Maxxuav boosted install, did I do it right?

same deal

Anyway, it probably could be an amp issue again, if I move the antenna around, aim it at a mirror for example, you can see the right amp flickering just a little. It was probably doing that before with the other bad ones I had, so who really knows

at over 300 bucks just for the amplifiers (I have bought 3 so far) its just not worth the chance, I wanted what you have, 2 nice solid blue flickering lights, just like the instructions say :)

oh well
 
Jacob thinks because your DBS antenna has a smaller beamwidth, I assume the distance between the sending side and receiving side, its easier for both to show blue, with my bigger maxantenna its much wide and the crosstalk is wider.

Either way, we're going to wait until I get my drone back, I will do some serious testing, some penetration through trees, some long distance runs, I'll do my best to keep a log, including the healthydrones site. If it works it works and I'll be happy. if not, well he will still take the product back. Through over 70 emails now Jake from maxxuav.com has been non stop standing by his product and has been diligitantly on top of the issue at hand, so either way whatever happens, I still give props to this guy (just wish he worked at some other companies as well, lol could use his professionalsim)

Side note, I don't know why people say healthydrones signal indicator isn't a good reference to use to determine signal strength, for example I go out 1 mile it give me like 10 readings or something each one shows a #, that # is how many signal errors it got, the higher the # the worse, get to 70 or so and you start losing signal with like 110 complete loss of signal.

When I look at some people's setups that have these crazy tripods, their signal score will sometimes show 0, zero.

lol
anyway, thanks Pete again
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pete Leare
lol Shammyh, the professional who sells this stuff and all the thousands of others, disagrees with you ,lol

Well... Consensus doesn't imply correctness. Fortunately. Otherwise we'd still be living on a flat earth with the sun orbiting us. Also, if you'd like to cite your "thousands of others disagree with you" source, I'd be most obliged.

However... Since I am genuinely interested in the truth of this matter, rather than vitriol, I'll do some more in-depth testing this weekend with my rf explorer, and get a thread going on here dedicated to this very question. There are a few very-knowledgeable-with-RF folks around here (and much more informed than me), so I'll try to rope them into the discussion as well.

In the meantime... I'll simply state that boosting an antenna connection which is receive-only makes zero sense. What are you boosting if there is no transmitting signal? As I previously stated, at best, you're boosting the incoming signal from the drone. But you're also boosting all the accompanying noise.

Imagine it this way... If you're trying to hear your friend yelling at you across a loud and crowded room, and you can hear the overall noise fine, but can't make out your friend's voice from the crowd... Would increasing the volume of the entire room, including your friend's voice, help you hear him/her any better? Maybe? Maybe not.

In the best possible case, which I'm not even convinced is what's going on (assuming the amp is properly bi-directional), that's what you're doing. You're increasing the volume of everyone yelling, not just your drone yelling. Take a look at the signal graph in DJI Go with and without the amp on the Rx port. See for yourself what happens...

But anyway, as I say, I'll look into this further, and see if we can't get some expert consensus from people who don't directly financially benefit from your being wrong.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pete Leare
when I say thousands, I'm stretching, obviously. But I've read almost all the posts of people who have set ups, they all have 2 amps, I've scoured the internet about the subject and found just as many other people with Phantom 3's and boosted setups, they all have 2 amps, I also found the companies online selling these kits, they comes with 2 amps not 1

FPVLR Phantom 3 Advanced Antenna Kit for PRO & ADVANCED

not just maxxuav,
https://www.amazon.com/DJI-Phantom-...10983&sr=8-32&keywords=phantom+3+boosters+kit
plus, looking at the amplifier prices on the websites, they are no more expensive then that of retail, so why push out for two amps? there is a reason why the people going the max distance have 2 amps, some I think can even add more some how.
 
when I say thousands, I'm stretching, obviously. But I've read almost all the posts of people who have set ups, they all have 2 amps, I've scoured the internet about the subject and found just as many other people with Phantom 3's and boosted setups, they all have 2 amps, I also found the companies online selling these kits, they comes with 2 amps not 1

FPVLR Phantom 3 Advanced Antenna Kit for PRO & ADVANCED

not just maxxuav,
Amazon.com: DJI Phantom 3 ULTIMATE Range Booster Kit: Computers & Accessories
plus, looking at the amplifier prices on the websites, they are no more expensive then that of retail, so why push out for two amps? there is a reason why the people going the max distance have 2 amps, some I think can even add more some how.

