Around 60 ~ 100m it looses the signal...

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{EDIT: My Drone is a Standard, just realized that there is a SE and a Standard version. Sorry}

i've bought an used Phantom 3 SE and it's RC antenna aren't the original ones. Drone works normally and then around 60 ~ 100m the signal is gone and drone start the return to home functionally. As soon as i looked over the internet i found that those antennas are a from a "Give me Five" company. Also, i found that normally are 2 panels and one Anthena, instead of mine (2 ant / 1 panel).
I know the issue about the dead chip on antenna trigger and mine is dead... I did the soldering between the one connector to other on the chip to try as a solution but it didn't.
The question i have is... Are these antennas correct? I found that there is some modifications inside, silicone in some parts... is this some kind of modification?
Also, i found this kit, would it help?
Thank you in advance.

7e10ea0d-fbc8-42db-be1d-bcfc3e7f6fc6.jpg


89fce4d1-3e86-4ed9-8c45-1a7a853266ae.jpg
 
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Definitely a modification.

It seems you have either a power issue at the RF amp level or some other antenna mismatch or connection problem.

The though behind such mods are to increase range by adding higher gain antennas. This works by adding directivity to the emitted signal much like you can focus the light from a flashlight. Maglites are a good example of this.
 
Just thinking : Have you contacted the person that you bought it from and seen IF they could answer a few good questions about how it flew for them and what kind of range did they get.......If any more then you are !

And did they do the mods and why the excessive silicone glue goobs are like that ?

IF you paid good money for it.......yes you need some good answers !
 
i've bougt an used Phantom 3 SE and it's RC anthena aren't te original ones. Drone works normally and then around 60 ~ 100m the signal is gone an drone start the return to home functionally. As soon as i looked over te internet i found that those anthenas are a from a "Give me Five" company. Also, i found that normally are 2 panels and one Anthena, instead of mine (2 ant / 1 panel).
I know the issue about the dead chip on anthena trigger and mine is dead... I did the soldering between the one conector to other on the chip to try as a solution but it didn't.
The question i have is... Are these anthenas correct? I found that there is some modifications inside, silicone in some parts... is this some kind of modification?
Also, i found this kit, would it help?
Thank you in advance.

View attachment 108349

View attachment 108350
Yes search eBay for same kit you looking at its much cheaper,like 300 cheaper,,I use one of those kits at moment,cheap argtec I think,,yes no need for that silicone unless holding down anttennas clips in board,,the rest of it look like it hiding something,,do those anttennas have a hand and number 5 on them,,,I did do this to mine before changed set up and this helped 100% ,,cut front plastic cover off,,it was restricting my signal due to thick plastic,,,you could try changing the panel with one of the antenna sticks to see if change,,5.8 which is bottom plug on board might be wrong way round but hard to see where wires match up too,2.4 normally the 2 outside anttennas with 5,8 in the middle ,,check they right
1549823263868302547475.jpg
 
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Just thinking : Have you contacted the person that you bought it from and seen IF they could answer a few good questions about how it flhave ew for them and what kind of range did they get.......If any more then you are !

And did they do the mods and why the excessive silicone glue goobs are like that ?

IF you paid good money for it.......yes you need some good answers !

Yep... it wasn't thaaat expensive... This is my first drone, so i never tried to fly too far, now that I'm more experient i realized that i can't fly more than 100m... I bought it a few months ago... don't have the seller contact anymore :/. I bought it via Facebook's marketplace...
 
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Yes search eBay for same kit you looking at its much cheaper,like 300 cheaper,,I use one of those kits at moment,cheap argtec I think,,yes no need for that silicone unless holding down anttennas clips in board,,the rest of it look like it hiding something,,do those anttennas have a hand and number 5 on them,,,I did do this to mine before changed set up and this helped 100% ,,cut front plastic cover off,,it was restricting my signal due to thick plasticView attachment 108355
Exactly like mine... The hands with a "5" over it... I'll try your tip.
 
Virtually all the antennas are housed in some type of plastic, others in a rubber sheath.
There's not many other choices. OK maybe fiberglass but too lazy to think of more.

The manufacturer must be using some type of carbon or other metallic filler to create such noticeable losses. Not surprising given the cost of such devices.
 
View attachment 108355[/QUOTE]
Wow.....thats the first time i ever got to see inside them antennas and its base loaded center loaded and TOP loaded too ! and ianzon what did you use to cut the plastic near the base straight across , you did a nice job what ever it was.
 
Wow.....thats the first time i ever got to see inside them antennas and its base loaded center loaded and TOP loaded too ! and ianzon what did you use to cut the plastic near the base straight across , you did a nice job what ever it was.[/QUOTE]
I could have cut better,,they have a seem that needs to be litely squashed with plyer to start it off then should start to come 2 halves, then cut nice with blade incase you want to reglue back,I glued my 5.8 one back together and you never know,,,yes some anttennas have next to nothing inside,,you can hold them up to light and see where they Finnish, some very small , no wonder some are bad,,p4 ones not even 2 inches long,
 
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Guys,

I don't believe it is loading but rather stacking.

Notice the radiating elements are all the same but stacked.

Loading is to increase the resonant or electrical length without greatly increasing it's physical length.
This usually done with coiling the radiator or inductors (compact coils).

Stacking is more akin to: if 1 is good 2, 3, 4, etc. are better!
 
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If i past 60m at can at any moment loose the signal... Sometimes i can reach 100, but never more than that. It starts the RTH
Mayby try re linking, might help establish better pairing ,even though it linked do it again,
 
Pairing a.k.a. binding is a digital function.

There is no 'better' pairing.
 
Pairing a.k.a. binding is a digital function.

There is no 'better' pairing.
Agree ok I reword it,,re-linking again just help establish good conection between rc and AC like a refreasher,,I thought binding for helicopters and rc cars,:)
Also no disrespect to you for saying this
 
The range is rubbish on these.I just bought one also.After a short distance it will loose signal and return home. I suggest changing over to FCC mode even though it's a tiresome pain in the rear end to do mainly because if you buy the drone used you need to uninstal apps and when you will go to re-instal DJI-GO you will need all the account details to log back in to it which only the first day owner will have such as first account details to activate model etc email address etc etc......I suggest just fly and put up with it like me.
 
The range is rubbish on these.I just bought one also.After a short distance it will loose signal and return home. I suggest changing over to FCC mode even though it's a tiresome pain in the rear end to do mainly because if you buy the drone used you need to uninstal apps and when you will go to re-instal DJI-GO you will need all the account details to log back in to it which only the first day owner will have such as first account details to activate model etc email address etc etc......I suggest just fly and put up with it like me.
Why would you need original owner account details to fly? My birds get flown by 3 different accounts and none have had any problems. My birds are in FCC.
 

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