New P4P Owner, Multiple Questions

[EhmayWuntee]

This was just a few lines (2 - 4?) in a residential area, fairly low to the ground. I was standing under them with the RC and the AC went away from them from the start, never flew toward them or over them.

I can toss up a google street view image later if I remember. I just found it hard to believe that there was enough magnetic interference from a couple basic lines in my LOS to put me into atti mode.


On a positive note, I got my RMAed battery back today for my work drone so at least that process was easy and quick. I still need to charge it and am curious when I check it in the app if it will show any cycles or anything odd to make me think it isn’t a new replacement.


Lastly, I need to search for some iPad accessories. I think I want a screen protector to be safe and then either a sleeve or easy to remove case since I doubt the iPad will fit the stock cradle with a case on for added width/height. I am also going to get a short lightning to usb cable so excess doesn’t hang over, maybe a retractable one I saw. I’ve seen some say like MFI certified or similar, is that necessary for good signal and longevity, or can I cheap out on the cable? All iPad accessories seem expensive ...

 

[EhmayWuntee]

I need help from iPad owners, not sure if iPad 2017 specific.

Do these things have some sort of auto brightness setting that is hidden? I can’t find anything enabled, but when I was outside today to fly for 15 minutes I noticed the tablet was already set to max brightness. Not sure if DJI Go enabled it or there is a sensor that caught sunlight outside, but it surprised me. I keep the screen at 25% brightness so I know it moved on it’s own.

 

[loktite]

I need help from iPad owners, not sure if iPad 2017 specific.

Do these things have some sort of auto brightness setting that is hidden? I can’t find anything enabled, but when I was outside today to fly for 15 minutes I noticed the tablet was already set to max brightness. Not sure if DJI Go enabled it or there is a sensor that caught sunlight outside, but it surprised me. I keep the screen at 25% brightness so I know it moved on it’s own.

I've found the same with my hand-me-down iPad Air 2. There have been certain situations I'll manually increase the brightness, but it does auto-adjust. I haven't seen any option to enable/disable (nor have I really researched it).

 

[lmccluer]

I've found the same with my hand-me-down iPad Air 2. There have been certain situations I'll manually increase the brightness, but it does auto-adjust. I haven't seen any option to enable/disable (nor have I really researched it).

Not sure about IPads, but IPhones has a place in settings to change the brightness. It does have an auto setting , but can be overridden. You should be able to go to settings, then display and brightness, then you should see a slider to change the brightness level. You might also check to see if your using the latest IOS. Go to settings, general, then software update. Upon tapping software update, it will either tell you the IOS us current, or needs updating.

 

[EhmayWuntee]

Not sure about IPads, but IPhones has a place in settings to change the brightness. It does have an auto setting , but can be overridden. You should be able to go to settings, then display and brightness, then you should see a slider to change the brightness level. You might also check to see if your using the latest IOS. Go to settings, general, then software update. Upon tapping software update, it will either tell you the IOS us current, or needs updating.

Thanks for the details, I am new to apple so they help.

Software is up to date 11.2.2
Brightness basically has the slider and nothing else (besides night time filter crap).
I guess it’s forced on unless it’s a developer option. I’m fine with it as long as I realize it’s bright if outside. Don’t want to drain my battery all the time.

 

[EhmayWuntee]

Aha! Finally found it.

Settings - general - accessibility - display accommodations.

 

[EhmayWuntee]

I still haven't spent the Newegg gift card and Eggpoints credit for my work P4P and wanted some input.

I already have 2 batteries and I don't think I will utilize a 3rd in a single flight period. Would it be a good idea to buy a 3rd anyway so that I can rotate them more evenly (spread out the cycles), or would it be better to wait to buy a 3rd a year or more down the road so that it is brand new/fresh and would last longer? I guess I am asking, does charge cycles affect batteries the most or does general lifetime also have a big impact? I do plan to get the DJI charging hub with storage mode so I will do my best to keep them properly stored at 50% charge.

