Just adjusted the focus of my P3P... WOW!!

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I followed this guide to sharpen it.

DJI-0002 is the before and DJI-0005 is the after. Wow, a remarkable difference. I haven't tested it outside yet though but it can't be worse than what it was. Check out the before and afters.
Screenshot 2016-12-17 00.59.03.png Screenshot 2016-12-17 00.58.53.png Screenshot 2016-12-17 00.58.42.png Screenshot 2016-12-17 00.58.31.png
 

alokbhargava

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It needs good control over your hand. Good job.


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Take a look here and decide how close you want it to be focused. You might not get the "infinite focus" right so you will be focused to close and the distant far objects blurry. (out of focus)

Fixed-focus lens - Wikipedia

Hyperfocal distance - Wikipedia

:)

This is what you want to achieve:

Definition 1: The hyperfocal distance is the closest distance at which a lens can be focused while keeping objects at infinity acceptably sharp. When the lens is focused at this distance, all objects at distances from half of the hyperfocal distance out to infinity will be acceptably sharp.

Remember: Mathematically there is just one focal plane, thin as an equation.
 
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Thanks for the links bernek. I know I may not have infinite focus and that you should adjust the any lens according to the distance most used. I do know that it wasn't close to being sharp before and that stills especially were brutal. I just couldn't believe how it easy it is compared to micro adjusting a DSLR lens.
 
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Thanks for the links bernek. I know I may not have infinite focus and that you should adjust the any lens according to the distance most used. I do know that it wasn't close to being sharp before and that stills especially were brutal. I just couldn't believe how it easy it is compared to micro adjusting a DSLR lens.

Then it is a success story for your particular case :) I'm glad you are happy with the results. I worked on some Nikkor and Tokina lenses and yes they are a pain ...
 
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I followed this guide to sharpen it.

DJI-0002 is the before and DJI-0005 is the after. Wow, a remarkable difference. I haven't tested it outside yet though but it can't be worse than what it was. Check out the before and afters.
View attachment 71058 View attachment 71059 View attachment 71060 View attachment 71061
Great improvement indeed!
As pointed out by bernek the hyperfocal is crucial, otherwise you could have a good focus on close objects but the infinite out of focus, that on aerial photography is not the best setting at all...
I need to do this adjustment too, my focus especially in the center is very very soft..
 
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Well it's done. A couple of before and afters, an 8 shot panorama, and a orbit video of my house in 4k. I'm much happier now.
The house shot you can read the numbers now but before they were a blur. The selfie is self explanatory. No sharpening done to these.
Screenshot 2016-12-17 16.42.10.png
Screenshot 2016-12-17 16.41.40.png

Video with no ND filters or sharpening added.
 
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What's the procedure to adjust the focus? Have a link?

Oops- just saw the Guide link at top of post.
Thx

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Due to your post I checked several footage for focus problems.
I assume I'm still happy with the cameras focus on my P3P, not sure whether I will benefit of trying to get sharper footage.
I think I better keep my hands off it.
Anyway thanks for sharing your work.
 
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Vichian if you're happy with it then that's all that matter. It's strange I have some footage that's sharper than others before I "fixed" it. I did some filming over a snow covered field and golf course that because of the lack of sharpness, no amount of sharpening was going to help. From my samples you can definitely see how bad mine really was. Thankfully it was as easy as removing 4 screws, taping up some targets, and loosening 2 screws.
 
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It's strange I have some footage that's sharper than others before I "fixed" it.

That I also realized when going through my footage today, hence i checked the properties and realized some where captured in 4K and others in full HD.
I'm sure I did not (intentionally) change any settings in this period, but the quality is slightly different.

But as you mentioned, as long I'm fine and happy, that's all that matters.
 
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On one of my P3 Pros I do think I've an area lower left that is softer than the rest of the frame-
Here's a question- on dslrs if you have a dust spot or problem area say Lower Left, when cleaning the sensor you look in the upper right for the spot. The way lenses work is the image gets projected upside down onto the sensor. The two mirrors internally flip the image back for your eye to see right side up.
Is it the same on the P3 camera? I would think So- and if so that means if the Lower left of the image is soft you need to nudge the board up and right to move the sharp center spot into position.
Yes? Or no?
 
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Vichian if you're happy with it then that's all that matter. It's strange I have some footage that's sharper than others before I "fixed" it. I did some filming over a snow covered field and golf course that because of the lack of sharpness, no amount of sharpening was going to help. From my samples you can definitely see how bad mine really was. Thankfully it was as easy as removing 4 screws, taping up some targets, and loosening 2 screws.
What distance is the closest you should put targets up for this lens? What is the closest the P3 should appear sharp?
Ideally I'd like targets in all four corners and one in center to really judge correctly.
Or find a nice textured wall, or a billboard with lots of type to make it easy to see if it's sharp or not.
 
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I used targets by Bob Atkins if you want to google him. I had the targets about 14 feet away but ideally they'd be a bit further but then the targets would need to be bigger because I don't think the lens can resolve that kind of detail from further away.
If the image is soft, mine was soft on the left side, I actually loosened the two screws on the right side then slowly tightened them. I think it's more that the flexibility of the circuit board with the sensor on it and DJI's lax tolerances are the problem. Tightening and loosening the screws changes the sensor to lens height ever so little that it affects the sharpness. When I did my test I used a halogen work light so that I could shoot easily at ISO100 as well because you it's easier to see fine detail at lower ISO's. Ideally, you should do this outside in the sunlight as different wavelengths of light focus at different points if you want to be really picky. I always focus test my DSLR lenses outside in the light I primarily use them in.
 
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Difference is quite apparent on your circling the house pics,
sharpness of your str.#;sfor example, really show the success of your efforts, eh!
****, your going to make me take my baby apart now!
 
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Flowerider- can you elaborate on the loosening and tightening of the processor board screws? Did you loosen them just until obviously "loose" then tighten down until first resistance- to make sure not Overtight? Or was your theory that they weren't tight Enough compared to the left side?
Or what? How did you decide what was tight enough?
And I believe you're saying- at least in your case- the lens wasn't the issue, just the uneven tightness of the board. Yes?


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I took this one step further and removed the lens and freed it from the lock position and adjusted. Wow what an incredible difference. So happy with the camera now[emoji41]




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Flowerider- can you elaborate on the loosening and tightening of the processor board screws? Did you loosen them just until obviously "loose" then tighten down until first resistance- to make sure not Overtight? Or was your theory that they weren't tight Enough compared to the left side?
Or what? How did you decide what was tight enough?
And I believe you're saying- at least in your case- the lens wasn't the issue, just the uneven tightness of the board. Yes?


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I followed the guide and just worked from corner to corner. 1/4 turn loosening at a time then popping it into the computer to look at on the screen. It took a bit of time for sure.
 

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