What do the following functions do on Futaba T8FG

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Curious what these functions do?

Triple rate controls
Auto Yaw trim
Auto yaw

Can I set these up on a Taranis?
 
Well I am not sure but I am guessing that these are not already on the Futaba T8FG, but that, someone has programmed some of the switches or knobs on the Futaba to do these things. I would bet that it COULD be done on the Taranis but I do not understand what it is they do, from your question. Perhaps Mike could help here.
 
Khudson7 said:
Well I am not sure but I am guessing that these are not already on the Futaba T8FG, but that, someone has programmed some of the switches or knobs on the Futaba to do these things. I would bet that it COULD be done on the Taranis but I do not understand what it is they do, from your question. Perhaps Mike could help here.

I am not sure what they do either. There is a mod post for Futaba users where the op includes the file to set this up. Just curious if they are settings I would use since I have a Taranis I am sure they could be setup on there as well.
 
Yes, I would be curious too, as to what they do as I might like to consider that functionality for the taranis. Hopefully one of the Futaba users, can chime in and answer this.

Just one side note that you may already be aware of, but I wasn't until recently when I was trying to duplicate a function that a futaba user did. It has to do with setting curves and expos...when on the futaba you set an expo of say -50% to soften the stick movement at the center, to dupe that on the taranis you need to set expo to +50%. Seems that Futaba and FrSky went in different directions regarding these settings.

As I said, you may already be aware of this, but just thought I would pass it on, in case you were not.
 
Khudson7 said:
Yes, I would be curious too, as to what they do as I might like to consider that functionality for the taranis. Hopefully one of the Futaba users, can chime in and answer this.

Just one side note that you may already be aware of, but I wasn't until recently when I was trying to duplicate a function that a futaba user did. It has to do with setting curves and expos...when on the futaba you set an expo of say -50% to soften the stick movement at the center, to dupe that on the taranis you need to set expo to +50%. Seems that Futaba and FrSky went in different directions regarding these settings.

As I said, you may already be aware of this, but just thought I would pass it on, in case you were not.

I wasn't at all. Do you soften your sticks? I would like to learn more.
 
quality control said:
Khudson7 said:
Yes, I would be curious too, as to what they do as I might like to consider that functionality for the taranis. Hopefully one of the Futaba users, can chime in and answer this.

Just one side note that you may already be aware of, but I wasn't until recently when I was trying to duplicate a function that a futaba user did. It has to do with setting curves and expos...when on the futaba you set an expo of say -50% to soften the stick movement at the center, to dupe that on the taranis you need to set expo to +50%. Seems that Futaba and FrSky went in different directions regarding these settings.

As I said, you may already be aware of this, but just thought I would pass it on, in case you were not.

I wasn't at all. Do you soften your sticks? I would like to learn more.

I usually fly with (+)50% expo rates on all 4 axis with the Taranis, but I have it set so I can flip a switch and change them all to no expo at all, which I use on the times I want more precise control. This shows how to set that up in the inputs tab, using the SD swtich:
INI7HJJl.jpg


With the settings you see there, you'll be using 50% expo whenever SD is in the default position, switching to either of the other positions changes it to no expo.

You could also use that same method to create a separate (possibly 3rd) expo rate for the Rud input to switch to whenever you want to dampen your yaw input even more (like for slow panning shots).
 
I have a 3 way switch(in my case I used sb, but any one could do it) that adds more exponential to the rudder for when I want to video and with yaw turns in particular. Just in case you are not familiar with expo, when adding more expo, the stick movement from center will start its movement of the phantom more slowly and then get faster as you get toward the end of its movement. So by having the rudder stick less sensitive at the center, meaning you have to push the stick further to get the same movement as before, it gives you the ability to better control the turns with the rudder when doing yaw turns. So for example, on my input(sticks) screen, for the rudder, UP on the sb switch, treats the rudder movement normally(evenly increase the power from center to end), MIDDLE sb switch changes the weight of rudder to 75% and adds 65% expo, and lower switch drops rudder weight to 50% with 65% expo AND also changes the weight of elevator and aileron to 90% and add 65% expo. These are all my personal preferences settings and it helps me with getting smoother video with my fat and awkward fingers on the sticks with turning the camera.

Hope this helps and makes sense.
 
I have the Futaba T8FG. A while ago iamwood started a thread on this transmitter. That thread is the main reason I bought my Futaba. ianwood shared his profile which is now at v5 after several changes/updates. I am not familiar with the Taranis radio so I don't know if these functions would work on that raido. See the link below to ianwood's Futaba thread...

http://www.phantompilots.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=8358

Incidentally... the Futaba transmitter works with the stock DJI Phantom receiver, which is the way I use mine. Just bind the Futaba to the P2 receiver and you're good to go after calibrating in the assistant. Same range if not better.
 
