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Adjustable f-stop is wonderful!!!
- Thread starter fhagan02
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I have been flying the P3P for a while. Getting ready to make the move to the P4P. I just learned what F-stop is. 
Could you give so real world scenarios on the "work flow" of the camera settings? Should f-stop, ISO, or shutter speed be set first? Which comes next? Or does it matter according to conditions?
Could you give so real world scenarios on the "work flow" of the camera settings? Should f-stop, ISO, or shutter speed be set first? Which comes next? Or does it matter according to conditions?
Entirely depends on the lighting conditions you are shooting under.
Generally speaking - and this works for photography as well - you want to shoot under the lowest ISO possible to prevent the introduction of noise as mentioned.
Secondary consideration: How much depth of field is required? If you are tracking a subject, having the background out of focus might be desirable. If you are shooting a landscape or panorama, not so much. That governs how open or closed your aperture is ("f stop", as he incorrectly called it. F-stop is the measurement; i.e. your aperture is open to f/2.8 or f/5.6, etc).
Third consideration: How much motion is in your scene, and how much do you need to stop that action? Slower shutter speeds let in more light, but in still images will also blur any motion. Faster shutter speeds let in less light, but freeze motion more.
As a photographer, you balance all of these to achieve proper exposure given your priorities. And no, it's not always workable, which is why photographers either add light (strobes, primarily), compromise (accept some noise, or accept a shallower depth of field) or simply wait for better conditions.
Generally speaking - and this works for photography as well - you want to shoot under the lowest ISO possible to prevent the introduction of noise as mentioned.
Secondary consideration: How much depth of field is required? If you are tracking a subject, having the background out of focus might be desirable. If you are shooting a landscape or panorama, not so much. That governs how open or closed your aperture is ("f stop", as he incorrectly called it. F-stop is the measurement; i.e. your aperture is open to f/2.8 or f/5.6, etc).
Third consideration: How much motion is in your scene, and how much do you need to stop that action? Slower shutter speeds let in more light, but in still images will also blur any motion. Faster shutter speeds let in less light, but freeze motion more.
As a photographer, you balance all of these to achieve proper exposure given your priorities. And no, it's not always workable, which is why photographers either add light (strobes, primarily), compromise (accept some noise, or accept a shallower depth of field) or simply wait for better conditions.
Meta4
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4th consideration: How much does this matter for a very wideangle lens for aerial photography?
Even at f2.8 this lens has impressive depth of field and users are unlikely to be doing much close shooting.
Meta4
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The P4 pro gives you the opportunity to shoot aperture priority (A) or shutter priority (S).I have been flying the P3P for a while. Getting ready to make the move to the P4P. I just learned what F-stop is.
Could you give so real world scenarios on the "work flow" of the camera settings? Should f-stop, ISO, or shutter speed be set first? Which comes next? Or does it matter according to conditions?
You get to decide what is more important to control for the shot you want, aperture or shutter speed.
If you were night shooting and wanted a two second shutter speed to show light trails, you would choose shutter priority, set your shutter speed to 2 seconds and let the camera choose an appropriate aperture.
If you wanted all your shots to be taken at the same aperture, you could choose aperture priority, select the desired aperture value and let the camera choose a shutter speed.
Of course there is another parameter, the sensitivity (ISO) which you can lock down or let the camera choose.
For your average daylight scenes, choosing settings won't be too critical as there will be enough light to avoid anything tricky.
It's when you get down to low light situations where the settings you choose would be more important.
If you aren't sure what you are doing and set the aperture at f 5.6 (Aperture priority - A) and let the camera handle the ISO and shutter speed, you'll get pretty good results in almost all daylight situations.
Another addendum is that if you are using AEB, then use aperture priority mode. If you use shutter speed mode and the camera varies the aperture, you will have slight focus shifts in each frame. (I tested this out myself).
Zeldon50
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Zeldon50
Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots
Most tests that I have seen show that around f 5.6 - 6.3 is the "sweet spot".
That is an answer, even a guy that doesn't know much more about photography than point and shoot, can wrap his mind around
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