Hotmelt motor wires ESC

[Wibble]

The problem using something rigid like epoxy is you are just moving the stress point further along the wire.

 

[mad in nc]

........After the crash I did see two motor wires that were not attached. One of the two wires had a chunk of solder attached to it and the rest of the solder was still on the board. The other wire that was not attached was broken off at the point where it comes in contact with the solder. ...................

Sounds to me like cold solder joint's... i.e.. not enough heat to "flow" all and bond together.

caused by rushing, no quality etc.. if the one wire was "pulled" out as you say, the simple check after the motor was solder by the DJI facility would have been a pull/ tug on the wire when it cooled down. Thats "soldering 101 basics no matter who taught you how to do it, even Mr. Wizard... if would have failed then when pulled vs. a 237ft. drop to your point Frank...

so do what you all want but I can't believe in this time of micro electronics and then even 5A flowing through a 4" wire/ 22/26 ga. people are posting to "Hot melt, glue, expoy..." and expect to maintain circuit integrity.

I'm off this thread. Pls don't "hot melt" and fly in my state of NC which is PRO - drone!

 

[Mopar Bob]

One of the two wires had a chunk of solder attached to it and the rest of the solder was still on the board. The other wire that was not attached was broken off at the point where it comes in contact with the solder.

If it is true about a yellow mark was indeed on the esc part, that opens the possibility the failure was my fault and would have to be from too much heat at the time of soldering that wire. Nothing else would make sense in my opinion. So if I actually was the culprit, this is why I now would like to focus on reducing vibrations at the point. especially now that I know just how sensitive to heat these wires might be.

Frank, I still do not think the over heating while soldering is the issue. I have been soldering components for a very long time and the only issue with over heating while soldering is burning out a component that is near or attached to the component being soldered. The extreme over heating that would require the wire to become brittle would be more than the average person would apply to it. I am convinced the problem has to be with the fact that the wire leads are solid wire and not stranded wire. A good engineer would never apply a solid connection to anything that vibrates even a little bit. It could be an electrical connection or a plumbing connection. They all suffer the same fate as they vibrate. For example, I paint cars as part of my hobby. I have a huge compressor that feeds 50 feet of copper piping that eventually is connected to a series of filters and finally the air hose to the guns. The connection from the compressor to the copper pipe is through a flexible steel braided hose. If it wasn't the copper pipe would have cracked a long time ago. Same holds true for the electrical connection from the motor to the ESCs. No matter how well that is soldered, it will crack. And that is what I think happened to yours. You will never get DJI to admit to it however. Also, soldering versus not: The only way to get a good connection is to solder it. With silver solder if you have it. Gluing it, or whatever other method has been discussed here is just plain nonsense. I also think the best way to mitigate the vibration is to use the old motors with the stranded wires. But if people want to continue down that path, then using electronics grade silicone on the joint area may help dissipate the vibrations. For me, I am using the new motors as paper weights. Sorry this is so long winded!

 

[RichWest]

Wow this got way off... The Hot melt, Hot Glue or RTV was for creating a dampener at the wire's termination, above the solder joint. Am I on the right page????

When I researched a few months ago, about building motors, the builders described the need to keep the insulation tight to the solder ball. They were saying even an 1/8"+ of the wire exposed would fatigue and break at that point. In what amount of time I don't know. My "old" original motors are that way, very little exposed wire.

The motor builders were obsessed with vibration. Even though the winding wire is coated with a dielectric film, they would pour an epoxy over the windings to prevent the wires from abrading each other. We are talking big RC plane motors that are expensive.

 

[Wibble]

Wow this got way off... The Hot melt, Hot Glue or RTV was for creating a dampener at the wire's termination, above the solder joint. Am I on the right page????

When I researched a few months ago, about building motors, the builders described the need to keep the insulation tight to the solder ball. They were saying even an 1/8"+ of the wire exposed would fatigue and break at that point. In what amount of time I don't know. My "old" original motors are that way, very little exposed wire.

The motor builders were obsessed with vibration. Even though the winding wire is coated with a dielectric film, they would pour an epoxy over the windings to prevent the wires from abrading each other. We are talking big RC plane motors that are expensive.

Rich

You are quite right - people obviously misread my post somewhat - I wasn't advocating just glue on a phantom!
There was an occasion when we needed to do this in industry and it actually worked but it was very low voltage and current going to a potentiometer.
My whole point in mentioning hotmelt was in stress relief.

 

[max]

Shoot sorry, I thought the solder was failing. Edited my Post

 

[burlbark]

I am quite capable of soldering these - my worry is that I have found that solder will wick up a braided or multicore wire and turn it into a solid one. That is why I have often used hotmelt in the past.

The solder will not wick all the way up the braided wire. It will only go as far as the heat. In this case not very far, maybe a quarter of an inch with a fine tip set at 420c. We are just trying to get a flexible joint in place and the larger the possible bend radius within the limits of weight and space.

And to the other posters in the thread......

They dont break at the motor they break at the esc and this has been explained. Adding flexible wire does not add an additional failure point. That would be like saying soldering the esc's to the main board is going to make them fail, its just illogical

I am glad we are all starting to come on board with this broken wire problem. Myself and Hani had been seeing it but we had not definitively isolated it. We knew the wires where breaking but did not know for certain if the esc's where also causing an issue.

Now that DJI has acknowledged the problem and issued the 2.1 esc we can get back to fixing this problem. I have seen customers birds running the new motors with 2.0 esc's without any issue. This includes no overheating, some 2.0 may have been flashed for the new motors. But to end all confusion the 2.1 esc should be in place.

Jeremy James

PS: Flynfrank gave us hell over the purposed hardwire fix and now he had his drop because of it.... Sorry it happened to you. I really am. :geek:

 

[hunch]

i was just wondering...
when did FlyFrank become an expert on changing the wires on the 2312 motors when he was the one who was fighting this idea
from the get go when Jeremy (burlbark) and myself were talking about this couple months ago when i opened a whoop *** can of worms in this thread.....

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=32368&hilit=hunch

with some people you just can't win...

#shakemyhead

:mrgreen:

 

[RichWest]

I had no clue what types of hot melt were available, my only experience was with hobby store variety. 3M makes a wide range of purposed hot melt. For temps well beyond what I expected, up to 130C resistant. Anyway, I'd use hot melt for the purpose of dampening the vibration at the wire termination. Watched an old video showing the build of an F450, they showed using hot glue to protect the motor lead connections to the main board.

I now believe the "white glue" in and around the P2V+ is a hot melt material. Always thought it was an RTV type adhesive...learned something new.

You two guys need to chill out. :?