GoPro Field of View FPV vs AV

[d4ddyo]

I was flying FPV 1080p wide... and i found it very hard to judge distance...

I left it there because i was framing AV

Should i just practice in wide? seems easier in narrow.

 

[2Balls]

d4,
A couple of quick questions for you.

1) What distance are you trying to judge (how far away from a subject in front of you, or to the side as you are flying by [lateral])?
2) What exactly do you mean by "framing AV"?

I would suggest practicing in the mode you will be using in the future.
Go to a "known" structure, house, tree, whatever and frame off it if FPV. Then "cheat" and look at it from your perspective or have someone else measure distances. That should give you a reference to work from.

The closer you are to a subject I would recommend using "normal" or "narrow" field of view to reduce the amount of distortion.

I use a monitor when flying FPV so that I can also look at the Phantom to ensure I won't run into anything.

There are a TON of techniques, and the following is what I use when filming something off in the distance.

Here is what I use to film subjects off in the distance:

As I fly towards the subject I look at the Phantom to ensure I can see sky below the Phantom. This guarantees me that with my current flight control inputs I will not run into ANYTHING! A quick crosscheck of the monitor shows me the subjects framing. If I am close enough and I need to fine tune anything, I'll stop any vertical and horizontal movement of the Phantom and then adjust as required (move closer or lower). Any movement is done while actually looking at the Phantom, and double checking the monitor to make sure that is the position I want.

I hope this helps, and if you have any more questions, just ask!

2-Balls

 

[d4ddyo]

d4,
A couple of quick questions for you.

1) What distance are you trying to judge (how far away from a subject in front of you, or to the side as you are flying by [lateral])?
2) What exactly do you mean by "framing AV"?

I would suggest practicing in the mode you will be using in the future.
Go to a "known" structure, house, tree, whatever and frame off it if FPV. Then "cheat" and look at it from your perspective or have someone else measure distances. That should give you a reference to work from.

The closer you are to a subject I would recommend using "normal" or "narrow" field of view to reduce the amount of distortion.

I use a monitor when flying FPV so that I can also look at the Phantom to ensure I won't run into anything.

There are a TON of techniques, and the following is what I use when filming something off in the distance.

Here is what I use to film subjects off in the distance:

As I fly towards the subject I look at the Phantom to ensure I can see sky below the Phantom. This guarantees me that with my current flight control inputs I will not run into ANYTHING! A quick crosscheck of the monitor shows me the subjects framing. If I am close enough and I need to fine tune anything, I'll stop any vertical and horizontal movement of the Phantom and then adjust as required (move closer or lower). Any movement is done while actually looking at the Phantom, and double checking the monitor to make sure that is the position I want.

I hope this helps, and if you have any more questions, just ask!

2-Balls

Yeah that helps. I wonder how people that use goggles do it. Lol

 

[Diesel31]

Good points 2Balls.

I have both a monitor and goggles. Between the two, goggles all the way. Whereas I think the monitor allows you to still maintain a 3rd person view, total immersion will give you more control. I suggest a lot of stick time to get used to being totally immersed, but once you do, you'll really pilot your craft. I even get a sort of motion sensation when flying with my goggles, which helps you "feel" your way around. Even as your signal breaks up, you'll still be in control (as long as you don't panic). Some guys have a higher threshold, meaning they'll fly blind for 10-20+ seconds without a visual transmission...then all of a sudden they're getting reception again. I'm not that ballsy yet, I think I'm good for like 3-4 seconds before I wig out :mrgreen:.

Although you give up your 3rd person advantage from using a monitor, you can more than make up for that by using your other visual cues, namely an IOSD, which we can all agree is a necessity. I switch between video formats, but the constant is that things are always closer than what they appear through the goggles, so keep that in mind when flying between objects. Obviously, I'm constantly looking at my power gauge so I know how much I have in the tank. Surprisingly though, speed isn't a priority since I use other visual cues to gauge motion and movement, and knowing a numerical value doesn't really help me. The 2 things that I do look at the most are the height and the attitude line. Attitude line because that shows me how the wind is affecting my craft and it allows me to compensate accordingly. For example, I have had some interesting stick combinations to get a particular pan shot while fighting the wind while navigating through a treeline. Maneuvers you just couldn't pull 3rd person.