Does anyone have experience with the inexpensive aluminum cases? I don't think I can justify getting a $200 GPC case if I won't be using it extremely often, but I also don't want to waste $60 or so on an aluminum one if it is complete junk. I'm not really thinking a backpack would be the right choice for the work drone, but it did turn out decent for my personal one. If I decide to wait on the 3rd battery, I suppose I could push for the GPC hard case...

 

[loktite]

I would definitely recommend a 3rd battery.

 

[EhmayWuntee]

I would definitely recommend a 3rd battery.

Just for the sake of rotating batteries and keeping charge cycles low or why?

 

[loktite]

Mainly for rotating the batteries. Also for redundancy - suppose you develop an issue with a battery, either while under warranty or not, you don't have to go and purchase another immediately. plus.... You may not *think* you would use a third, but could easily surprise yourself wishing you had one (especially if it's cold out, when you get less runtime). To each his own though

 

[DOC 1500]

Is there something I am missing or do you have to swap to 5.8 GHz frequency every flight?

It will pretty much say too much disturbance and show lots of red bars on 2.4 yet it still picks it by default. 5.8 is empty.

I am considering ordering an Asus Zenpad 3S 10 to use for my personal drone, just checking for any red flags first. I have never been an Apple fan so unless there is some serious justification I will skip the 2017 iPad. I also figure it would be best to go with a 10" (9.7) screen and buy once than try some 8" model and potentially feel regret. Hopefully most aftermarket cases fit a 10" tablet.

In my opinion I think Asus sucks I got one then shortly thereafter bought the iPad 2017 much happier

 

[DOC 1500]

the iPad 2017 is 10 in works great

 

[EhmayWuntee]

the iPad 2017 is 10 in works great

Yea I did end up going with the iPad 2017 (9.7") since it was on sale for $250 at Target around Christmas. Only flown a few times with it so far, but it seems pretty nice.

 

[DOC 1500]

Got mine just before Christmas for 289

 

[EhmayWuntee]

I figured I would just continue on with this thread as I come up with other small and random questions.

Before every take-off I always verify my settings especially frequency and how the sensors look. I have noticed that sometimes my IMU will be in the red, but if I move it once or twice a few feet away, it will eventually go into the green and that's when I finally start it up and take off.

I have always done an IMU calibration after firmware updates, but do you think it need to do another again because something is off or what things throw the IMU out of spec that a simple movement of take-off location fixes?

I thought the compass is the one affected by metal and most of the time I am taking off from asphalt or grass surfaces and usually set the drone on my plastic case to get it raised up a bit if in grass or gravel. Am i correct that metal shouldn't be an issue for the IMU?

I am pretty sure its always a level or at least very close to level surface so if that was an issue it wouldn't be the reason for my results.

I believe there are 4 bars under the IMU sensor screen and only 2 might be in the red with the other 2 in super short green when I have this problem. If it is important to know which 2 are the ones that display a bad reading (or to be sure they are always the same 2) I will start to keep better track or take a photo the next time it pops up.

 

[Meta4]

I have always done an IMU calibration after firmware updates, but do you think it need to do another again because something is off or what things throw the IMU out of spec that a simple movement of take-off location fixes?

There's no need to recalibrate anything after a firmware update.

I thought the compass is the one affected by metal and most of the time I am taking off from asphalt or grass surfaces and usually set the drone on my plastic case to get it raised up a bit if in grass or gravel. Am i correct that metal shouldn't be an issue for the IMU?

Although people say metal, the compass isn't affected by metal.
It senses magnetic fields which can be associated with iron, steel or live electric cables.
There is nothing about steel or any other metal that should have any effect on the IMU.

 

[EhmayWuntee]

There's no need to recalibrate anything after a firmware update.


Although people say metal, the compass isn't affected by metal.
It senses magnetic fields which can be associated with iron, steel or live electric cables.
There is nothing about steel or any other metal that should have any effect on the IMU.

I thought I read somewhere to redo the IMU and maybe even compass calibration after every firmware update, I’ll look for it again to see if it had a reputable source. Maybe it’s only for those massive firmware updates that reset every single setting back to default. Other than updates, I do not recalibrate.

