FangsCPO said:
Just to be clear most of us are doing this for fun. I'm sure some folks here might have visions of some sort of business opportunity in arial photography or something, but not me.
Tarot 810 (or other)
- Thread starter ladykate
- Start date
Just to be clear most of us are doing this for fun. I'm sure some folks here might have visions of some sort of business opportunity in arial photography or something, but not me.
Ran into a problem.
Hooked up the A2 controller, checked the firmware, bound a transmitter to it, configured the sticks and switches. Could not test a motor/ESC combo. Would not do a CSC except intermittently. It would occasionally start but 90 percent of the time it would not. Wrote the vendor - waiting for an answer. Anyone got any idea?
(checked two ESC/motor combos, two transmitters, two different batteries, verified it was all configured right in the assistant, etc)
Very strange.
Hooked up the A2 controller, checked the firmware, bound a transmitter to it, configured the sticks and switches. Could not test a motor/ESC combo. Would not do a CSC except intermittently. It would occasionally start but 90 percent of the time it would not. Wrote the vendor - waiting for an answer. Anyone got any idea?
(checked two ESC/motor combos, two transmitters, two different batteries, verified it was all configured right in the assistant, etc)
Very strange.
Outtahere100 said:
Yep. Triple checked. However, I might have stumbled onto the problem. I think the A2 won't initiate motor start if the compass is not aligned (at least on the version I have). That is problematic since, with all the parts just strung out on the bench, getting an alignment isn't feasible. I rotated the GPS module by accident (it fell over) and I didn't bother to right it. When I fired it up, the compass was showing alignment and I could start the motors. This just doesn't sound right but it is working right now and when I get the silly thing all mounted and firmly secured, I can do an alignment. Might even be able to start the motors... ;-}
Edit: When all else fails, read the instructions. The CSC page for A2 documentation is longer and bad compass alignment (among a few other things) will prevent successful CSC. I think the Foxtech video led me down the wrong path but I finally made it back. In their video, they show it all strung out on the bench. I think it should be mounted where it is going to be and then all the alignment and updates applied. THEN check out the ESC and Motors before mounting them.
Several updates - some are even on-topic
Note that this is not really a build thread - the build of the 810 is already on YouTube and is 'ok'. There have been some updates to the parts - the wiring hub/bus is much different now and the warnings about screws and purchasing extra stuff are not salient.
Was flying my P2 and managed to get disoriented when coming down between a bunch of trees. Big crash - broke all the props, tore the gimbal off, GoPro went bouncing across a paved street. GoPro survived (wow) but the gimbal did not. Have been working on fixing the P2 so the 810 took a back seat for a short while. P2 is up and running (without gimbal - new one on order).
Went back to the 810 a couple of days ago, wired the motors and ESCs but noticed the power hub provided was only six positions - need 8 to have a 'hub' for power on a hex. Contacted Foxtech and they said you only needed six. They sent pictures of how they wired it - am including them here. They expect you to use the six holes for the ESCs and then splice into the battery wire for on-board power - AND they use the center posts on the hub (meant for banana plugs) by soldering into them. Not very elegant. I ordered an 8 position hub and am waiting on it. Will wire both the 8 and 6 position so I have plenty of power access for future needs.
Here is what the hub looks like that they sent - which is much cooler than the old version - it just needs more holes. The next two pictures are of their installation (not mine). Notice the spliced power wires. Not what I would want to do in a $5K machine.
Note that this is not really a build thread - the build of the 810 is already on YouTube and is 'ok'. There have been some updates to the parts - the wiring hub/bus is much different now and the warnings about screws and purchasing extra stuff are not salient.
Was flying my P2 and managed to get disoriented when coming down between a bunch of trees. Big crash - broke all the props, tore the gimbal off, GoPro went bouncing across a paved street. GoPro survived (wow) but the gimbal did not. Have been working on fixing the P2 so the 810 took a back seat for a short while. P2 is up and running (without gimbal - new one on order).
Went back to the 810 a couple of days ago, wired the motors and ESCs but noticed the power hub provided was only six positions - need 8 to have a 'hub' for power on a hex. Contacted Foxtech and they said you only needed six. They sent pictures of how they wired it - am including them here. They expect you to use the six holes for the ESCs and then splice into the battery wire for on-board power - AND they use the center posts on the hub (meant for banana plugs) by soldering into them. Not very elegant. I ordered an 8 position hub and am waiting on it. Will wire both the 8 and 6 position so I have plenty of power access for future needs.
Here is what the hub looks like that they sent - which is much cooler than the old version - it just needs more holes. The next two pictures are of their installation (not mine). Notice the spliced power wires. Not what I would want to do in a $5K machine.
Attachments
Well.... delay #23.4
Put the electronics on the platform and discovered there is an amazing lack of territory. There is more on a 550. The reason is that the middle level is used up by the folding legs and ESC wiring. The only thing that can fit is the IMU through the center hole. Add the battery to the top and there is just enough room to put the basic A2m system.
Ordered a carbon fiber rail set to attach to the bottom to get the gimbal a place to mount and to add some space for fpv and GS.
Put the electronics on the platform and discovered there is an amazing lack of territory. There is more on a 550. The reason is that the middle level is used up by the folding legs and ESC wiring. The only thing that can fit is the IMU through the center hole. Add the battery to the top and there is just enough room to put the basic A2m system.
Ordered a carbon fiber rail set to attach to the bottom to get the gimbal a place to mount and to add some space for fpv and GS.
ladykate said:
I have not tried this product but the manufacturer has a very good reputation in the connector industry.