 

[d4ddyo]

Good points 2Balls.

I have both a monitor and goggles. Between the two, goggles all the way. Whereas I think the monitor allows you to still maintain a 3rd person view, total immersion will give you more control. I suggest a lot of stick time to get used to being totally immersed, but once you do, you'll really pilot your craft. I even get a sort of motion sensation when flying with my goggles, which helps you "feel" your way around. Even as your signal breaks up, you'll still be in control (as long as you don't panic). Some guys have a higher threshold, meaning they'll fly blind for 10-20+ seconds without a visual transmission...then all of a sudden they're getting reception again. I'm not that ballsy yet, I think I'm good for like 3-4 seconds before I wig out :mrgreen:.

Although you give up your 3rd person advantage from using a monitor, you can more than make up for that by using your other visual cues, namely an IOSD, which we can all agree is a necessity. I switch between video formats, but the constant is that things are always closer than what they appear through the goggles, so keep that in mind when flying between objects. Obviously, I'm constantly looking at my power gauge so I know how much I have in the tank. Surprisingly though, speed isn't a priority since I use other visual cues to gauge motion and movement, and knowing a numerical value doesn't really help me. The 2 things that I do look at the most are the height and the attitude line. Attitude line because that shows me how the wind is affecting my craft and it allows me to compensate accordingly. For example, I have had some interesting stick combinations to get a particular pan shot while fighting the wind while navigating through a treeline. Maneuvers you just couldn't pull 3rd person.

You are using 5.8 Ghz for FPV? I flew yesterday through the arches of the George Washington Bridge with my gopro on 1080p wide. How scary it was! No googles but I felt like I was not gonna fit even though it was 4 lanes wide!! I got so scared that after I flew through u had to climb out of the suspension bridge. Lol

 

[Diesel31]

Yes, 5.8.

I know what you mean, it takes some getting used to. One afternoon, I committed myself to flying strictly FPV. I went to a large soccer field and knocked off 7 battery packs. By the 2nd pack, I was flying through the trees and through the goal posts. I made my way over to the playground and started flying between the swingset and jungle gym, etc. The key is to be slow and steady. I'm sure guys with a higher skill set can maneuver pretty quickly. I'll try to upload some clips this weekend.

Now, it doesn't come without a price. The following day, I clipped a branch, took a tumble, and destroyed my Phantom. 2 broken props, hairline fracture on one of the phillips screws, a cracked top shell, and sadly, my 1st generation H3-3D (w/o ribbon) FUBAR. I got her re-built and my spare H3-3D is no longer a spare.

I've been racing RC cars for the better part of 20 years and one thing I've learned, is that the hobby is not cheap. You need to have back ups as well as the working knowledge to work on your own stuff. In my quiver, I have a perfect 1.1.1 (which is for sale btw!), an unopened new version P2, another P2 with H3-2D, and an original P1 w/ T motors.

 

[d4ddyo]

Yes, 5.8.

I know what you mean, it takes some getting used to. One afternoon, I committed myself to flying strictly FPV. I went to a large soccer field and knocked off 7 battery packs. By the 2nd pack, I was flying through the trees and through the goal posts. I made my way over to the playground and started flying between the swingset and jungle gym, etc. The key is to be slow and steady. I'm sure guys with a higher skill set can maneuver pretty quickly. I'll try to upload some clips this weekend.

Now, it doesn't come without a price. The following day, I clipped a branch, took a tumble, and destroyed my Phantom. 2 broken props, hairline fracture on one of the phillips screws, a cracked top shell, and sadly, my 1st generation H3-3D (w/o ribbon) FUBAR. I got her re-built and my spare H3-3D is no longer a spare.

