Always hand spin your motors before take-off.

[Jtrjr]

I come from the same school, been building and restoring vintage Harley's and about anything that crosses my hands.

Wall,

Thanks for the note. Sometimes I think I'm just talking to myself but I said in the beginning that I'd keep people posted so I'm just following through. Sounds like we have a similar mindset. Do what you got to do to keep things moving down the road.

Jerry

 

[DPD]

Update. Some motor screws were a bit looser than I remembered, everything else was solid. The screw heads are starting to deform the strongarm holes. A very small flat washer might help but I don't have any that small. I inspected everything and snugged up the motors. I'm hoping to make another run yet tonight. It all depends on the wind.

Jerry

Hey Jerry. I was reading your thread about using strong arms. Did you buy the ones that are plastic or the aluminum? Just wondering how they been working out for you. I have ordered the aluminum silver ones for my P3P, but they haven't arrived yet expecting them soon. Just wondering if you have any dues or don'ts about installing them.


Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots mobile app

 

[Jtrjr]

Hey Jerry. I was reading your thread about using strong arms. Did you buy the ones that are plastic or the aluminum?

DPD,

I bought the plastic ones, I was a bit concerned about the aluminum ones being too rigid. I like the one's that I'm using because they have a little flex to them. If it wasn't for all of the inspecting I've been doing on the motors, I wouldn't be taking them on and off like I have been. I think it's starting to put some stress on them (the Strong Arm plates not the bird). I've got no cracks on any of my birds though.

Advice, Do one plate at a time, pull the two screws that actually go into the arm first and then the four that actually go into the motor. Be very careful that you use the proper screws and tools. Keep your old ones in case you ever want to take them off. If you were to take them off and use the screws that came with the kit, you'd ruin the motors because the kit screws would be too long.

On my last reinstall I decided to use a very tiny drop of blue Loctite (I even wiped the excess off, I wanted it to be very light) on the motor screws only, not on the two screws that go into the arm. I put the four motor screws in first but just until they stop. After I get them in place I put the two screws that go into the arm in, again just until they stop. I then snug down the motor screws in a crisscross manner, then I snug down the arm screws. Be exceptionally careful with the arm screws as they're just going into plastic so they could strip very easily. Hope that helps a little.

Jerry

 

[Jtrjr]

Update: Did a few extreme runs with the "oiled" bird. Farthest from Home Point was just over 25k'. Also did a few speed runs today as it was a bit windy. I was quite disappointed in the speed runs, maxed out at 56MPH in ATTI mode. I thought it would do better than that. So far, still good! (Keep your fingers crossed!)

Jerry

 

[Reed L]

We

Wall,

Thanks for the note. Sometimes I think I'm just talking to myself but I said in the beginning that I'd keep people posted so I'm just following through. Sounds like we have a similar mindset. Do what you got to do to keep things moving down the road.

Jerry

We're still listening I bought the plastic strong arms also for that same reason. Basically I wanted the extra give from the plastic that helps it mold into the arm better. It surprising how hard that you can tighten the screws when you tighten them using a standard star pattern. I couldn't see any advantage at all with the aluminum strong arms.

 

[Jtrjr]

I couldn't see any advantage at all with the aluminum strong arms.

Reed,

I liked the look of the aluminum but thought it might be too stiff. Like you, I wanted something with a bit of give.

Jerry

 

[alokbhargava]

I use the quick release mounts of prop guards. They work very well.

 

[Jtrjr]

I use the quick release mounts of prop guards. They work very well.

Al,

I have those on my P2. Never use the prop guards but left the mounts on there for added strength.

Jerry

 

[henick]

I oiled mine the day it came in as a preventative measure using a very high quality gun oil. I have never had an issue or a crash that was not directly my own fault. The motors work perfectly, make no noises and I'll continue to put a single drop of low viscosity oil every month or so for as long as I own the device unless someone posts definitive proof that it harms it. In my experience it isn't going to hurt anything and I've been building this type of device for many years. No, it isn't necessary with a sealed bearing (provided nothing fails) but does seem to be a lot cooler when I land after running a battery dry. Just one man's opinion I guess. The right oil isn't going to cause harm to any of the seals nor should it ever collect any amount of dust unless in extreme conditions where you'd likely face that problem with or without.