I installed my Walkera on a FC40 then moved it to a F450 with a 4s lipo. It started acting up until I installed a 12 bec, now it's back to normal .
Input needed on Walkera G-2d Plastic White
- Thread starter Lonewolf
- Start date
I have plastic G-2D on P1, and have been tweaking for months to get the jello or horizontal vibration away. It has gone just the way it's described before: tighten the dampers, you get jello. I've tried different dampers, hot-glue stiffened dampers, with tighteners and/or additional filling material for reducing the movement. Once in the autumn I got perfect video, but not in fast descent or ascent, and it was calm.
The best help for harsh horizontal vibration (after the autumn) was lowering the Naza gains for pitch and roll! I went down to 60 with 9" props. Then the setback: I noticed my prop hub drilling was poor, and the prop(s) gave vibration even though they were balanced, so I switched back to 8". Now the whole drone feels clumsy, unreliable and shaky... Well, could be just wrong gains for smaller props (I increased to 85 I think but maybe it is fine tuning).
Have to mention that in the autumn I hadn't touched the gains. I used two bolts, one on each side, between the dampers, for tightening. But then a nut came loose and I lost the valuable bolt. I did not continue the experiments, nor did I document them thoroughly, there was too much things going on, and seems that after months things go down hill. Not flying straight in GPS mode, GPS lock problems... Before I was happy to learn things, but now I'm not sure if I'm learning anything.
Anyway, today I tried fixed mount (the GoPro slide-in clip system, plate tightly bolted to the belly), and I can't see jello or vibration. Just the sickening rocking view, as the camera follows the drone attitude. So... The plastic gimbal arms. I had seen them vibrate last year. I have an extra mounting boom (sorry forgot a correct name for that) for the gimbal, so I screwed it underneath a shelve. When the gimbal base is firmly fixed I can knock the camera and see it oscillating. Nice... Not!
I must stick to the finding that the plastic arm causes trouble. However, some people take excellent video with the same gimbal. Thus, the (possibly) last hope is finding better gain and motor power settings, which is why I came here now, to find some experiences on the parameters. There is not so much help available. The manual says like "more power - less gain" but does not really help. I had my own idea for the motor power: I reduced it as much as possible, to always have enough power for turning the camera. I thought that if there is too much power, it could lead to oscillation with the plastic arms. But now I'll experiment. I need a lab setup with some feedback. I hate the Walkera parameter adjustment procedure alone, and knowing I may have to spend time with it... Duhh. But if this helps anyone, it's worth it. Of course I want clean video myself as well, ha ha
The best help for harsh horizontal vibration (after the autumn) was lowering the Naza gains for pitch and roll! I went down to 60 with 9" props. Then the setback: I noticed my prop hub drilling was poor, and the prop(s) gave vibration even though they were balanced, so I switched back to 8". Now the whole drone feels clumsy, unreliable and shaky... Well, could be just wrong gains for smaller props (I increased to 85 I think but maybe it is fine tuning).
Have to mention that in the autumn I hadn't touched the gains. I used two bolts, one on each side, between the dampers, for tightening. But then a nut came loose and I lost the valuable bolt. I did not continue the experiments, nor did I document them thoroughly, there was too much things going on, and seems that after months things go down hill. Not flying straight in GPS mode, GPS lock problems... Before I was happy to learn things, but now I'm not sure if I'm learning anything.
Anyway, today I tried fixed mount (the GoPro slide-in clip system, plate tightly bolted to the belly), and I can't see jello or vibration. Just the sickening rocking view, as the camera follows the drone attitude. So... The plastic gimbal arms. I had seen them vibrate last year. I have an extra mounting boom (sorry forgot a correct name for that) for the gimbal, so I screwed it underneath a shelve. When the gimbal base is firmly fixed I can knock the camera and see it oscillating. Nice... Not!
I must stick to the finding that the plastic arm causes trouble. However, some people take excellent video with the same gimbal. Thus, the (possibly) last hope is finding better gain and motor power settings, which is why I came here now, to find some experiences on the parameters. There is not so much help available. The manual says like "more power - less gain" but does not really help. I had my own idea for the motor power: I reduced it as much as possible, to always have enough power for turning the camera. I thought that if there is too much power, it could lead to oscillation with the plastic arms. But now I'll experiment. I need a lab setup with some feedback. I hate the Walkera parameter adjustment procedure alone, and knowing I may have to spend time with it... Duhh. But if this helps anyone, it's worth it. Of course I want clean video myself as well, ha ha
You may well have tried this but I thought I'd mention it, when I had one sometime ago I found that getting the weight of the camera right was critical. It seemed as if it had been designed for a very specific GoPro and unless you matched that weight jello was always an issue.
Thank you. Well for the mass I haven't done anything else than adding a counterwight to balance the SJ4000 well. I've just assumed you can freely use different cameras, because you can adjust the gain and power parameters. Before adding the counterweight the roll motor was hot when having the drone sitting on the table. After balancing I could lower the roll motor power, no more hot motor -> some flying time earned.
It could be that the parameters cannot fix the issue completely, because the plastic arms introduce one or two more variables. Having a heavier camera leads to slower oscillation -> the system goes out of the resonant frequency. Going this far with the theory, I'll just try adding more weight. Thanks!
Btw, SJ4000 with the DIY balancing counterweight is only 66 grams total, battery included. I have thought of getting rid of the battery, or even some of the housing. It would make a really lighweight camera with the PCBs and sensor + lens only
But then I'd have it inside the hull... a fixed POV. I just don't yet know why I'd do that.It was the SJ4000 I was using as well. Unfortunately I sold it all some time ago so I can't tell you what I ended up with, but I think your right that it's worth trying more weight to stabilise rather than less. It's a case of damping it and I don't think you can really take that out with the gain or power.
Let us know how you get on.
Let us know how you get on.
I added weight as suggested. A 10 gram washer fits nicely at the back of the Walkera camera frame and some more to the SJ4000 itself. Double sided adhesive foamy tape. Cheap but it will come off when needed. The change: SJ4000 went from 66 grams to 84. That feels so heavy now! Walkera parameters I kept the same as before, because the current camera imbalance is not that big (meaning the low power setting tuned for better balance seems to have enough margin for little extra drive).
The result: video got better. It is definitely getting there I am trying 3D conversion later when I get the kit, but it is really good to get the mechanics solved with 2D first. Less variables to tackle with additional sensor and board. I'm pretty sure there will be something more than "out of the box" straightforward experience.
The weight changes things for the dampers and the tighteners. It's not immediately clear which kind of vibration is reduced by which mechanism, and how to DIY modify the damping. And the quad is now even more nose heavy than before. I will (reluctantly) add counterweight... sigh. But it reacts to gusts of wind and all much better when it's balanced.
Right now I can focus on trying different Naza basic gains for pitch and roll, to get as smooth yet safe flying as possible.
Needless to say, but I am happy for this, so big thanks!
The result: video got better. It is definitely getting there
I am trying 3D conversion later when I get the kit, but it is really good to get the mechanics solved with 2D first. Less variables to tackle with additional sensor and board. I'm pretty sure there will be something more than "out of the box" straightforward experience.The weight changes things for the dampers and the tighteners. It's not immediately clear which kind of vibration is reduced by which mechanism, and how to DIY modify the damping. And the quad is now even more nose heavy than before. I will (reluctantly) add counterweight... sigh. But it reacts to gusts of wind and all much better when it's balanced.
Right now I can focus on trying different Naza basic gains for pitch and roll, to get as smooth yet safe flying as possible.
Needless to say, but I am happy for this, so big thanks!
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