4000 mAh from UK
- Thread starter deltamike
- Start date
Six and two threes really. Easier to disconnect if you need to in a hurry but aside from that not much difference. Normally when I fly I have to put the battery in and when I finish I take it out to recharge. Makes no difference which way round it goes - the work is the same.
Besides, with the wires tucked away it makes it easy to mount something like a light on the door if I want to.
Besides, with the wires tucked away it makes it easy to mount something like a light on the door if I want to.
Yo Mikey - Welcome back. Hard weeks work?
I am going to do the mod tomorrow and have it done before Kiwi wakes up. :lol:
Stay tuned
Regards
Pete
I am going to do the mod tomorrow and have it done before Kiwi wakes up. :lol:
Stay tuned
Regards
Pete
Pete,
Still waiting for my batteries to arrive. Getting a little antzy. How is the modification to fit the a 4000mAh battery going?
Edit: just realized you said 'tomorrow' - I'll check in tomorrow.
Still waiting for my batteries to arrive. Getting a little antzy. How is the modification to fit the a 4000mAh battery going?
Edit: just realized you said 'tomorrow' - I'll check in tomorrow.
mikey said:
Yep. Once the door is closed you would never know it not a 2200mAh apart from the fact it doesn't fall out the sky at 8 minutes or so!
As I said - fit the battery leads end first (there is no way to get the leads in with the battery in place). Takes a little fiddling but it does go quite nicely.
4000 mAh Battery – Phantom FC40
The required modifications to the a/c were carried out by two qualified electrical and mechanical engineers.
We thought that the FC40 battery arrangement is a bad design for any battery. Considering the Phantom 2 battery modification by DJI we know that they have acknowledged this and rectified the problem.
To accommodate the 4000 mAh battery the door hatch nearest the hinge required the bottom lip to be level with the battery supports inside the a/c. This was done using a Dremmel cutting disc and then to finish off, a fine file. The battery fit is tight and care should be used in insertion. (No comment here)
Next, we examined the possibility of cable failure within the aircraft with placing the cables and battery inside. Various components were placed under strain and considering the MBR of the cable, (See http://uk.ask.com/wiki/Bend_radius?lang=en
For more explanation)
It will happen that the cables fail due to high resistance and / or fatigue after numerous battery insertions – the most vulnerable point being the rear of the XT60 socket and plug. Together with this there could be additional strain exerted on the cables themselves and the soldered joints on the PCB.
We consider it an important safety requirement to place the cables and connecters to the outside of the a/c.
See:- viewtopic.php?f=20&t=15368
An opening on the hand side of the hatch door is provided to allow the battery leads exit point.
We disassembled the body shell and cut a notch on the body near the base of the arm. It is advisable not to make the cables exit point a tight fit but to allow room for the cables to have some movement in and out with two winds of electricians tape where the cables exit the body to reduce cable fatigue. The cables are secured to the body inside with hot glue to reduce the strain on the soldered joints on the main board.
Fitting the battery connector to the outside of the a/c is more convenient and safer than the ‘designed’ way and we recommend that this modification is effected by all FC40 owners.
The following U-Tube clip describes the method above :-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okVp4LW1BA0
However, some of you will prefer the following method which is more simple and quick :-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGNIuN9oK80
The required modifications to the a/c were carried out by two qualified electrical and mechanical engineers.
We thought that the FC40 battery arrangement is a bad design for any battery. Considering the Phantom 2 battery modification by DJI we know that they have acknowledged this and rectified the problem.
To accommodate the 4000 mAh battery the door hatch nearest the hinge required the bottom lip to be level with the battery supports inside the a/c. This was done using a Dremmel cutting disc and then to finish off, a fine file. The battery fit is tight and care should be used in insertion. (No comment here)
Next, we examined the possibility of cable failure within the aircraft with placing the cables and battery inside. Various components were placed under strain and considering the MBR of the cable, (See http://uk.ask.com/wiki/Bend_radius?lang=en
For more explanation)
It will happen that the cables fail due to high resistance and / or fatigue after numerous battery insertions – the most vulnerable point being the rear of the XT60 socket and plug. Together with this there could be additional strain exerted on the cables themselves and the soldered joints on the PCB.
We consider it an important safety requirement to place the cables and connecters to the outside of the a/c.
See:- viewtopic.php?f=20&t=15368
An opening on the hand side of the hatch door is provided to allow the battery leads exit point.
We disassembled the body shell and cut a notch on the body near the base of the arm. It is advisable not to make the cables exit point a tight fit but to allow room for the cables to have some movement in and out with two winds of electricians tape where the cables exit the body to reduce cable fatigue. The cables are secured to the body inside with hot glue to reduce the strain on the soldered joints on the main board.