Even if the price is the same as retail price elsewhere, there is still a profit margin, or else the vendors wouldn't be selling them at all. Just because they don't charge more than Amazon, doesn't mean there isn't a markup associated with the item as compared to what the dealer paid per unit. Amazon prices are not wholesale/bulk prices. Retail 101. You buy for x price, you sell for x + y price. Y is your per unit profit. Broadly speaking.

So... If I sell you two widgets rather than one, and I make a profit per widget sold, I now make 2x my total profit, if I convince you that you need two widgets instead of one. Not all that complicated. And unless a vendor would like to chime in and say they're selling their amps at a loss... Well, the math is incontrovertible.

Now... I don't want to finger point (as the vendors may have no malicious intent at all), and again, I may well still be wrong about all of this, but it's a factual matter that all of these vendors have a direct financial interest in you believing that you need two widgets (or amplifiers) instead of one.

I also ran two amps myself for a good while, since, as you state, that's what everyone else was doing. Still doesn't mean it was the most efficacious and/or efficient method.
 
Last edited:
im not opposed to the discussion at all, I think it's interesting, but the only reason all of these people would be running two amps and the companies selling them has to amount to something. It cannot be for the very small profit, while this is a very small community and the ones like us going for range/better signal is even smaller, it wouldn't be much of a scandal. I'm open ears, either way. I just think two amps is better then one from all the reviews I've read.

so what is your set up then? how are you running your rig?
 
I thought this to, but its not correct
I am correct. Your first thought was correct. You are now wrong.
One is for control, the other for receiving video.
Think about it. The quad transmits a signal back to the remote. It will need an antenna to receive that signal.
 
im not opposed to the discussion at all, I think it's interesting, but the only reason all of these people would be running two amps and the companies selling them has to amount to something. It cannot be for the very small profit, while this is a very small community and the ones like us going for range/better signal is even smaller, it wouldn't be much of a scandal. I'm open ears, either way. I just think two amps is better then one from all the reviews I've read.

so what is your set up then? how are you running your rig?

I run one of the newer style gold 3W amps, and usually the FPVLR v3 eliptically polarized antennas. I also have an original itelite patch antenna which I occasionally use.

I ordered my P3P shortly after launch, so it's an original model and I have the GL300A controller, though I also have another GL300B as an unmodified spare.

Have about 27 in-air flight hours on my bird and have covered about 200 miles. Have flown in many locations, and even done two trips abroad with it. Zero crashes, zero issues at all in fact (minus a single mid flight 5 second compass error), and while I did have the dreaded stress cracks at about 30 flights in, I replaced the shell myself, and have not had any structural issues since.

I also fly a hacked up P2V+ modified with my own special sauce wifi extender, and a H4-3D and a Hero 4 black.

Dji was my entry to the RC world, so I'm not a seasoned veteran, but I do have a little experience under my belt.

When I ran my dual amp setup, back with the black 3W sunhans, I noticed that after a while, without any modifications to the controller, or even the connections themselves, I went from two blinking blue lights, to one. But it got even better, disconnecting one of the amps power connections (back when both were blue) on the Tx port, would make the other one stop blinking as well. But if you pulled the power on the Rx amp, nothing changed, aka still blue, on the Tx amp.

So, wtf is going on? My guess was this:

Cross talk! The Tx amp is throwing out so much RF, especially for sometimes not overly well shielded cables/connectors, it was actually bledding over into the Rx side. Hence... The Rx amp was "hearing" the Tx signal from its own same controller, and blinking.

Notice how the amp led patterns don't change when the drone is on or off? Isn't that strange? Since the led on the amp *should* be reacting to that incoming lightbridge signal? But it isn't. It's reacting to the output signal from the Tx channel right next to it.

If you are only seeing one amp blink, you're probably using higher quality cables/connections and/or you took care in installing your controller connections and cable routing, and managed to minimize the crosstalk.

Like I said.... More empirical data is needed. I still have my older black amps, and tons of cables, connectors, and some spare antennas, and my rf explorer can also act as an rf noise generator... So if I have some time this weekend, I'll do some investigation and document my findings. Then I'll open up a new thread, and see if we can't get to the bottom of this whole question.
 