Khudson7 said:
I have a 3 way switch(in my case I used sb, but any one could do it) that adds more exponential to the rudder for when I want to video and with yaw turns in particular. Just in case you are not familiar with expo, when adding more expo, the stick movement from center will start its movement of the phantom more slowly and then get faster as you get toward the end of its movement. So by having the rudder stick less sensitive at the center, meaning you have to push the stick further to get the same movement as before, it gives you the ability to better control the turns with the rudder when doing yaw turns. So for example, on my input(sticks) screen, for the rudder, UP on the sb switch, treats the rudder movement normally(evenly increase the power from center to end), MIDDLE sb switch changes the weight of rudder to 75% and adds 65% expo, and lower switch drops rudder weight to 50% with 65% expo AND also changes the weight of elevator and aileron to 90% and add 65% expo. These are all my personal preferences settings and it helps me with getting smoother video with my fat and awkward fingers on the sticks with turning the camera.

Hope this helps and makes sense.

+1

I haven't tried tinkering with the weighting yet, but that sounds like the best way refine your yaw response. I think I'll try your settings today.
 
DesertFlyer53 said:
I have the Futaba T8FG. A while ago iamwood started a thread on this transmitter. That thread is the main reason I bought my Futaba. ianwood shared his profile which is now at v5 after several changes/updates. I am not familiar with the Taranis radio so I don't know if these functions would work on that raido. See the link below to ianwood's Futaba thread...

http://www.phantompilots.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=8358

Incidentally... the Futaba transmitter works with the stock DJI Phantom receiver, which is the way I use mine. Just bind the Futaba to the P2 receiver and you're good to go after calibrating in the assistant. Same range if not better.

What do the functions I have outlined do? I saw that thread and that is where I got my question from
 
quality control said:
DesertFlyer53 said:
I have the Futaba T8FG. A while ago iamwood started a thread on this transmitter. That thread is the main reason I bought my Futaba. ianwood shared his profile which is now at v5 after several changes/updates. I am not familiar with the Taranis radio so I don't know if these functions would work on that raido. See the link below to ianwood's Futaba thread...

http://www.phantompilots.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=8358

Incidentally... the Futaba transmitter works with the stock DJI Phantom receiver, which is the way I use mine. Just bind the Futaba to the P2 receiver and you're good to go after calibrating in the assistant. Same range if not better.

What do the functions I have outlined do? I saw that thread and that is where I got my question from

I don't think I can explain it any better that how it was explained in that thread. Sorry, you're going to have to be more specific.
 
DesertFlyer53 said:
quality control said:
DesertFlyer53 said:
I have the Futaba T8FG. A while ago iamwood started a thread on this transmitter. That thread is the main reason I bought my Futaba. ianwood shared his profile which is now at v5 after several changes/updates. I am not familiar with the Taranis radio so I don't know if these functions would work on that raido. See the link below to ianwood's Futaba thread...

http://www.phantompilots.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=8358

Incidentally... the Futaba transmitter works with the stock DJI Phantom receiver, which is the way I use mine. Just bind the Futaba to the P2 receiver and you're good to go after calibrating in the assistant. Same range if not better.

What do the functions I have outlined do? I saw that thread and that is where I got my question from

I don't think I can explain it any better that how it was explained in that thread. Sorry, you're going to have to be more specific.

But that thread does not explain what the following functions do. And if it does, it is not on the first 3 pages. I don't really want to scour through 90 pages to figure it out.

Triple rate controls
Auto Yaw trim
Auto yaw
 
Below is a copy and paste from the first page of that thread. #3 explains the tripe rate function and #6 explains there auto yaw...

"The Transmitter
This is where the installation is different from the other models. Profiles are model specific. I have built a model for the P2 on my 8FGS which provides the following capabilities:

1. All the basic flight controls of the stock P2 transmitter including similarly positioned "S1" and "S2" switches.

2. A timer that starts when you take off and stops when you shut the motors off. It will beep every minute and then a series of beeps will occur after 15 minutes to remind you to check your battery condition.

3. Triple rate flight controls on SB set up to help with filming especially reducing yaw sensitivity:
UP: full linear controls. (Note: The UP position is away from you.)
MIDDLE: YAW 75% -35 expo, PITCH 100% -25 expo, ROLL 100% -25 expo.
DOWN: YAW 75% -50 expo, PITCH 90% -35 expo, ROLL 90% -35 expo.
4. Smooth gimbal control. The SC 3-way switch will move the gimbal from its current position smoothly up or down depending on position.

5. Forced fail-safe. Switch SF will force the Naza into failsafe mode regardless of mode switch position.

6. Auto YAW on SE and LD.
DOWN: Off.
MIDDLE: YAW based on LD trim.
UP: YAW and ROLL based on LD trim (circle around an object)."


t8fgs-controls.jpg
 
DesertFlyer53 said:
Below is a copy and paste from the first page of that thread. #3 explains the tripe rate function and #6 explains there auto yaw...

"The Transmitter
This is where the installation is different from the other models. Profiles are model specific. I have built a model for the P2 on my 8FGS which provides the following capabilities:

1. All the basic flight controls of the stock P2 transmitter including similarly positioned "S1" and "S2" switches.

2. A timer that starts when you take off and stops when you shut the motors off. It will beep every minute and then a series of beeps will occur after 15 minutes to remind you to check your battery condition.

