Went a little dye crazy...

[dptcalvin]

**** those look great! Care to share your technique?

The dye is from RIT and can be found at most craft stores or Amazon. I prefer the liquid over the powder - it's less messy, both either work.

It's very simple. Clean props, heater water in pan, pour water into glass baking pan (or whatever) just before it starts to boil, add dye, drop in props, pull them out every 2-3 minutes to check for desired color/shade, rinse, dry.

The whole process from start to finish takes me about 15 minutes.

 

[Marlin009]

**** those look great! Care to share your technique?

The dye is from RIT and can be found at most craft stores or Amazon. I prefer the liquid over the powder - it's less messy, both either work.

It's very simple. Clean props, heater water in pan, pour water into glass baking pan (or whatever) just before it starts to boil, add dye, drop in props, pull them out every 2-3 minutes to check for desired color/shade, rinse, dry.

The whole process from start to finish takes me about 15 minutes.

Thanks.

 

[Ezookiel]

I want to do either the whole prop, or just the tips or sections, bright red. The way I understand it, because the brightness of the colour comes from the white of the prop, if you leave them too long, they get darker, so if you want a very bright red, you'll need a shorter time, not longer. Leave them too long and they'll end up the colour of blood. Is that correct?

I wonder how much of the process requires the heat? I'd love to paint off areas of the prop with wax to prevent the dye from taking and do them in cold water (that wouldn't melt the wax).
Then clean them in hot water afterwards to wash the wax off. I actually have a brand new set of the wrong pitch blades, that I keep only as an emergency set, that I could use as an experimental set I guess. I don't care how they come out, as they'll only ever get used if I have no other props at all, and desperately have to go for a fly.

 

[GoodnNuff]

I wonder if adding a mordant (?) would intensify the color, hasten the process, keep the dye from fading by "fixing" it to the plastic, or none of the above? Vinegar could be added as the mordant (like when dying Easter eggs), but not sure if it could affect the plastic?

 

[dptcalvin]

I want to do either the whole prop, or just the tips or sections, bright red. The way I understand it, because the brightness of the colour comes from the white of the prop, if you leave them too long, they get darker, so if you want a very bright red, you'll need a shorter time, not longer. Leave them too long and they'll end up the colour of blood. Is that correct?

I wonder how much of the process requires the heat? I'd love to paint off areas of the prop with wax to prevent the dye from taking and do them in cold water (that wouldn't melt the wax).
Then clean them in hot water afterwards to wash the wax off. I actually have a brand new set of the wrong pitch blades, that I keep only as an emergency set, that I could use as an experimental set I guess. I don't care how they come out, as they'll only ever get used if I have no other props at all, and desperately have to go for a fly.

When I did my first set of props using Scarlett Red, I checked on them every 2 minutes or so. I found that pulling them out sooner than later resulted in lighter stains. They were brighter...but only because you could still see the white from the props. So brighter, yes...but also lighter (looked faded, almost unfinished).

Rit recommends using the hottest water possible. If you want to do the tips only, I would suggest suspending the prop using a hanger, wire, or string of some sort and letting only the tips be dipped in the dye solution. You'll have to monitor movement to get a clean, even line. I would advise doing this indoors with no wind. Initial movement should be fine as long as it settles.

 

[dptcalvin]

I wonder if adding a mordant (?) would intensify the color, hasten the process, keep the dye from fading by "fixing" it to the plastic, or none of the above? Vinegar could be added as the mordant (like when dying Easter eggs), but not sure if it could affect the plastic?

The powder version of Rit does say to use vinegar for nylon, silk, and wool. I'm no chemist, but I don't see vinegar affecting the integrity of the props.

 

[louforgiveno]

For anyone looking to dye other parts of the phantom, I found that rit wouldn't work for me, I used "iDye Poly" ......(important that it is the poly version of idye....)

 

[Reoscorpio]

For anyone looking to dye other parts of the phantom, I found that rit wouldn't work for me, I used "iDye Poly" ......(important that it is the poly version of idye....)

Looks great. Wish I had the patience to remove everything like that. I'll start with the gear.

 

[KMW]

I want to do either the whole prop, or just the tips or sections, bright red. The way I understand it, because the brightness of the colour comes from the white of the prop, if you leave them too long, they get darker, so if you want a very bright red, you'll need a shorter time, not longer. Leave them too long and they'll end up the colour of blood. Is that correct?

I wonder how much of the process requires the heat? I'd love to paint off areas of the prop with wax to prevent the dye from taking and do them in cold water (that wouldn't melt the wax).
Then clean them in hot water afterwards to wash the wax off. I actually have a brand new set of the wrong pitch blades, that I keep only as an emergency set, that I could use as an experimental set I guess. I don't care how they come out, as they'll only ever get used if I have no other props at all, and desperately have to go for a fly.

You might try using Plastidip. It sprays on and sticks well, but just peels off when you want to, and would handle hot water just fine. I've sprayed it on other plastic items and never had any problem with it harming the plastic. Might want to try it on an old prop first, of course though just to make sure.

 

[Marlin009]

**** those look great! Care to share your technique?

The dye is from RIT and can be found at most craft stores or Amazon. I prefer the liquid over the powder - it's less messy, both either work.

It's very simple. Clean props, heater water in pan, pour water into glass baking pan (or whatever) just before it starts to boil, add dye, drop in props, pull them out every 2-3 minutes to check for desired color/shade, rinse, dry.

The whole process from start to finish takes me about 15 minutes.

Thanks again for the tips.

Now, if I only had a mother&$@(!;: quad to put them on.

 

[dptcalvin]

Very nice!!! I wish my reds came out like hat. What color did you use for that red and how long did you leave them in for?

 

[Happyflyer]

Rit powder, very hot water in ice cube pan, less than table spoon of dye, drop in rotors, wiggled them around a little bit, pour in cold water to drop temperature a little, let set for 1/2 hour, removed and rinse. Balanced before the dye job.
.
dptcalvin, your's look great!

 

[Marlin009]

Very nice!!! I wish my reds came out like hat. What color did you use for that red and how long did you leave them in for?

It's Rit Scarlett, liquid. 1 teaspoon and 1 quart of water 15 minutes. I thought it looked like what you got. Pics can be deceiving. The yellow took 45 minutes.

 

[LuvMyTJ]

You guys are dying your props, the next thing you be telling us is that you getting injections in your landing gear to make them bigger. :lol:

 

[dirkclod]

:idea:

 

[Marlin009]

You guys are dying your props, the next thing you be telling us is that you getting injections in your landing gear to make them bigger. :lol:

Let it snow, let it snow, let it it snow.

 

[Happyflyer]

You guys are dying your props, the next thing you be telling us is that you getting injections in your landing gear to make them bigger. :lol:

Let it snow, let it snow, let it it snow.

NO! I'm getting enough of that crap!

 

[LuvMyTJ]

I'm just happy we only got about 6" while I was at work instead of the predicted 12".

 

[dptcalvin]

What's snow. 83 degrees in San Diego today.

 

[varmint]

For anyone looking to dye other parts of the phantom, I found that rit wouldn't work for me, I used "iDye Poly" ......(important that it is the poly version of idye....)

Great tip on the poly-compatible dye - makes perfect sense that it would work better with the plastics. Body looks like a factory job.