havasuphoto said:
Looks like there is no simple calibration on the 8FG, but it can be done via the service menu.
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=222549
Setting up the Futaba T8FGS (or 14SG) with the P2
- Thread starter ianwood
- Start date
Looks like there is no simple calibration on the 8FG, but it can be done via the service menu.
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=222549
It has to be something simple that I'm missing.sar104 said:
Thanks for the post-but I'll wait for someone that has one to tell me. Perhaps I just overlooked something.
No no no! The service menu was used a few years back when we didn't have all the options we have now. So don't bother with that.
Here's the simple way:
To correct the sticks positions: Go to "system menu" (double click "SYS") --> "H/W Set" --> "Calibration". Then follow the on-screen instructions and you'll be good to go.
To remove the "throttle-not-in-the-bottom-position" warning at startup: Go to "linkage menu" (double click "LNK"), --> go to the second page and click "warning", then scrol down to "THR POS." and change it to "OFF". That's it.
Hope that helps
Here's the simple way:
To correct the sticks positions: Go to "system menu" (double click "SYS") --> "H/W Set" --> "Calibration". Then follow the on-screen instructions and you'll be good to go.
To remove the "throttle-not-in-the-bottom-position" warning at startup: Go to "linkage menu" (double click "LNK"), --> go to the second page and click "warning", then scrol down to "THR POS." and change it to "OFF". That's it.
Hope that helps
Don't have either of those listed, and in info it says version 1.1Kicerk52 said:No no no! The service menu was used a few years back when we didn't have all the options we have now. So don't bother with that.
Here's the simple way:
To correct the sticks positions: Go to "system menu" (double click "SYS") --> "H/W Set" --> "Calibration". Then follow the on-screen instructions and you'll be good to go.
To remove the "throttle-not-in-the-bottom-position" warning at startup: Go to "linkage menu" (double click "LNK"), --> go to the second page and click "warning", then scrol down to "THR POS." and change it to "OFF". That's it.
Hope that helps
havasuphoto said:Don't have either of those listed, and in info it says version 1.1Kicerk52 said:No no no! The service menu was used a few years back when we didn't have all the options we have now. So don't bother with that.
Here's the simple way:
To correct the sticks positions: Go to "system menu" (double click "SYS") --> "H/W Set" --> "Calibration". Then follow the on-screen instructions and you'll be good to go.
To remove the "throttle-not-in-the-bottom-position" warning at startup: Go to "linkage menu" (double click "LNK"), --> go to the second page and click "warning", then scrol down to "THR POS." and change it to "OFF". That's it.
Hope that helps
When did you get it?
havasuphoto said:Don't have either of those listed, and in info it says version 1.1Kicerk52 said:No no no! The service menu was used a few years back when we didn't have all the options we have now. So don't bother with that.
Here's the simple way:
To correct the sticks positions: Go to "system menu" (double click "SYS") --> "H/W Set" --> "Calibration". Then follow the on-screen instructions and you'll be good to go.
To remove the "throttle-not-in-the-bottom-position" warning at startup: Go to "linkage menu" (double click "LNK"), --> go to the second page and click "warning", then scrol down to "THR POS." and change it to "OFF". That's it.
Hope that helps
If you have version 1.1 then you must first update your software to the latest version, i.e.V5.0. To do that download the update from here: http://www.futaba-rc.com/software-updates.html and follow the instructions.
OK-updated to version 5.0, and still can't get the warning off.
But-when I calibrate, then return-I'm still not getting 100% on the left roll.....or pitch up. It's only on the right stick.
Looking at end points-they're all set at 135 100
What am I missing here?
But-when I calibrate, then return-I'm still not getting 100% on the left roll.....or pitch up. It's only on the right stick.
Looking at end points-they're all set at 135 100
What am I missing here?
It says "confirm transmit" select yes or no....Throttle position is all the way down and the warning for that is set to off.Kicerk52 said:
Remember, this is a version that does not have the self-centering throttle.
Also-when I'm calibrating the sticks, J1 and J2(left stick) both go to their limits. But, the right stick, J3 and J4 don't. No matter what you do, they come up short-and don't go to the edges of the box.
Did you do the calibration for BOTH sticks? The calibration procedure is seperate for both sticks... have you calibrated the j3/j4 too?
When you say they don't go their limits, where are you seeing that? In the servo menu on the T8FGS or in the Phantom Assistant?
