Banana Amp Split

805hd · Mar 7, 2017

P3S w/ DBS antenna.

Currently doing my homework on amplifiers..

Question, could one use a single signal amplifier for both 2.4g using a couple of 2 into 1 SMA splitters? Split from the controller into amp then from the amp out to the DBS antenna?

I searched around and didn't find much on the subject, which probably answers my question. The only reason I felt it worth asking is because it appears to me that both 2.4g although separate, share the same panel within the DBS antenna?

Thanks!
Really been enjoying this forum you guys are awesome!

Matts175 · Mar 7, 2017

You could technically use 1 amp on the 2.4ghz side of the DBS (no splitter, just leave 1 side unamplified), but guys have reported better performance using 2.

I would forget about the splitter idea.

Were you looking to only run 1 because of cost? Or was it to save room? If it was cost.... you don't HAVE to buy Sunhans. These ones work very well, from what I've read.

Professional 2.4GHZ 4W Wifi Wireless Broadband Amplifier Router Signal Booster O | eBay

EDUP AB007 Broadband Amplifier 2.4GHz Wireless Router Network WiFi Signal Booste | eBay

805hd · Mar 8, 2017

Matts175 said:
You could technically use 1 amp on the 2.4ghz side of the DBS (no splitter, just leave 1 side unamplified), but guys have reported better performance using 2.

I would forget about the splitter idea.

Were you looking to only run 1 because of cost? Or was it to save room? If it was cost.... you don't HAVE to buy Sunhans. These ones work very well, from what I've read.

Thanks for the reply! And yes more of a money thing. I figured that much on the splitter idea but was just curious.

I've seen those boosters around. Just figured there is a reason 90% of the set ups out there, with any real evidence of success are running the sunhans. I guess the difference in price makes me skeptical? Perhaps that's just me and my weirdness.. lol

Guess I'll start with just 1 amp on the 2.4 and bump it up to two if I feel it's needed.

k9time · Mar 8, 2017

1 and 1 work great. Thought I've never tried 3 this works for me. Like you will add a 3rd if it becomes necessary but right now battery runs out before signal in the country.

805hd · Mar 8, 2017

k9time said:
View attachment 77946
1 and 1 work great. Thought I've never tried 3 this works for me. Like you will add a 3rd if it becomes necessary but right now battery runs out before signal in the country.

Excellent, this is what I wanted to hear. Clean setup btw!

dan84uk · Mar 8, 2017

The cheap 4w amps are actually pretty good.

Dont bother with a battery pack to power them, get a car jump starter. Same price, but you have 12v and 5v usbs too, charges via any usb charger. And you can start your car with it as a bonus. Buy the cheap accessory socket and splice into it.

Amazon.com: [Ultra Compact] DBPOWER 300A Peak 8000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (for Gas Engine up to 2.5L) Auto Battery Booster Charger Phone Power Bank Built-in LED Flashlight (Black/Red): Automotive

805hd · Mar 8, 2017

dan84uk said:
The cheap 4w amps are actually pretty good.

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Dont bother with a battery pack to power them, get a car jump starter. Same price, but you have 12v and 5v usbs too, charges via any usb charger. And you can start your car with it as a bonus. Buy the cheap accessory socket and splice into it.

Amazon.com: [Ultra Compact] DBPOWER 300A Peak 8000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (for Gas Engine up to 2.5L) Auto Battery Booster Charger Phone Power Bank Built-in LED Flashlight (Black/Red): Automotive

Thanks! I did look into these last night but ended up pulling the trigger on the sunhans.

The jumper pack is a great idea. Might have to look into that! Couldn't use it for it's intended purpose though. We don't even own a car under 5L because well, AMERICA! That thing might power the radio in my truck haha!

Thank you for the suggestion, it's appreciated. I'll take a look.

solentlife · Mar 8, 2017

I know guys who bought the Jumper packs to start boat engines .... and I'm talking 20 - 50HP inboard aux's on sailboats. Not one managed it.
The packs became mobile charger packs in the end !!

I know the one I saw opened up was obvious to not be man enough for it.

The total capacity was added up but not for the 12V as advertised ... well shall we say hinted at !! ... it was if the cells only punched out the single cell voltage. But if you wanted the full total voltage - the capacity was as per one cell !! Anyone with S / P rated LiPo's will understand it ...

I am not saying all are like that ... but the ones I see are.

Anyway - if you want to power Boosters - best way is LiFe packs ... they can be charged up and left unlike LiPo ... they are small and compact.
I have a 1700mAh 2S LiFe pack which is 55 x 34 x 30mm and weighs 32gr. Its actually an RC model Rx pack to power the radio gear.

