Comparing dynamic range of P4P and M2P within DJI Go 4 on tablet

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I fly my P4Pv1 and M2P using the same Samsung tablet. One difference I've noticed since adding the P4P to the mix is the apparent lack of dynamic range when viewed in-app, while flying. If I'm flying the P4P (especially early or late in the day) with the camera set horizontally it's capturing some bright sky on top and comparatively darker ground beneath. When the camera is left in automatic mode it tends to favor keeping the sky closer to correctly exposed and makes the areas below the horizon line rather dark, fading to black, almost useless. I typically have to run the gimbal down, putting the horizon near the top of the frame, that way the ground beneath is exposed well enough to see details (such as the top of a tree I'm about to run into). I really feel like the M2P has a better on-screen/in-app dynamic range where I have enough usable exposure above and below the horizon.

I know the P4P is using Lightbridge opposed to Occusync and I've read the video output to the controller/tablet is 720p compared to the Occusync's 1080, not sure if that accounts for what I'm seeing. If a deal comes along on a P4Pv2 I think I'd be inclined to upgrade just due to the longer distance controller ability, regaining improved dynamic range while flying would be a nice boost too.

Thoughts?
 
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Hello Scuba,

I dealt with same issues with our P3P. The building and ground levels were too dark for the most part even on overcast days.

I recommend trying these settings in the link. If you Photoshop your work as our designers do working with lighter and less noise images gives better option for post-production editing. Even if you don't use post-production toolsets, you may find these setting in some manner helpful in achieving results so that you will not cut out the sky so much.

Also try using Photoshop Express for better visual fidelity.


Good luck,
David
 
That's life with Phantom cameras, they do not have great DR. However, it is the same with any camera to varying degrees. Learn to take two exposures and blend them in post (if you are making photographs). And, you'll be surprised how good highlight and shadow recovery works.
 
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Firstly, do not rate pictures on the basis of transmitted lo-res images. The relevant picture is that from the card on a bigger screen with at least 1080 pix. or more.
Secondly, as Jeffrey said no camera can replace natural eye. But best of them can get very close to that.
The best solution at such heavily contrasted pictures or video is a gradual ND filter.
 
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Have you tried switching the Camera Profile to D-Cinelilke? Huge difference in dynamic range.
For video its really helpful. But the realtime viewing on screen is helped too.
But only do this if you are shooting RAW stills (I always do) or intend to do some Post processing in video. It is lower contrast and saturation - but that gives you both High and Low end range and you can bring it back to your liking in post.
Only if its a pretty flat day do I shoot in Normal mode anymore. And then I turn the contrast down -2 or -3.
 
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Have you tried switching the Camera Profile to D-Cinelilke? Huge difference in dynamic range.
For video its really helpful. But the realtime viewing on screen is helped too.
But only do this if you are shooting RAW stills (I always do) or intend to do some Post processing in video. It is lower contrast and saturation - but that gives you both High and Low end range and you can bring it back to your liking in post.
Only if its a pretty flat day do I shoot in Normal mode anymore. And then I turn the contrast down -2 or -3.

I think this is a good idea, wasn't hoping to have to post-edit everything but it's worth a shot. Thanks for the tip!
 
For better flight range try using 5.8ghz with a parabolic dish for more distance. I can get over 3 miles with LOS connection from my P4P-V1 craft.
I did toss a cheap parabolic into my Amazon cart recently, can't say there's a definitive improvement. With my Spark I can at least see a repeatable (though minor) improvement when adding the parabolics. I must admit I haven't specifically tried to combine it with the 5.8Ghz range, I'll give it a whirl. That said, I don't have any issue when it's open country/direct line-of-sight, it's when it dips behind a few trees or a building that gets me. Frankly I'm surprised by the number of reviews I read online comparing version 1 and version 2, flat out stating there isn't much improvement jumping from Lightbridge to Occusync. Occusync 2 on my M2P is basically magic, blows the P4P and my Spark out of the water.
 
I did toss a cheap parabolic into my Amazon cart recently, can't say there's a definitive improvement. With my Spark I can at least see a repeatable (though minor) improvement when adding the parabolics. I must admit I haven't specifically tried to combine it with the 5.8Ghz range, I'll give it a whirl. That said, I don't have any issue when it's open country/direct line-of-sight, it's when it dips behind a few trees or a building that gets me. Frankly I'm surprised by the number of reviews I read online comparing version 1 and version 2, flat out stating there isn't much improvement jumping from Lightbridge to Occusync. Occusync 2 on my M2P is basically magic, blows the P4P and my Spark out of the water.
I really like to see some of those pictures of M2P which, as you said, blows out the P4P!
 
Sorry, obviously didn't catch the point. I thought we are talking about the dynamic range of the picture e.g.- High density!
So this is completely different story.
 

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