In the servo menu.....my P2 won't be here until Thursday.ianwood said:
Same in the calibration window-you can see the right stick is not reaching it's limits. All switches are up. got me stumped.
havasuphoto said:
I'm going to guess the sticks aren't perfectly aligned physically. I think there is a soft calibration in the 8FGS but I don't have mine with me right now so can't say for sure. I do know that when I first added the centering spring, it was off by a fair bit. I reopened it, loosened some screws, nudged some of the moving parts, tightened them back up and rechecked until all was good. You could probably do the same. The sticks kind of press fit in place and if not centered, you can get a similar result.
Hmmm...might have to do that. Hate to have to pop it open. It did come with a little plastic screw driver-what's that for?ianwood said:
HI,
I have been playing with ianwoods programming and love the flight control, but not quite happy with the gimbal control. I have taken the ratchet off the RS so it seems difficult to keep it centered and without it being centered, the toggle from 0-45-90 does not work. Has anyone had any success finding a solution to this? Would love if RS had some resistance and actually had a small "bump" in the center so it would stay there. I have actually considered remaking RS and just having the toggle, but I lose the granular control.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
I have been playing with ianwoods programming and love the flight control, but not quite happy with the gimbal control. I have taken the ratchet off the RS so it seems difficult to keep it centered and without it being centered, the toggle from 0-45-90 does not work. Has anyone had any success finding a solution to this? Would love if RS had some resistance and actually had a small "bump" in the center so it would stay there. I have actually considered remaking RS and just having the toggle, but I lose the granular control.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Instead of removing the metal part from the slider - take it out, grab a pair of pliers and flat out the bump that contacts the ratchet. You won't get it perfectly flat anyway so you'll still be able to feel where the middle is, as there is a bigger bump in the middle (so all the other ones won't "catch", just the middle).
Kicerk52 said:
'zackly what I did and it works nicely. Smooth arc with mild bump in the middle.
Thom, regarding your question about range of right side slider, it is possible to get granular functionality through the three ranges controlled by the SB switch. I have not made any modifications to the programming in Ian's v4 profile, other than to play with ServoSpeed to smooth out the gimbal action. Sorry I don't have my radio with me to walk you through it in detail, but what you are looking for is absolutely possible. Perhaps Ian or other Futaba black belts can advise on particulars.
In addition to playing with ServoSpeed on the radio, play with the gain on the gimbal page in the Phantom Assistant. Between the two you can get a smooth, dampened tilt operation, using the RS slider for virtually everything.
Kelly
I am about to embark on installation of the Fatshark 600TVL pan and tilt camera on my P2, which currently has the stock radio in it. In order to get pan and tilt functionality, I think I need to switch over to the Futaba receiver that came with my 14SG. Which means I also need to get the longer Futaba antennae if I want any decent range.
Questions:
1) has anyone plugged a Fatshark 600TVL with full functionality into a Futaba-base P2? If so, I would love to learn as much as I can about the particulars from your experience.
2) Independent of (1), I am thinking I want to switch away from soldering to a connecter-based world, so that I can mix and match components such as the 600TVL, iOSD's, 250mW and 600mW IRC vTx's, Ground Station, video switchers, etc., etc. Are there any good connector systems (and associated tools) you would recommend for this FPV component plug and play world? I don't mind soldering, I just don't want to have to do it every time I want to experiment with a component change.
Gracias,
Kelly
Questions:
1) has anyone plugged a Fatshark 600TVL with full functionality into a Futaba-base P2? If so, I would love to learn as much as I can about the particulars from your experience.
2) Independent of (1), I am thinking I want to switch away from soldering to a connecter-based world, so that I can mix and match components such as the 600TVL, iOSD's, 250mW and 600mW IRC vTx's, Ground Station, video switchers, etc., etc. Are there any good connector systems (and associated tools) you would recommend for this FPV component plug and play world? I don't mind soldering, I just don't want to have to do it every time I want to experiment with a component change.
Gracias,
Kelly
re: solderless connections
You will have to solder some things but won't have to solder/break up the main cables if you use the connection board by DJI. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I82U7YQ/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It works without soldering at all with DJI vtx but you may have to split one of the provided cables to hook up the FatShark. Not a biggy since you can get additional cables when/if you change vtx.
You will have to solder some things but won't have to solder/break up the main cables if you use the connection board by DJI. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I82U7YQ/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It works without soldering at all with DJI vtx but you may have to split one of the provided cables to hook up the FatShark. Not a biggy since you can get additional cables when/if you change vtx.
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