John
Outtahere100 said:
I asked some electrician friends and they said they work well - better than screw-on connectors. I installed them on my build and they are handy as all get out - seem very sturdy (can't tear one out - just as tough as a soldered joint). They take a little more space but for just building up the platform they are wonderful. Will decide to keep them or use a soldered bus later. Will definitely put them on the 550 for accessories.
Checked the whole system out (non-flight) today - minus FPV and gimbal. Everything is working - no smoke - engines turn the right way - calibrations are all where they are supposed to be. Had to set the recommended idle to max - wouldn't turn the motors in the assistant unless I did.
Biggest problem now is the brick for a battery. Darn that thing is heavy. Have it mounted center top right now but was thinking of putting it on the leg - don't know how badly that will affect CG. Considering doing the initial test flights with it on top and then transferring it over after any other bugs are ironed out.
ladykate said:
That's weird. Did you have the props on when you started it up after changing that? I'd be worried about it hopping up off the ground immediately.
OI Photography said:
Needed to get it going with the assistant to set all the directions so no props. It seems a little fast but not terribly so. I will probably back it down a notch since it seems to work even at the middle setting (just can't bump the motors with the software). Can change it up to max if it doesn't work right but I see no reason why it wouldn't. I think this is one source of my initial problem with checking out the ESCs/Motors before mounting. I couldn't get them to test in the assistant. Also couldn't get a CSC but that was because of the compass (which I worked around). Ended up checking integrity out at throttle instead of with the assistant. Went out to the DJI website and found the recommendation to boost the idle if the assistant wasn't spinning the props. That worked.
The gains are set at the recommended start point (140,140,130) - that 'might' have something to do with it.
I don't think the gains would have any bearing on that, but I could be wrong.
What ESC's are you using? (Forgive me if you mentioned it, I didn't find that in a re-quick scan of the thread) Did you calibrate them individually before final assembly?
What ESC's are you using? (Forgive me if you mentioned it, I didn't find that in a re-quick scan of the thread) Did you calibrate them individually before final assembly?
OI Photography said:
I'm using Hobbywing Platinum Pro 30A. No calibration ability other than with the motor hooked up and through assistant. I understand you can flash them but the default setup is the one that is recommended.
Edit: using them because of recommendations from two companies and quite a bit of positive (some negative) reviews.
Finally figured out a plan for that brick that I need to mount (aka battery). Will mount it underneath using the pivot bolts for the swinging arms as anchors. Just made a trip to the hardware store and dreamed up a solution. It involves quick-links, cable tie-downs and lots of root beer.
ladykate said:
With most ESC's used for DIY builds like this, you need to throttle calibrate them before using...it's not something that you can do from the NAZA, and should be done even if you aren't flashing or otherwise changing the programming on the ESC's. Uneven motor arming (or no arming at lower idle settings) is one of the common side-effects of ESC's that aren't calibrated. The trick of upping the idle setting in the NAZA can get around it, but it may mean you're not getting the full range of throttle to use when flying, and throttle application can be uneven from one motor to the next.
The process basically involves connecting each ESC directly to the throttle channel of your Rx (not to the NAZA) one at a time then powering the ESC on (not the whole rig) and setting your throttle endpoints. This vid gives a quick demonstration of that procedure (power on Tx, push throttle to 100%, power on ESC, push throttle to 0%): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfTdCVwZYHQ
I imagine that DJI's ESC's are pre-calibrated enough that you don't need to bother with them, and that's why you didn't run in to this on your 550.
OI Photography said:
Good point. I can check that easily enough. However, the Foxtech videos don't show that. Is there ever an exception?
OH... and I may have done this by accident. When I checked the ESC's by themselves, I did something similar. Will go through them tomorrow.
ladykate said:
To be honest I'm not sure if any types might not need that calibration, but I've seen videos showing how to do it with lots of different models, including those with and without SimonK firmware on them. and it seems to be a common step in a lot of how-to vids for full builds. The ones I bought (Maytech 35A) had some instructions that mentioned it.
Oops. Just realized the receiver is integrated with the controller in the A2M. There is no throttle out, just connections to ESCs. Still might be able to do it but it won't be 'standard'. Sent email to dealer to see if there is something I'm missing.
ladykate said:
Ahh yes, I forgot about that with the A2. I guess it'll still be ok to do it if you put the A2 in manual mode first, so it will (I think) pass direct throttle input to the ESC ports.
Wow... been Googling this problem. Talk about mixed messages.
SimonK firmware or DJI firmware is not supposed to be calibrated (according to some). Others say to hook up another rx and use the throttle out from it to set the ESC. Some who have calibrated them anyway have reported problems.
Others say reprogram one of the outputs of the A2M to map to your throttle and then use that to set each ESC (and remember to unmap it after ;-}).
The Foxtechfpv videos do not show them being calibrated (just checked).
The Foxtechfpv help line advised me to calibrate them but didn't say how I was supposed to do that.
The intent of calibration is to map the Futaba throttle - not the assistant so those may be independent (I may still have to have the idle set higher... maybe not).
Will hook another rx to common ground (and proper power) and calibrate that way - seems easier than reprogramming the A2.
SimonK firmware or DJI firmware is not supposed to be calibrated (according to some). Others say to hook up another rx and use the throttle out from it to set the ESC. Some who have calibrated them anyway have reported problems.
Others say reprogram one of the outputs of the A2M to map to your throttle and then use that to set each ESC (and remember to unmap it after ;-}).
The Foxtechfpv videos do not show them being calibrated (just checked).
The Foxtechfpv help line advised me to calibrate them but didn't say how I was supposed to do that.
The intent of calibration is to map the Futaba throttle - not the assistant so those may be independent (I may still have to have the idle set higher... maybe not).
Will hook another rx to common ground (and proper power) and calibrate that way - seems easier than reprogramming the A2.