Any ideas why my IMU sensor state will be in orange or red then, but moving it a few feet or maybe even picking it up and setting it down again to refresh will eventually get me into the green? I think it’s gyro or something that is usually the problem one. I can’t remember if it’s always been like this or just since the last update or IMU calibration.

 

[Meta4]

I thought I read somewhere to redo the IMU and maybe even compass calibration after every firmware update, I’ll look for it again to see if it had a reputable source. Maybe it’s only for those massive firmware updates that reset every single setting back to default.

It's a common myth but DJI never have suggested it in their update instructions.
App version updates will reset some settings in the app to default values but firmware updates don't.

Any ideas why my IMU sensor state will be in orange or red then, but moving it a few feet or maybe even picking it up and setting it down again to refresh will eventually get me into the green? I think it’s gyro or something that is usually the problem one. I can’t remember if it’s always been like this or just since the last update or IMU calibration.

Sorry .. I've never had to do anything to my IMU so I don't have any experience.

 

[EhmayWuntee]

Time for a new question!

I still have research to do, but please help make sure I am on the right track here and assist with your opinion on a recommendation.

Tomorrow I am helping out a local small film company and shooting footage of a 5k mud run for them. They want 24fps footage since its cinematography and I already have limited video experience let alone low FPS like that. I did a test earlier today and I'm pretty sure the quick solution to what I am about to explain is that I need ND filters, but bear with me a moment.

Without ND filters and it being a sunny day I had to go with ISO 100, max aperture (f/11), and shutter speed all the way to 1/100th. Once the footage got up to a certain speed of flight I could see stutter or pulsing in the video. Am I correct that this is mostly due to the fact that I am at 1/100th and not 1/50th shutter speed? (Shutter too quick and is past the 2x frame rate rule of thumb)

Am I correct that ND filters, possibly ND16, is the main cure for this issue and I could then run a lower f-stop and the ideal 1/50th shutter speed?

For the time being, would shooting 48fps and still using 1/100 shutter speed be a good solution so that I meet the 2x frame rate? I have yet to get into post-processing video so I have no idea how difficult it is to convert or how good the footage looks once you convert the 48fps footage to 24fps to match other cameras and the movie/video in general.

If keeping 24fps is still a pretty big importance, then I just need to do my best to do very slow movements so that it avoids or at least limits the stutter and hope the runners by themselves won't be moving fast enough to cause stutter even if I was hovering. (I think my drone, the runners, or a combination of the two need to reach like 15 mph before the stutter starts to show up fairly bad, but this is an estimate)

Assuming I will record more for them in the future, can you please recommend me the ideal ND filter darknesses to where I don't need to spend money on 6 of them and rarely use 4 of the 6? I was thinking ND16 might be all I need or maybe 16 and either 32 or 8? From my brief initial research it seems like ND4 is pretty minimal to help (perhaps more for a cloudy day or dusk/dawn?) and ND8 isn't too far behind ND4, but ND32 might be too extreme unless you are filming over reflective snow or something?

Thanks everyone!

 

[Scottie74]

Is there something I am missing or do you have to swap to 5.8 GHz frequency every flight?

It will pretty much say too much disturbance and show lots of red bars on 2.4 yet it still picks it by default. 5.8 is empty.

I am considering ordering an Asus Zenpad 3S 10 to use for my personal drone, just checking for any red flags first. I have never been an Apple fan so unless there is some serious justification I will skip the 2017 iPad. I also figure it would be best to go with a 10" (9.7) screen and buy once than try some 8" model and potentially feel regret. Hopefully most aftermarket cases fit a 10" tablet.

I got a Huawei m3, and it works brilliantly, no problems at all. I have seen lots of complaints about other android tablets, but I am perfectly happy recommending the Huawei. As for size, a friend uses a 10 inch tablet, and personally, I find it to be too big for my liking. The smaller 7 or 8 inches feel a lot more comfortable on the controller to me, although that is personal preference I guess. It is plenty big enough for everything I do, and don't see the need for a bigger screen. But I guess you need to decide which is the one you prefer. Like I said, the size to me was more an issue about comfort and weight, over visuals