What do the following functions do on Futaba T8FG

[Khudson7]

Now the one thing I was not understanding before but I believe I do now, was what he was doing with the auto yaw and auto yaw trim functionality and how it is used. And I am impressed and it sounds like a pretty clever way to better control yaw moves and yaw moves with a little roll to circle objects.

Ditto, and I've been playing with it in my mind since I saw DesertFlyer's post above, trying to figure out the best way to achieve it. I'm trying to decide it if would be better on the LS or one of the knobs, probably the latter. Very interested to see how your testing goes.

I guess the trick is finding the right roll/yaw ratio to output.

Yes, I suspect that finding roll/yaw will be the trick. So far today I only was able to test briefly in my back yard and I need to take it out to open field. But I did immediately notice that having yaw control on a knob to be much smoother than trying to manage yaw with sticks. I will give it more testing tomorrow.

 

[OI Photography]

Yes, I suspect that finding roll/yaw will be the trick. So far today I only was able to test briefly in my back yard and I need to take it out to open field. But I did immediately notice that having yaw control on a knob to be much smoother than trying to manage yaw with sticks. I will give it more testing tomorrow.

Sweet, I can definitely see how it would be a great simplified control interface for that maneuver.

I'm *guessing* it might be best to get the range of roll rates figured out and entered first, then combine and tweak the yaw to match.

 

[quality control]

Is there no way of dissecting the T8FG file with some kind of futaba editor.

 

[Gizmo3000]

I think it's safe to claim that one can do almost anything with Taranis that Futaba can do.

Dual/Triple rates are pretty simple.. all they do is adjust things so that the sticks are "dampened" down to be less sensitive, either using rates (less total servo travel) or expo's (less sensitivity towards the center of the sticks)
this video shows how to set them up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5qBymgISqc

As for Auto Yaw and Yaw Trim, I'm honestly not sure what those entail. (a switch to make the craft yaw automatically?), but I'm sure those are do-able.

It's easy to make mixes that tie yaw with roll, which would allow you to try to pull off a auto-rotate around a subject, but it's a tricky science as it all depends on just how large a radius you're wishing to circle around.
but all that's done easily with mixes in the Taranis.

I prefer to just manually circle an object, which is easy to do with practice.

 

[DesertFlyer53]

You masters need to get this working. I would love this on my Taranis, just not that versed in it to try this, I wouldn't know where to start. Actually thinking about picking up a T8FG for the functionality as it seems REALLY cool.

The T8FGS was discontinued by Futaba. Why, I don't know. I suppose you can probably still find them on Ebay though. I love my T8FG Super and to be honest, I would not have bought it if it weren't for ianwoods experience with this radio and his thread here about how to use it, plus his custom profiles.

 

[DesertFlyer53]

I prefer to just manually circle an object, which is easy to do with practice.

I would tend to agree with you. It's not really that hard to do with practice. Having this function automated on a knob is nice but it has it's limitations. For instance, if there is any wind it's not going to work well. The wind will eventually blow you over the subject you are trying to circle. But... I have found that it does work if you add small control stick corrections during the maneuver. But again, for me it seems to be easier to just use the sticks alone. i.e... face the subject, input aileron (either left or right) and hold it steady, use opposite rubber to keep the subject in the center of the frame. Forward and/or aft stick is often needed at some point to keep the same distance from the subject throughout the circle and to correct for wind drift.

 

[OI Photography]

I prefer to just manually circle an object, which is easy to do with practice.

I would tend to agree with you. It's not really that hard to do with practice. Having this function automated on a knob is nice but it has it's limitations. For instance, if there is any wind it's not going to work well. The wind will eventually blow you over the subject you are trying to circle. But... I have found that it does work if you add small control stick corrections during the maneuver. But again, for me it seems to be easier to just use the sticks alone. i.e... face the subject, input aileron (either left or right) and hold it steady, use opposite rubber to keep the subject in the center of the frame. Forward and/or aft stick is often needed at some point to keep the same distance from the subject throughout the circle and to correct for wind drift.