3. Triple rate flight controls on SB set up to help with filming especially reducing yaw sensitivity:
UP: full linear controls. (Note: The UP position is away from you.)
MIDDLE: YAW 75% -35 expo, PITCH 100% -25 expo, ROLL 100% -25 expo.
DOWN: YAW 75% -50 expo, PITCH 90% -35 expo, ROLL 90% -35 expo.
4. Smooth gimbal control. The SC 3-way switch will move the gimbal from its current position smoothly up or down depending on position.

5. Forced fail-safe. Switch SF will force the Naza into failsafe mode regardless of mode switch position.

6. Auto YAW on SE and LD.
DOWN: Off.
MIDDLE: YAW based on LD trim.
UP: YAW and ROLL based on LD trim (circle around an object)."


t8fgs-controls.jpg

I obviously did not read it. Does the auto yaw really work for circling objects?? What does it do,just slow down the sticks?
 
It works great for turning on a point. You are not using sticks for the maneuver, you are using the left rotary dial LD (Yaw Trim) When the SE switch is set to Yaw and Roll it adjusts the trim for both in equal amounts. Increasing the trim more yaw and roll tightens the circle. Rotating to the left results in a clockwise rotation, to the right CCW.
 
OK, I think I am now beginning to understand the auto yaw and auto yaw trim functions that Lanwood set up. Thanks desert flyer53 and PhantomPhreak.

This page from Lanwood's post was the exact page I was using to re-create what he had done with the Futaba, on my Taranis. First I refer you to my previous post on this topic where I said, when on the Futaba the expo settings are exact opposite the expo settings on the Taranis. For instance if Lanwood says -50 expo, on the Taranis it si +50 expo.

Now the one thing I was not understanding before but I believe I do now, was what he was doing with the auto yaw and auto yaw trim functionality and how it is used. And I am impressed and it sounds like a pretty clever way to better control yaw moves and yaw moves with a little roll to circle objects.

First, I am just trying this right now using the opentx Companion and it looks like this should work(I will go out later to actually test this in flight). In my case I am using S2 for the knob and SC for 3 way switch. So, in mixes screen, add a line under rudder(in my case, channel 4). Set source to S2, weight I set to 20%(arbitrary will adjust later when testing), and set switch to (not)SC(up). This way when switch SC is in middle or down, the S2 knob will control rudder. Turn knob clockwise to yaw right, counter clockwise to yaw left.

Then I added another line in mixes under aileron(my channel 1). Set source again to S2, weight to about 20%(I'll play with this later) and switch to SC(down). So when SC is in down mode, the S2 knob will give both roll and yaw together which I believe will cause it to circle.

I believe that should do it. There are probably several other ways to do this and I invite anyone else to improve on or suggest a better way, but at least I think this is one way to do it on the Taranis.

And again, thanks to all, this sounds like a much better way to do yaw and circling using a knob rather than trying to do it with sticks. Can't wait to test this to see if it works...)I will probably have to play with the roll and yaw % more to sync it up) :roll: ;)
 
Khudson7 said:
Now the one thing I was not understanding before but I believe I do now, was what he was doing with the auto yaw and auto yaw trim functionality and how it is used. And I am impressed and it sounds like a pretty clever way to better control yaw moves and yaw moves with a little roll to circle objects.

Ditto, and I've been playing with it in my mind since I saw DesertFlyer's post above, trying to figure out the best way to achieve it. I'm trying to decide it if would be better on the LS or one of the knobs, probably the latter. Very interested to see how your testing goes.

I guess the trick is finding the right roll/yaw ratio to output.
 
PhantomPhreak said:
It works great for turning on a point. You are not using sticks for the maneuver, you are using the left rotary dial LD (Yaw Trim) When the SE switch is set to Yaw and Roll it adjusts the trim for both in equal amounts. Increasing the trim more yaw and roll tightens the circle. Rotating to the left results in a clockwise rotation, to the right CCW.

Trying to understand how this works.

SE down is off
SE middle is Yaw
SE up is yaw and roll

So what does the middle just yaw result in and how do you increase the trim to tighten or loosen the circle?
 
OI Photography said:
Khudson7 said:
Now the one thing I was not understanding before but I believe I do now, was what he was doing with the auto yaw and auto yaw trim functionality and how it is used. And I am impressed and it sounds like a pretty clever way to better control yaw moves and yaw moves with a little roll to circle objects.

Ditto, and I've been playing with it in my mind since I saw DesertFlyer's post above, trying to figure out the best way to achieve it. I'm trying to decide it if would be better on the LS or one of the knobs, probably the latter. Very interested to see how your testing goes.

I guess the trick is finding the right roll/yaw ratio to output.


You masters need to get this working. I would love this on my Taranis, just not that versed in it to try this, I wouldn't know where to start. Actually thinking about picking up a T8FG for the functionality as it seems REALLY cool.
 

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