I've been racing RC cars for the better part of 20 years and one thing I've learned, is that the hobby is not cheap. You need to have back ups as well as the working knowledge to work on your own stuff. In my quiver, I have a perfect 1.1.1 (which is for sale btw!), an unopened new version P2, another P2 with H3-2D, and an original P1 w/ T motors.

Honestly I am a former RC Nitro Helicopter pilot... so i am well aware of the costs. I never flew FPV... I don't remember it being an option back in the day... LOL.

That being said... I am in the process of building my own tri-copter. I am grateful for DJI and the phantom for re-introducing flight to me but it doesn't have to be that expensive. I have a feeling i will be flying the phantom less and less.

 

[d4ddyo]

Ok I was out today and on the cliffs of the Henry Hudson River on the NJ side. I took the phantom out for a spin. I'm flying 1080p wide.

Honestly it's too wide for flying in my opinion... I lost sight of the phantom at 1K because distance is so hard in wide... it's even hard to judge the terrain and your location. I haven't tried narrow yet.

I'm thinking... is there a camera that is better for fpv that gives a field of view similar to a full frame 50mm Lens?

 

[sar104]

Ok I was out today and on the cliffs of the Henry Hudson River on the NJ side. I took the phantom out for a spin. I'm flying 1080p wide.

Honestly it's too wide for flying in my opinion... I lost sight of the phantom at 1K because distance is so hard in wide... it's even hard to judge the terrain and your location. I haven't tried narrow yet.

I'm thinking... is there a camera that is better for fpv that gives a field of view similar to a full frame 50mm Lens?

Not sure about other cameras, but you could change the lens for something with a longer focal length / smaller FOV.

 

[wkf94025]

I agree with SAR104. I changed to a 5.4mm lens (approx. 80 degree FOV) late last year, and have none of the FPV distance perception issues others describe, either with goggles or screen.

Kelly

 

[d4ddyo]

I agree with SAR104. I changed to a 5.4mm lens (approx. 80 degree FOV) late last year, and have none of the FPV distance perception issues others describe, either with goggles or screen.

Kelly

so expensive. but I want to be able to run wide. what Field of view is a 5.4mm in in narrow, medium and wide. I don't want to be stuck in a 50mm view ... the stock lens at narrow is i think 23 or 22 mm which is pretty close up. half the size of what the human eye perceived view. and I can take a wider view if I choose.

OH well.. the gopro 4 is rumored to change the lens and have image stabilization. I hope they add selectable 4:3 TV out on the new gopro.

 

[wkf94025]

OH well.. the gopro 4 is rumored to change the lens and have image stabilization. I hope they add selectable 4:3 TV out on the new gopro.

I am with you on the "how much do we optimize our platform for the H3+ and all its strengths and weaknesses?" when the H4 will be out some time later this year. for example, looking forward to not having to wear an ND filter on every flight...

Kelly

 

[d4ddyo]

OH well.. the gopro 4 is rumored to change the lens and have image stabilization. I hope they add selectable 4:3 TV out on the new gopro.

I am with you on the "how much do we optimize our platform for the H3+ and all its strengths and weaknesses?" when the H4 will be out some time later this year. for example, looking forward to not having to wear an ND filter on every flight...

Kelly

well.. as I see it... i can optimize my h2 as much as i can... sell my H3+ Black for 300 bucks including accessories and case. A GoPro 4 with image stabilization is going to help tremendously.

 

[sar104]

I agree with SAR104. I changed to a 5.4mm lens (approx. 80 degree FOV) late last year, and have none of the FPV distance perception issues others describe, either with goggles or screen.

Kelly

so expensive. but I want to be able to run wide. what Field of view is a 5.4mm in in narrow, medium and wide. I don't want to be stuck in a 50mm view ... the stock lens at narrow is i think 23 or 22 mm which is pretty close up. half the size of what the human eye perceived view. and I can take a wider view if I choose.

OH well.. the gopro 4 is rumored to change the lens and have image stabilization. I hope they add selectable 4:3 TV out on the new gopro.

5.4 mm is 80˚ FOV in wide.