Yeah I've been quite happy with the passes I can do by hand...sometimes. I'd just like to tinker with a mixed control like that.

It seems like I can usually get at least 50-75% of a full circle good enough to use the footage, and most of the time that's more than enough. Sometimes I'll get one long enough that I can pull multiple clips from the same pass.

 

[quality control]

Well I bought a T8FG to try out and hopefully dissect.

If we get it working on the taranis I will sell the T8.

 

[Khudson7]

I prefer to just manually circle an object, which is easy to do with practice.

I would tend to agree with you. It's not really that hard to do with practice. Having this function automated on a knob is nice but it has it's limitations. For instance, if there is any wind it's not going to work well. The wind will eventually blow you over the subject you are trying to circle. But... I have found that it does work if you add small control stick corrections during the maneuver. But again, for me it seems to be easier to just use the sticks alone. i.e... face the subject, input aileron (either left or right) and hold it steady, use opposite rubber to keep the subject in the center of the frame. Forward and/or aft stick is often needed at some point to keep the same distance from the subject throughout the circle and to correct for wind drift.

Yeah I've been quite happy with the passes I can do by hand...sometimes. I'd just like to tinker with a mixed control like that.

It seems like I can usually get at least 50-75% of a full circle good enough to use the footage, and most of the time that's more than enough. Sometimes I'll get one long enough that I can pull multiple clips from the same pass.

Yes I agree, like to tinker but as of yet, not sure it is all worth it when, with a little flying practice you can handle all of this auto yaw stuff with the sticks.

I did just come back from testing the auto yaw and roll switches and knobs setup on the taranis as I mentioned earlier. I would need to do more testing to fine tune the auto panning around an object but it does look as though it was working and will work better once I get it tuned up a bit better. (also the wind as mentioned, made it a bit more difficult) But initially I am beginning to feel that it really is not that useful. In particular I was noticing(maybe because I am not used to it yet) it is making flying a bit more complicated...i.e. having to remember which position this switch and knob is in along with everything else, and in a couple of instances losing temporary control of the copter when it started rolling/yawing because, while going through the switches and knobs, forgetting were I was at. And as was mentioned above, I could probably do the same thing just using the sticks with a little more practice. But, I do like to tinker, and this idea does sound intriguing. Having the yaw set on the knob at about 20% weight did give a nice slow steady pan and I have the choice now to use either the knob for slower steadier pans or the rudder stick as usual to be a nice added feature. Once I get this a little better refined, I hope to be able to attach a video to demonstrate the feature.

Another feature I added and was testing was to have the timer start when both sticks are down and center(when the motor starts) and during the flight, I get verbal calls that let me know how long I am in the air where it will say i.e. "3 minutes" "4 minutes" etc, and then when I stop the motors via the throttle down, the timer stops and resets. This all seems to be working A-OK now. I really do love and have gotten dependent on the voice commands and how easy it is to program them to do many things.

 

[OI Photography]

Another feature I added and was testing was to have the timer start when both sticks are down and center(when the motor starts) and during the flight, I get verbal calls that let me know how long I am in the air where it will say i.e. "3 minutes" "4 minutes" etc, and then when I stop the motors via the throttle down, the timer stops and resets. This all seems to be working A-OK now. I really do love and have gotten dependent on the voice commands and how easy it is to program them to do many things.

I love that feature too, but haven't been able to figure out how to get the timer to start with the CSC, or better yet when throttle stick first goes above midpoint.

I understand your worry about adding the knob as yet another complexity in the control setup, I was thinking some of that could be mitigated by adding a switch to enable/disable the knob control, so it would be a conscious switch between control modes. Still just spitballing, and anxious to see what you've worked out so far

 

[Khudson7]

Setting Timer on Taranis to start/Stop automatically

Thanks OI Photography, appreciate your input and insight, it helps...I am certainly no expert here, just like tinkering with the taranis and it has become my obsession, uh, I mean hobby.