Turnigy nano-tech 1700mAh 2S2P 20~40C LiFePo4 Receiver Pack

A simple $3 uBEC if needed to cut to 5V and away you go .... for less than $15.

Nigel

Vega · Mar 8, 2017

Hey guys, while on the subject, does anyone know what happens to our RC or Bird if the amp battery dies while flying? RTH? thanks

solentlife · Mar 8, 2017

If signal is lost (5.8Ghz) ... it will RTH or Hover or Land - depending on what setting you made. Or if you are running autonomous Litchi mission.

If signal is lost (2.4Ghz) - it will most likely hover as you will stand there looking at a screen that is stuck - wondering what to do. Hit S2 switch and trigger RTH is best idea then as control is still there (5.8Ghz).

If the Booster amp is also PASS-THROUGH capable if not powered - then you may be lucky and signal still holds allowing you to continue. But at great distance booster enables - even that will most likely not have enough power to maintain control. RTH is the answer.

Nigel

dan84uk · Mar 8, 2017

solentlife said:
I know guys who bought the Jumper packs to start boat engines .... and I'm talking 20 - 50HP inboard aux's on sailboats. Not one managed it.
The packs became mobile charger packs in the end !!

I know the one I saw opened up was obvious to not be man enough for it.

The total capacity was added up but not for the 12V as advertised ... well shall we say hinted at !! ... it was if the cells only punched out the single cell voltage. But if you wanted the full total voltage - the capacity was as per one cell !! Anyone with S / P rated LiPo's will understand it ...

I am not saying all are like that ... but the ones I see are.

Nigel

The one i recommended works perfectly, thoroughly tested it, it has started my car several times too.

solentlife · Mar 8, 2017

dan84uk said:
The one i recommended works perfectly, thoroughly tested it, it has started my car several times too.

Good to know ....

But still it seems a bit overkill to power a couple of booster amps ??

Nigel

dan84uk · Mar 8, 2017

solentlife said:
Good to know ....

But still it seems a bit overkill to power a couple of booster amps ??

Nigel

Nope its nice and neat, compact, latest forever, and i use its usb port to charge my tablet at the same time. People wont need to buy an additional charger either, i used to always forget to charge my bloody tablet

Vega · Mar 8, 2017

solentlife said:
If signal is lost (5.8Ghz) ... it will RTH or Hover or Land - depending on what setting you made. Or if you are running autonomous Litchi mission.

If signal is lost (2.4Ghz) - it will most likely hover as you will stand there looking at a screen that is stuck - wondering what to do. Hit S2 switch and trigger RTH is best idea then as control is still there (5.8Ghz).

If the Booster amp is also PASS-THROUGH capable if not powered - then you may be lucky and signal still holds allowing you to continue. But at great distance booster enables - even that will most likely not have enough power to maintain control. RTH is the answer.

Nigel

Thanks for the explanation Nigel. Also, I have the amps from ebay that you got. Now I bought Sunhans. Are the Sunhans pass through capable? How about the ebay ones?

805hd · Mar 8, 2017

Vega said:
Thanks for the explanation Nigel. Also, I have the amps from ebay that you got. Now I bought Sunhans. Are the Sunhans pass through capable? How about the ebay ones?

I read on here the sunhans are not passive. You might get a few hundred feet.

solentlife · Mar 9, 2017

Which are 'pass through' I have no idea because they hardly ever say.
To check is to de-power on the ground and see what the top line of app shows. I would then do a very close low level lift off to see if it shows still connected.

Nigel

solentlife · Mar 9, 2017

dan84uk said:
Nope its nice and neat, compact, latest forever, and i use its usb port to charge my tablet at the same time. People wont need to buy an additional charger either, i used to always forget to charge my bloody tablet

Fair enough.... no prob.

Personally for tablet or RC - i have my pocket power pack .... similar size to mobile phone.

Nigel

dan84uk · Mar 9, 2017

solentlife said:
Fair enough.... no prob.

Personally for tablet or RC - i have my pocket power pack .... similar size to mobile phone.

Nigel

I think some sunhans need 12v too. Well the one i have does. I dont know how efficient it is at other voltages, doesn't say on its info page.

solentlife · Mar 9, 2017

My two boosters are happy at 5V .... so different reqt's.

Just a note for the interested ...

Pal of mine was testing a boosted 5.8Ghz FPV setup .... and he had a 'tap' on the shoulder from local Authority asking him about his power levels. Turned out he was interfering with a local terminals Comms link. They had identified his signal and politely told him to stop.

So beware of where you use your high power setups .... and for how long you stay in one place !!

Nigel