Hope this helps someone, it's a block diagram and notes I put together while working out how the P3s system works.
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P3S block diagram.
- Thread starter Bigbadbob76
- Start date
Thanks to Mark for pointing out the obvious typo I missed. lol.
I also need to confirm if the phone commands to the aircraft go via wifi or 5.8Ghz.
Can anyone confirm this for certain?
It makes sense that Litchi missions for example would be uploaded to the aircraft over wifi.
I also need to confirm if the phone commands to the aircraft go via wifi or 5.8Ghz.
Can anyone confirm this for certain?
It makes sense that Litchi missions for example would be uploaded to the aircraft over wifi.
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Oso
Premium Pilot
I'm not an expert by any means, but the info on GitHub shows the below. Hopefully that helps you.
GL358 2G4 WiFi board
The board contains 2.4GHz Radio Frequency components for communications between the remote controller and a mobile device. It is separated from the main board to reduce interference and allow separate shielding for the high frequency components.
GL358 5G8 RF board
The board contains 5.8GHz Radio Frequency components for communications between the drone and the remote controller. It is separated from the main board to reduce interference and allow separate shielding for the high frequency components.
Ok.... that was a useful test...
I connected a dummy load in place of my 5.8Ghz antenna, fired up the controller, a/c and Litchi.
Took the a/c through to the back bedroom where it lost 5.8Ghz link and started flashing it's lights quickly.
went back to the controller, leaving the a/c in the bedroom.
5.8GHz signal bars were right down to none.
wifi bars were full.
Link LED on controller stayed green. (so it's a wifi link light not a 5.8Ghz link light)
Litchi did not report a lost link. (it only reports a lost wifi link)
switching to ATTI/F modes wasn't reflected on the screen (proving the 5.8Ghz link was lost)
Gimbal tilt was not controlable using wheel OR screen slider. (so that's done over 5.8 even when using screen slider)
I then took the controller back in range, switched to F mode, went back out of range.
Screen showed I was in P-GPS mode when I was in F mode. (so if you lose the link it reverts back to P mode.)
I could load missions, start missions take pics, change settings etc (so that's done over wifi)
Pics confirmed as actually taken, they're on the camera SD card.
However if I started a mission, litchi reported mission start but motors (without props) didn't spin up.
(So prop start is done over 5.8)
likewise an auto take-off didn't start the props.
so to summarise-
5.8Ghz link controls the following phone/tablet commands-
prop start. (auto takeoff or mission)
Gimbal pitch.
2.4Ghz wifi link controls-
Mission load.
take photo/start video.
Controller link LED.
That makes sense, any phone commands you can also do with the controller are sent over 5.8Ghz.
Anything you can't do with the controller is done over wifi.
if anyone has any other checks they'd like tried please ask. I'm glad to help.
I connected a dummy load in place of my 5.8Ghz antenna, fired up the controller, a/c and Litchi.
Took the a/c through to the back bedroom where it lost 5.8Ghz link and started flashing it's lights quickly.
went back to the controller, leaving the a/c in the bedroom.
5.8GHz signal bars were right down to none.
wifi bars were full.
Link LED on controller stayed green. (so it's a wifi link light not a 5.8Ghz link light)
Litchi did not report a lost link. (it only reports a lost wifi link)
switching to ATTI/F modes wasn't reflected on the screen (proving the 5.8Ghz link was lost)
Gimbal tilt was not controlable using wheel OR screen slider. (so that's done over 5.8 even when using screen slider)
I then took the controller back in range, switched to F mode, went back out of range.
Screen showed I was in P-GPS mode when I was in F mode. (so if you lose the link it reverts back to P mode.)
I could load missions, start missions take pics, change settings etc (so that's done over wifi)
Pics confirmed as actually taken, they're on the camera SD card.
However if I started a mission, litchi reported mission start but motors (without props) didn't spin up.
(So prop start is done over 5.8)
likewise an auto take-off didn't start the props.
so to summarise-
5.8Ghz link controls the following phone/tablet commands-
prop start. (auto takeoff or mission)
Gimbal pitch.
2.4Ghz wifi link controls-
Mission load.
take photo/start video.
Controller link LED.
That makes sense, any phone commands you can also do with the controller are sent over 5.8Ghz.
Anything you can't do with the controller is done over wifi.
if anyone has any other checks they'd like tried please ask. I'm glad to help.
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RodPad
Premium Pilot
Thanks Rod, glad to help.
Yes, post 1 is most recent, though I need to update it to show a control line between Gimbal and main board for mission upload/wi-fi control, as some functions go that route.
Yes, post 1 is most recent, though I need to update it to show a control line between Gimbal and main board for mission upload/wi-fi control, as some functions go that route.
After Going Down the Github rabbit hole .... Boy... That Gave Me a Headache.....You need to update your Diagram...The Camera has 2 Boards in it... One is the Camera and Video Possessor, and the Other Has the Brains and Memory Storage for the Whole Drone and Software that Controls everything. as well as the Control of the USB Infrastructure and Control, all through the Gimble Cable...
I was having Problems of No Video Feed, after Flying on One Battery... After the Camera and Gimble got Hot, No Video Feed or Telemetry... But When Cold, Everything Worked.. The Camera got Hung Up, looking Down on the Gimble Protector, and over heated, before I could Land, from 400 ft...
I had Rolled My Firmware Back to the Best Version, after Replacing the Original Main Board was Locked up by DJI Firmware Power Restrictions..
I had thought the Problem was in the Gimble Control Board, which is also the Wifi 2 channel trans-reciever, yaw Controller...
Now I'm thinking, the New Gimble Control Board, from China, is out of Sink, in the Firmware Chain, with everything else, because no wifi between the RC and AC.
And Going Down the Rabbit Hole... It turns Out...One of the Control Boards in the Camera, that Controls Everything, may be the Culpret....To Many Moving Parts and it gives me a Headache...
Take a Nap....take a Fresh stab at it Later...
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