Anyway, here is what I did to make the timer work. If anyone else has a better way...I am all ears, but for now, this seems to be working. As mentioned, when both sticks are all the way down and center to start motors, the the timer (no 1) will start and during flight, it will notify me by voice at each minute interval I am flying. And when I land and put throttle down for couple of seconds to stop motors. the timer will stop and reset to 0.







You probably can figure out the logic by reviewing these screens but I would be happy to walk you thru the logic in more detail if it is not clear from looking at these. As you can see, I am using a global variable, as a true/false variable, setting it to 1 when engines start and reset to 0 when stopped and the logic is responding to the value of that variable.

As I am sure you know, these screens are taken from the TX Companion program on my mac, which I find to be so much easier to program and test with it's simulator, than trying to do the programming with the screens on the taranis itself.

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[OI Photography]

ooohboy...logical switches lol. That's the unexplored territory for me yet in the Taranis, but that's what I've been working towards. One of the things that makes the Taranis so attractive to me is the ability to create/use logical functions like that, I just haven't gotten that far yet. One of my goals is to be able to set telemetry-based functions (via global variables, I'm assuming), like extending landing gear and turning on landing lights anytime the altitude is below 30ft, for example

Your screenshots of those tabs help a great deal, thank you...I can probably engineer the rest from there. Right now my timer reads the interval aloud at every minute like yours (which is absolutely great), I just have it set to start with a switch for now.

Btw, if you get any telemetry sensors I would highly suggest setting up audible alerts on your voltage as well. I have mine set up to read it to me whenever I flick the SH switch. Those two voice alerts alone are worth the price of the hardware!

 

[Khudson7]

"Btw, if you get any telemetry sensors I would highly suggest setting up audible alerts on your voltage as well. I have mine set up to read it to me whenever I flick the SH switch. Those two voice alerts alone are worth the price of the hardware!"

Could not agree more...I do have the RSSI set up on my SH switch So I can get that reading anytime I need it. What is the other reading you are referring to. Correct me if I am wrong but I believe from what I have read that the critical number for RSSI is 38. Below that and you are about to lose radio contact. So I have a voice warning set up for when RSSI reading gets to around 45 and another voice alert with a critical warning when RSSI is about 42. So far I have not gotten anywhere near these readings yet. But I agree, that alone is worth the hardware. I just do not like waiting until the signal is completely lost and have to depend on the RTH to kick in, as is what the standard dji radio does. I rather know BEFORE I am about to lose signal and react to that.

I also understand that FrSky does have some other telemetry add-ons that can be installed into the Phantom for additional telemetry information. Have you done any of those yet? If so, did you need to add the additional module to increase the number of channels to 16?

Inquiring minds(me) what to know....thanks again for your input.

 

[quality control]

****, you guys are going hardcore. I am no where near that expertise but would love to set that up. I am guessing RSSI is the signal to receiver? So if it goes below 42 you are far and need to come home as you are about to lose communication with the RX?

I will have to setup those timers and rssi features. I am learning too.

 

[OI Photography]

I will have to setup those timers and rssi features.

I'm pretty sure the RSSI warnings are set up by default (if you have voice enabled)...I don't recall turning them on but I do get "RSSI low" and "RSSI critical" warnings (in bench testing, not flight tested yet). I just don't know what the default values are offhand. The ones quoted above sound right to me, but I'd have to look to see what mine are at currently. And yes, RSSI is a direct indicator of signal strength at the Rx, and when you get below 40 or so the dropoff can be sudden.

@Khudson: telemetry is a whole other dimension to the usefulness of the Taranis, at least for tinkerers and testers. The catch is that at least one of the most useful sensors I'd recommend (the 40A current sensor, which also gives you voltage and mAh consumed) isn't an easy install on the P2 due to the non-standard power setup on them. It can be done, and if you have the skills I highly recommend it, but it's not plug-n-play. Most of the other available telemetry sensors can just be installed and connected to the smartport chain (and then to the port on the X8R that's right next to the antenna leads), with no other modification to the Phantom necessary. But, although they're all fairly small, adding more than one or two can start to get tight inside.