I am correct. Your first thought was correct. You are now wrong.
One is for control, the other for receiving video.
Think about it. The quad transmits a signal back to the remote. It will need an antenna to receive that signal.

Unfortunately, while I do agree in overall conclusion, a single physical antenna can be used for both transmit and receive.

I don't believe that's the way the P3 controller is designed, but you can't tell by visual inspection alone. Hence why I hooked my rf explorer directly up to my controller, and tested each port individually. Found the FHSS signal on one port, and nothing on the other.

On the quad itself, I belive two antennas are Tx and two are Rx.

Still, questions remain. Like how are the SDK commands send to the bird? Via the FHSS signal? Doesn't seem too likely, but don't know for sure.

Again, further testing is required.
 
My experience and ongoing search for the ultimate phantom has turned into a addiction for range and signal strength. But in testing and using amps on the remote side that only one is useful to increase range on the out signal side only. And I use a Dbs panel for antenna for that amp and that's all I need because the real problem is video dropping out..so for video in signal on remote I've found that I always end up back to the same setup no matter how much money I spend that my big old immersonrc 2.4 13dbi panel without amp has Ben the best receiver setup I've tried so far.. I've tried em all and now I'm building a few with great success..and with all my unused amps laying around that there best use is on the phantom itself so I remove the amp from the heavy *** caseings and cut stock antenna off the solder cable from phantom dirrectly two the amp PCB . Then I use copper tape and build a new lightweight case . I power both of them directly from the phantoms main board by just soldering the amp power cables that I cut up and that keeps all the wires inside the phantom and out to the legs. and I zip tie them to the phantom.. so now it's just down to finding the best bird side antenna .. so that's my mission lately and it always ends up with the two fpvlr half spirals that I chopped up to fit on front and back side of bird.. it's not pretty but it is the best I've tried to date..Amps on the two video antennas on the birdside is the best for reliable steady clean signal ive found to date.. I have two big boxes of scrap antenna and amp parts now plus a few broken p3 birds and remotes.. that second amp on remote I definitally useless. And the range on the light bridge is unreal. after spending a butt load of $$ on this new addiction for range ..I always end up with two birdside amps( currently using 2-4w blackbird type I got of eBay). And 2-fpvlr half spirals connected to each birdside amp is unreal.. I cant get more than 1/4 mile before rth were I live and fly. Now I fly out 2.5-3 miles before I get signal drop.. trees hills and homes are my trouble.. it's definitely worth amping the bird video .. figure I'd add my 2 cents

Sent from my XT1585 using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
  • Like
Reactions: HWCM
Thanks for your input. I'd love to see pictures of the drone with the antenna's on it.
Also would love for some of the guys from that 70 page thread, where I've seen countless "records" achieved and them having two amps.
 
Thanks for your input. I'd love to see pictures of the drone with the antenna's on it.
Also would love for some of the guys from that 70 page thread, where I've seen countless "records" achieved and them having two amps.

In ideal conditions, you can actually hit the conservative RTH limit (~3-4 mi) with stock antennas. But it's gotta really be close to ideal. (good LoS, quiet noise floor, good atmospheric conditions, etc)

I *believe* boosted or not, with high gain antennas properly aimed, you can hit the max 1-way distance of the UAS itself. That's about 8 mi stock, 15-20 mi with extra mAh on board. After that, distance is irrelevant. Amp on the bird-side is really needed in urban areas though.

Aka, there is practical upper bound for antenna "range" on the P3/P4 platform. There are likely many disparate antenna configurations that satisfy this upper limit of range. I bet some of them use two amps. Still doesn't mean it's the best/most efficient way. I know it's crazy/sad but its really possible that from the controller-side, anyone using more than one amp really is adding nothing.
 
Maybe someone has covered this already, but I have modded many remotes, and the problem with Maxxuav setup is an easy fix.... You just need a different battery. The one provided only puts out 1a continuous juice, you need 2a... any standard will work


QUOTE="fastfed, post: 882759, member: 67028"]Installed the new boosted setup on my Maxxantenna, I think I installed it right

Haven't given it a proper test yet, but plan to tonight

20160725_205927_zpsxjhruowx.jpg


20160725_205910_zpsqeickzhf.jpg


20160725_205905_zpssbkdsd94.jpg
[/QUOTE]
 

Recent Posts

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
143,094
Messages
1,467,600
Members
104,980
Latest member
ozmtl