Thanks for the feedback!
1) The newer DJI SDK actually detects the type of bird, so this type of issue will be resolved soon.
2) first part yes, you can use current camera settings in GO. Bracketing is another story, we're still investigating how to include bracketing, but right now we're spending most of our time making sure that the proper sequence of images is captured without any duplicates or holes. We continue to run into challenges related to timing capabilities of the SDK, but we're thinking we've finally hacked out a workaround to ensure accurate shots.
Thanks again for the thorough feedback!
Can you please clarify the first part where you state
can use the current Camera Settings from DJI GO?
1. Did you mean only the JPG or JPG+DNG or DNG setting?
2. Are you not able to retain the Camera Shutter Mode setting, among the 5 mode options available, if any one of them is selected, other than single shot?
3. If not, why not? Wouldn't that enable inclusion of AE bracketing, if selected in DJI GO?
4. Did you mean that you can also select
manual exposure settings in DJI GO and they will be used, rather than auto?
My view of DronePan is simply to automate the capturing of the images (the type of and settings for that you have already
pre-configured and customized in DJI GO) by simply rotating the craft 60° after each capture, and then adjusting the gimbal elevation by 30° to complete the 20 image sequence. Donepan itself should not be altering or controlling the camera settings.
5. How are you ending up with any holes or duplicates?
Six shots at 60° intervals gives full coverage of 360° when the camera has a 90° FOV, leaving 15% overlap on each side. If that
isn't enough overlap, then do 8 shots at 45° intervals, which provides 22.5° of overlap on each side, which is what I do manually, because it is easy to do, using the red compass arrow as an hour hand on a clock, starting at 12, then 1/2 way to 3, then 3, then 1/2 way to 6, then 6, etc.
Still confused about the problems you are encountering, as this is quite easy to do manually, and all you should be doing is automating the rotation and gimbal elevation changes.
6. I also still haven't understood why the two bottom images are 180° to each other instead of 90°. If they are 180° from each other, it's the same image, just upside down, and therefore a duplicate. I actually shoot a full 8 shot sequence straight down, rotating every 45°. Can you please explain your thinking and methodology here?