Better Yaw control mod (how to video)

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I fixed the spelling and changed the music..
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zndb9vUo-Xo[/youtube]

Results video test:
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArtUdKWsuCE[/youtube]
 
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Interesting. Can you post a video demonstrating the results of this modification?

Thanks.
 
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Nice job! Only spelling error I saw was the word "connector" which you spelled as "connectior" numerous times.
 
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Saying nothing of the instructional content, ditching the dubstep and putting in some sweet Trance would be fantastic. ;)
 
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It seems like you're using a variable resistor inline on the yaw control and adding a bypass switch to allow the variable resistor to be eliminated from the circuit for startup.

I'd like to be able to dial a rate on a wheel/knob and get a constant output as long as I don't touch it.

The joysticks create two problems for me. Too much variability.....translated, I can't keep the stick in the same spot, and two crosstalk......translate, I can't just move the joystick in one axis without getting some unintended movement in the alternate axis.

My primary application for my P2V+ is video.....smooth flowing buttery jerk-free movement.

The unintended motion seems more obvious in yaw axis, but I have similar issues with side to side movement. I would actually like to have dial control on all four axis. Set it and forget it!

The joysticks seem best suited for stunt flying which I try to never do.....just not always successful!
 
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I've been contemplating a way to slow down the YAW axis as well for smoother panning. Couldn't you just reduce the YAW gain with the assistant? This is a neat mod though and I'd love to see video of the results as someone already suggested.
 
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Good video but there is one small thing: you say the Phantom will not start unless the switch is in off position.
This indicates you have a problem and the sticks are not calibrated, that is why it will not start unless you bypass your mod.

If the problems can't be calibrated using the RC assistant first and then PT2 assistant it is a clear indication that you have different resistance over the potentiometers. This can be fixed using an ohm meter measuring out how much and install a suitable resistor to compensate so they are the same.

Did this myself some time ago and that is how I solved the problem. Please note all are not the same, did two different controllers and one was fine, the other I had to install a resistor to get values correct.
 
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I just did the yaw control modification as posted by Reme over on RC Groups. Literally wrapped it up a few minutes ago. I tested it in the assistant software, and It clearly reduces the yaw output to specification (using the knob) I am very excited to test it tomorrow. I will post video from my first modified yaw flight.

To view wiring diagram as posted by reme, and to view his gimbal tilt modification: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost ... count=2990
 

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It should be noted that this video is following RemE's wiring and parts list. I just put his instructions to a step by step slide show thing.
 
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cougar said:
This indicates you have a problem and the sticks are not calibrated, that is why it will not start unless you bypass your mod.
:eek:

I forgot to do that part :oops: :oops: :oops:
 
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SpikeFinch said:
cougar said:
This indicates you have a problem and the sticks are not calibrated, that is why it will not start unless you bypass your mod.
:eek:

I forgot to do that part :oops: :oops: :oops:
It probably still will not shut down or start the motors, even once calibrated. This shouldn't be an issue, though. There is next to no reason to slow down or speed up yaw during takeoff or landing. The only practical use for this mod is a for a nice smooth pan shot. The important thing to look out for is that when the switch is activated, the yaw feedback reads at just about neutral in the assistant software. If you try to compensate for the modification in the software, you're probably going to end up throwing off your normal flight, when the switch is off and the mod is being bypassed.
 
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sidebox said:
SpikeFinch said:
cougar said:
This indicates you have a problem and the sticks are not calibrated, that is why it will not start unless you bypass your mod.
:eek:

I forgot to do that part :oops: :oops: :oops:
It probably still will not shut down or start the motors, even once calibrated. This shouldn't be an issue, though. There is next to no reason to slow down or speed up yaw during takeoff or landing. The only practical use for this mod is a for a nice smooth pan shot. The important thing to look out for is that when the switch is activated, the yaw feedback reads at just about neutral in the assistant software. If you try to compensate for the modification in the software, you're probably going to end up throwing off your normal flight, when the switch is off and the mod is being bypassed.
That seems to be correct. Unless you have the dial all the way up. For shut down, I just pull down on the stick, so no issue there.
 
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RedRyderMedia said:
I'd like to be able to dial a rate on a wheel/knob and get a constant output as long as I don't touch it.
and a one-to-one pan wheel that you could just swipe
 
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SpikeFinch said:
It should be noted that this video is following RemE's wiring and parts list. I just put his instructions to a step by step slide show thing.
Spike pm responded to.
BTW. calibration of the controller should be done with the potentiometer turned all the way down, NOT up.
 
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cougar said:
SpikeFinch said:
It should be noted that this video is following RemE's wiring and parts list. I just put his instructions to a step by step slide show thing.
Spike pm responded to.
BTW. calibration of the controller should be done with the potentiometer turned all the way down, NOT up.
By down, you mean clockwise, right?
 
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SpikeFinch said:
cougar said:
SpikeFinch said:
It should be noted that this video is following RemE's wiring and parts list. I just put his instructions to a step by step slide show thing.
Spike pm responded to.
BTW. calibration of the controller should be done with the potentiometer turned all the way down, NOT up.
By down, you mean clockwise, right?
Down means highest rate of yaw, in other words pot has least effect.
 

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