Need to find a battery solution for P2 V+ so I can keep testing.

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It's pretty much like the title says, I started a fix it thread earlier but it looks like it's dead, I’m stuck because the batteries to test with I have are bad, One is 6000 MAH and swelled up and I was able to freeze and get some more life out of it but now it just doesn't hold much of a charge the other is 5200 MAH and was DOA, but it could be it just needed to be revived since it probably wasn't charged for some time. I tried to revive it by watching this video
but it looks like some small wires broke off (you can see in the battery picture circled in red) and I can't figure out what the function is, it’s not working right, I can’t find an affordable used one, so I’m gonna try to do a battery mod I found on youtube here
and try a 1800 or 2000 mah that I have and see if I can proceed with the testing, the problem is I don't understand enough how to do the mod and what I need to do it, so far I know I need a JST connector but it looks like I need to have some other connector as well.
p2battery.jpg
 
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All the 2nd vid shows is a replacement lipo being installed using a 4-pin (3S) balance lead and an XT60 connector. The electrical theory behind it is relatively simple but if you don't know what you are doing and don't follow good practices then it could be extremely dangerous.

Although the creator of the video seems to congratulate himself at one stage on nothing bursting into flames, it was more by good luck than good practice.

As you readily admit to having insufficient knowledge about how to do the 'mod', I'd urge you not to proceed.
 
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All the 2nd vid shows is a replacement lipo being installed using a 4-pin (3S) balance lead and an XT60 connector. The electrical theory behind it is relatively simple but if you don't know what you are doing and don't follow good practices then it could be extremely dangerous.

Although the creator of the video seems to congratulate himself at one stage on nothing bursting into flames, it was more by good luck than good practice.

As you readily admit to having insufficient knowledge about how to do the 'mod', I'd urge you not to proceed.
 
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All the 2nd vid shows is a replacement lipo being installed using a 4-pin (3S) balance lead and an XT60 connector. The electrical theory behind it is relatively simple but if you don't know what you are doing and don't follow good practices then it could be extremely dangerous.

Although the creator of the video seems to congratulate himself at one stage on nothing bursting into flames, it was more by good luck than good practice.

As you readily admit to having insufficient knowledge about how to do the 'mod', I'd urge you not to proceed.
I can appreciate what you are saying and it's certainly not worth the risk of injury or death, that said is there a chance I might be able find someone who I can pay to do the mod? Otherwise it's looking like sometime before I can obtain a affordable P 2 Battery, the best I have found so far is around $50-60 and that's on a slow boat from China, they are not easy to find for a decent prices these days. Thanks
 
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The loose wires are just the overheating temperature sensor wires and can be left alone, but intact.
So if the mod were done than that sensor would not work anyway since it's part of the intelligent battery feature?
 
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The sensor wires are only connected on 1 end to the pcb board , the other end is loose and not connected to anything, only glued down . Yes, it is part of the int. battery cap, and needs to be left intact. On your mod video the temp wires are in between the 2 pcb boards which he never disassembles. Here's another vid. Must have cc turned on.
 
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The sensor wires are only connected on 1 end to the pcb board , the other end is loose and not connected to anything, only glued down . Yes, it is part of the int. battery cap, and needs to be left intact. On your mod video the temp wires are in between the 2 pcb boards which he never disassembles. Here's another vid. Must have cc turned on.
I found this video much more detailed and helpful, so the sensor plays a role either way. As for how do this safely and the risk it poses, once the old battery pack is disconnected the risk of puncturing it and it turning into a "incendiary grenade" as he put it, is less, so unless I screw up ground and the hot wire I don't see any other risks, but I'm still having my misgivings and doubts and will just have to keep an out for an affordable solution. I appreciate your trying to help.
 

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