names you gave, but I see some on Ebay... there are others. I know from experience some aftermarket batteries are crap. No, don't want to modify the quad, not yet sure how long I will keep it.

Anyone use these?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K6AF3OW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A25BIGUW7MK12R

Thanks again.

(Bird was closer than it appears due to wide angle lens. )
 

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Hello again, DP. syotr is correct about the P2 props. I put on the 9450s and got two minutes extra flight time and they are reported to produce an extra 100 grams lift capacity. As for the Turnigy Multistar 4000mAh, I'm getting 14:38 consistently with fully loaded FPV gear (sig) and was getting 20 minutes flat with those props and no camera or FPV gear. The trimming of the battery compartment opening is really easy. Some use a Dremel, but I used a Stanley monster utility knife with a new blade and it was really quick and smooth. Most of the trimming has to come off the bottom of the opening, down to level of where the battery slides inside. It's somewhat easier if you remove the door first, but it's not required.

If you do decide to remove the door, just tap the pin with a really small screwdriver or finish nail and it slides right out. The left side needs a little trim job as well, but not as much as the bottom. When you're done, the battery is really snug sliding in or out. In fact, even with the door left open, the battery can't fall out. Speaking of the door, you will most probably want to make a cutout in the left side of the door for the wires from the battery and bird to go through and connect outside. It's really a challenge to connect first, then try to get all that stuff inside and close the door. BTW the door WILL close securely using this method, without having to get one those 3D printed extended doors.

Any other questions about modding, fire away. The guys on this forum are always ready to help with good advice and methods. :)

Fly safe/fly happy (no hashtag)
 
Hello again, DP. syotr is correct about the P2 props. I put on the 9450s and got two minutes extra flight time and they are reported to produce an extra 100 grams lift capacity. As for the Turnigy Multistar 4000mAh, I'm getting 14:38 consistently with fully loaded FPV gear (sig) and was getting 20 minutes flat with those props and no camera or FPV gear. The trimming of the battery compartment opening is really easy. Some use a Dremel, but I used a Stanley monster utility knife with a new blade and it was really quick and smooth. Most of the trimming has to come off the bottom of the opening, down to level of where the battery slides inside. It's somewhat easier if you remove the door first, but it's not required.

If you do decide to remove the door, just tap the pin with a really small screwdriver or finish nail and it slides right out. The left side needs a little trim job as well, but not as much as the bottom. When you're done, the battery is really snug sliding in or out. In fact, even with the door left open, the battery can't fall out. Speaking of the door, you will most probably want to make a cutout in the left side of the door for the wires from the battery and bird to go through and connect outside. It's really a challenge to connect first, then try to get all that stuff inside and close the door. BTW the door WILL close securely using this method, without having to get one those 3D printed extended doors.

Any other questions about modding, fire away. The guys on this forum are always ready to help with good advice and methods. :)

Fly safe/fly happy (no hashtag)

OK I see those are a little different from mine, more square on the ends like the 9443.
Thanks
 
I'm using these.

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17821__ZIPPY_Flightmax_2800mAh_3S1P_30C_US_Warehouse_.html

I get about 10 to 13 minutes with stock prop's and anti vibrate camera mount and a sj4000 camera.

I bought 4 and to be honest after flying 2 batteries I'm done for a bit.

EDIT:
I forgot to mention that the batteries fit but you have to shave a bit of plastic from the left side of the phantom body so the wires tuck in nice.
Hmmm... I get about 12 minutes with the same camera and mount with stock batteries
 
Things to consider when comparing flight times include, but are not limited to:

Piloting technique,
Field elevation,
Temperature,
Humidity,
Wind,
Propeller diameter and pitch,
Drag created by anything mounted outside the shell, like a gimbal, camera, or guards,
Battery load from any mods, like a gimbal, camera, transmitter, or lights,
Gross weight of the aircraft.
 
Hmmm... I get about 12 minutes with the same camera and mount with stock batteries
I'm still using stock props. When the thrust props come in I'll check times. Also I got times from video that I edited and trimmed. I'll also check my pc later for un edited videos and post there times.
 
Well it was bothering me to see how long an un edited flight was so out of bed I went and took a pic of the time.
image.jpg


Not bad if you ask me on stock props.
 
Not bad at all, I just don't want to shave my drone... I find it enough of a chore to shave myself.

For now the stock ones are OK, especially since I expect to be flying the Q500+ more, but at the moment I am leaning toward keeping the P1 also so may want to upgrade battery.
 
I was able to get the battery's in without shaving the door at first but the balancing wires were a pain to get in. I shaved the door just to make it easier. The battery is the same length and width. it's the hight that makes the wires a pain.
image.jpg


Here is a vid I found after the trimming. installing larger battery without any trimming. If this helps

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Thanks
I don't know, it's not so much fun even getting the stock one in there and getting the door closed... the wires always want to push it back open, they could have done better with the battery door but then they could have also put an on/off switch on it somewhere.

Not sure what I'll do yet but thanks for all your efforts.
 
Thanks
I don't know, it's not so much fun even getting the stock one in there and getting the door closed... the wires always want to push it back open, they could have done better with the battery door but then they could have also put an on/off switch on it somewhere.

Not sure what I'll do yet but thanks for all your efforts.
I also had a problem getting the wires tucked back in and shutting the door on my P1 using stock battery.. Very simple solution. When you get the battery, the wires extend out from the end of the battery. Fold the wires across the end face of the battery and tape in place. Scotch tape is fine. Insert battery with wires facing left. The biggest problem was the balance plug. Take a small round file and make a notch on lower left part of door so balance wires/plug will
be outside. After doing this, I never have a problem with door trying to open. The balance plug being on the outside is fine. I plug my FPV transmitter into it. Taping the wires to battery will also stop all the constant bending and breaking connection at battery. It's a twofer solution.
 
I removed the battery door completely and have 2 pieces of wire holding the battery in. I think it's 20 awg solid core copper.

The extra airflow should help cool off my transmitter too, I hope.

Wires vs Door.jpg Wires holding wires.jpg
 
I removed the battery door completely and have 2 pieces of wire holding the battery in. I think it's 20 awg solid core copper.

The extra airflow should help cool off my transmitter too, I hope.

View attachment 18367 View attachment 18368

I just had my first and second flights with the Q500+ Typhoon, stability is awesome. Will do some minor cutting and upload to my channel soon. Flew it over water and a long way off, was almost pooping my pants
 
I just had my first and second flights with the Q500+ Typhoon, stability is awesome. Will do some minor cutting and upload to my channel soon. Flew it over water and a long way off, was almost pooping my pants
Pooping my pants.... Lol.....that's how I felt going high with the phantom the first time. I look forward to see your video over the water (I like them shots). Please post it up.
 
I just had my first and second flights with the Q500+ Typhoon, stability is awesome. Will do some minor cutting and upload to my channel soon. Flew it over water and a long way off, was almost pooping my pants
ROFLMAO

Good for you. Do you think it will be the bird of your dreams? I sure hope so, that way you can give the FC40 to someone needy like me.
 

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