Fitting the battery connector to the outside of the a/c is more convenient and safer than the ‘designed’ way and we recommend that this modification is effected by all FC40 owners.
The following U-Tube clip describes the method above :-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okVp4LW1BA0
However, some of you will prefer the following method which is more simple and quick :-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGNIuN9oK80
I disagree. I'm quite happy to run my cables internally.
I suspect DJI changed the battery arrangement on the P2 to aid convenience as opposed to any perceived failing in the old arrangement. It also allowed them to have a captive market for additional batteries.
I suspect DJI changed the battery arrangement on the P2 to aid convenience as opposed to any perceived failing in the old arrangement. It also allowed them to have a captive market for additional batteries.
So Kiwi - you disagree with professional experienced people eh?
Do you know something they do not in respect to possible wiring damage?
Maybe this might make you reconsider :-
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=15368&p=143562&hilit=design+flaw#p143562
Your choice.
Good luck.
Do you know something they do not in respect to possible wiring damage?
Maybe this might make you reconsider :-
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=15368&p=143562&hilit=design+flaw#p143562
Your choice.
Good luck.
lostkiwi said:
I'm with ya on this one. Although my opinion is not worth much as I do not have my batteries yet. I just don't want any wiring outside the aircraft, even if just for aesthetics. Guess we'll see how I feel once I've experienced cramming it in - lol
4000 mAh
24 Aug. 14.
First Flight – I shall be keeping the first and second warning levels as they are and using the same battery although after the third flight I might fiddle with the 2nd. level warning (Auto-Land)
Battery start voltage 12.57v.
1st. Naza Level warning set at 10.58v. (83% of battery left)
2nd. Naza Level warning set at 10.45v. (82% of battery left)
1st level warning at 14m 51s.
22 seconds to auto-land.
Duration at ‘auto-land’ 16m. 13s.
15 min rest voltage (To be entered).
24 Aug. 14.
First Flight – I shall be keeping the first and second warning levels as they are and using the same battery although after the third flight I might fiddle with the 2nd. level warning (Auto-Land)
Battery start voltage 12.57v.
1st. Naza Level warning set at 10.58v. (83% of battery left)
2nd. Naza Level warning set at 10.45v. (82% of battery left)
1st level warning at 14m 51s.
22 seconds to auto-land.
Duration at ‘auto-land’ 16m. 13s.
15 min rest voltage (To be entered).
deltamike said:
I received a notice in the mail saying I have a parcel waiting at the post office.. this is either my batteries... or as I've come to learn from previous experiences and high hopes - some more online beauty products my wife ordered lol. high hopes its the batteries this time. I won't be able to check until tomorrow though.
I'm really liking the flight times your posting Pete, I'm looking real forward to some extended flight times.
mikey said:
Cheers Mikey.
Don't forget I am flying in Atti with lots of manoeuvring which will give a more realistic time than hovering in GPS mode.
When you get your 4000, let me have some times please for GPS mode.
Send me the bill
:lol: Pete
deltamike said:
You make that comment with no knowledge of my own profession or qualifications.
Lets just say that given my professional background of the past 40 years I'm perfectly happy with my setup.
I'm very familiar with bend radii as its an integral part of what I do day to day and something in first trained in back in 1978 - quite possibly before you were even born.
The setup you have is unsafe as you have sharp edges where the cable exits the shell. This will lead over time to chafing of the wires and an associated risk of a short circuit. Any point a wire exits the shell should use a rubber grommet to prevent potential insulation damage. Furthermore there is a risk of relative movement between the upper and lower portions of the shell further aggravating the potential for insulation damage. Furthermore with the wiring exposed to the airflow from the rotors you introduce a small risk of fatigue from vibrations of the wires (unless the wires are firmly secured to the shell to prevent this, but that cannot be done with the wires from the battery as then you wouldn't be able to remove it. Finally in the event of a crash into trees there is a real risk of damage to any exposed wiring.
If you have concerns over bend radii the easiest and neatest remedy is to lengthen the wires from the circuit board to XT60 connector. Then to be certain of no damage to cabling apply a short length of heat shrink cable to the wire where it joins the main PCB and apply a blob of epoxy to securely anchor it.
Simple and elegant and doesn't introduce any additional risk elements.
As I said. I'm happy with my solution. I'm sure its perfectly safe.
I doubt it - I am 71. :lol:
Don't shoot the messenger here - I am only saying what the engineers said and knowing them both I believe them.
Did you look at
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=15368&p=143562&hilit=design+flaw#p143562
I will send your modifications suggestions to the engineers and see what they say.
Regards
Pete
Don't shoot the messenger here - I am only saying what the engineers said and knowing them both I believe them.
Did you look at
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=15368&p=143562&hilit=design+flaw#p143562
I will send your modifications suggestions to the engineers and see what they say.
Regards
Pete