I've used a number of their sensors, but mostly on my 550 since it's easier to fit them. I've used the current sensors, variometer, voltage sensors, and now the GPS sensor too. On the Phantom the only one I carry is the 40A current sensor, since I get so much data out of that one alone.

Since the telemetry connects through the SmartPort...port, no need to mess with channel output assignments or anything like that. Just connect them and the data starts flowing

 

[OI Photography]

40A current sensor: http://www.alofthobbies.com/sp-40a.html

Standard Variometer (barometer-based altitude sensor): http://www.alofthobbies.com/variometer.html

GPS sensor: http://www.alofthobbies.com/frsky-sp-gps.html

All of those (and any SmartPort sensors) can call be daisy-chained together to one connection on the X8R (or X6R/X4R). FrSky also has a range of previous-generation "hub-based" sensors (named for how they would connect). Hub-based sensors can't connect directly to the SmartPort on the X8R, but they can be added to a SmartPort chain by using a Variometer as a bridge. Don't ask me why FrSky chose that component but that's how it works. In recent months most Hub-based sensors have had a SmartPort equivalent released, but earlier this year there were only a small number of SmartPort sensors on the market.

 

[quality control]

40A current sensor: http://www.alofthobbies.com/sp-40a.html

Standard Variometer (barometer-based altitude sensor): http://www.alofthobbies.com/variometer.html

GPS sensor: http://www.alofthobbies.com/frsky-sp-gps.html

All of those (and any SmartPort sensors) can call be daisy-chained together to one connection on the X8R (or X6R/X4R). FrSky also has a range of previous-generation "hub-based" sensors (named for how they would connect). Hub-based sensors can't connect directly to the SmartPort on the X8R, but they can be added to a SmartPort chain by using a Variometer as a bridge. Don't ask me why FrSky chose that component but that's how it works. In recent months most Hub-based sensors have had a SmartPort equivalent released, but earlier this year there were only a small number of SmartPort sensors on the market.

I was looking at the GPS sensor and will definitely look at the 40A current sensor. what is involved in installing the 40A current sensor?

 

[Khudson7]

Thanks OI, for all the info, it is very helpful.

 

[OI Photography]

what is involved in installing the 40A current sensor?

It needs to be connected in-line with the main power leads from the battery to the mainboard. In a P1 that's easy with the standard XT60 connectors that model uses. For a P2 you would need to unsolder the battery leads at either the connector where the battery connects or at the mainboard. Then connect the sensor with XT60's or direct soldering, and re-complete the circuit you cut (re-wire to the connector or mainboard).

Thanks OI, for all the info, it is very helpful.

No problem! I'm having as much fun with the Taranis as you are

 

[quality control]

Thanks OI Photography, appreciate your input and insight, it helps...I am certainly no expert here, just like tinkering with the taranis and it has become my obsession, uh, I mean hobby.

Anyway, here is what I did to make the timer work. If anyone else has a better way...I am all ears, but for now, this seems to be working. As mentioned, when both sticks are all the way down and center to start motors, the the timer (no 1) will start and during flight, it will notify me by voice at each minute interval I am flying. And when I land and put throttle down for couple of seconds to stop motors. the timer will stop and reset to 0.







You probably can figure out the logic by reviewing these screens but I would be happy to walk you thru the logic in more detail if it is not clear from looking at these. As you can see, I am using a global variable, as a true/false variable, setting it to 1 when engines start and reset to 0 when stopped and the logic is responding to the value of that variable.

As I am sure you know, these screens are taken from the TX Companion program on my mac, which I find to be so much easier to program and test with it's simulator, than trying to do the programming with the screens on the taranis itself.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Big props goes to both of you.

I did manage to add the timer as you outlined above. Because my S2 rotary has nothing assigned, I decided through logical switches to assign that to a volume knob for the voice readouts. I find that depending on where I am flying, a volume knob to increase volume would be very handy. Works like a charm!

Now we need to figure out more fun ways to program this thing.