Here are a couple options for graduated filters.
DJI Phantom 3 Graduated Filter Set
P3 Series Filters
ND filters
- Thread starter lotusteve
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Here are a couple options for graduated filters.
DJI Phantom 3 Graduated Filter Set
P3 Series Filters
Use a rubber band for better friction and grip. Mine came off easily with it.
Be careful to not apply too much pressure when removing the filter. Too much can deform it and then you will have even a more difficult time or it may even become stuck.
Be careful to not apply too much pressure when removing the filter. Too much can deform it and then you will have even a more difficult time or it may even become stuck.
I got the 4 pack from TACO ND 4 / 8 / 16 / 32 all labeled and came with a case. On a bright day the video quality is much better with the 16 or 32, a little darker but the colors look much richer
I'm no expert but I would thought UV filter would be best, then again I'm told the P3 comes with one (I have not purchased my P3 yet). Maybe a polarising filter would help, saturate the colours. I see lots of them on eBay from China, don't know what quality is like though.
A polarizing filter is not a good idea for video. The maximum benefit in blue sky and cloud definition provided by the filter works when at 90 degrees to the sun. When you turn the aircraft the sky will become lighter or darker depending on your orientation. That will not look good in a video. So, unless you plan on flying in straight line perpendicular to the sun I would not recommend one.
What is more important is getting correct exposure rather than making a "darker video". You can create "richer colors" in editing if you are shooting in LOG or even Normal. By reducing the blacks (shadows) a little and increasing the saturation in post you can acheive a very good effect without using the filter. There are some specific uses for a ND filter (shooting at a slower shutter speed), but creating a darker richer video is probably not one of them.
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I've said this in a handful of threads now, but I'm still surprised by the number of P3 owners who haven't researched at least the very basics of photography. You bought a flying tripod, understanding the fundamental concepts of the exposure triangle will only make using it that much more enjoyable!
An ND filter won't give you "more rich" colors or saturation. It's ONLY use is to slow down the shutter speed to introduce motion blur when desired. This is useful in photography when you want to capture natural movement (for example, photographing a waterfall where you want the smooth flow of the water instead of individual water drops). It's mostly for video so that you can slowly your shutter speed down from the very high speed usually needed on bright days. Shutter speeds over about 1/120s on video gives your footage a surreal, stop-motiony quality that people usually find unappealing.
An ND filter won't give you "more rich" colors or saturation. It's ONLY use is to slow down the shutter speed to introduce motion blur when desired. This is useful in photography when you want to capture natural movement (for example, photographing a waterfall where you want the smooth flow of the water instead of individual water drops). It's mostly for video so that you can slowly your shutter speed down from the very high speed usually needed on bright days. Shutter speeds over about 1/120s on video gives your footage a surreal, stop-motiony quality that people usually find unappealing.
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Yes, I am bit tired of the herd mentality when it comes the filters. It seems like if someone said wearing a tinfoil hat while flying will double your distance, many would do it without exploring why. Maybe it's just the gadget mentality of being able to buy more stuff for your Phantom.
You bought a very incredible piece of flying technology. You also bought a very nice capable camera. Learn how to use it. Understand some basics of composition (hint: not everything has to be in the center of the frame all of the time). Otherwise you are just flying a very expensive point and shoot.
Have you ever watched the BBC series "Planet Earth"? They have some incredible aerial shots that were very difficult to get using helicopters and ultralights. You can do a lot of what they did yourself for $1000 today. Study the footage for composition, movement, color, patterns, etc.
And for those of you who just need to buy another thing for your Phantom, I will be offering tin foil Range Extending Hats in fedora, baseball cap and Cowboy styles for our Texas friends....
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If you are worried about fingerprints:
LENSPEN - The Superior Camera Lens Cleaning System
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LENSPEN - The Superior Camera Lens Cleaning System
Highly effective.
Filters, filters......
I really do not undrstand why it would be needed an ND filter unless you want to be tricking exposure time.... This will absulutely have no efect for a landscape in balancing the very bright sky with the some dark ground since you will be darkening the whole frame in the same grade.
But an Graded ND (or evem brown graded ND, red graded ND, for sunsets...) this will do a lot ot sense, because in darkening 2, 4 or 8 f stops in the brigter (sky) area this will balance the light and you will get a very pro lanscape.
It is needed to understand thar any camera without special setup/adjustments will probably mesure the light and setup his axposute (F stop / Speed) to take a picture based on the medium scenery light.
Thus a brigt sky will be probably recorded over-exposed and ground will probably recorded under-exposed.....
That is why an GRADED Filter will do a big the difference.
Yes... there are several ways in post processing tools.... but .....
I tryed some time agou adapt agraded brown filter to PV1+, but no success till now, since the setup i build was just as it is used o traditional fotography... it is a sliding (up / down) rectangle....
And in this way ... was not possible to use it... because it hitted everywere... in the gimball.
But one filter that worked fine for me, was an CPL.
Bought from Ebay an 25mm circular Polariser, breaked it down from metal parts and glued it to a 41 mm Thermo tube.
Weigtin aonly 2.7 grams.... it does a beauty difference.
Best regards . Juan
I really do not undrstand why it would be needed an ND filter unless you want to be tricking exposure time.... This will absulutely have no efect for a landscape in balancing the very bright sky with the some dark ground since you will be darkening the whole frame in the same grade.
But an Graded ND (or evem brown graded ND, red graded ND, for sunsets...) this will do a lot ot sense, because in darkening 2, 4 or 8 f stops in the brigter (sky) area this will balance the light and you will get a very pro lanscape.
It is needed to understand thar any camera without special setup/adjustments will probably mesure the light and setup his axposute (F stop / Speed) to take a picture based on the medium scenery light.
Thus a brigt sky will be probably recorded over-exposed and ground will probably recorded under-exposed.....
That is why an GRADED Filter will do a big the difference.
Yes... there are several ways in post processing tools.... but .....
I tryed some time agou adapt agraded brown filter to PV1+, but no success till now, since the setup i build was just as it is used o traditional fotography... it is a sliding (up / down) rectangle....
And in this way ... was not possible to use it... because it hitted everywere... in the gimball.
But one filter that worked fine for me, was an CPL.
Bought from Ebay an 25mm circular Polariser, breaked it down from metal parts and glued it to a 41 mm Thermo tube.
Weigtin aonly 2.7 grams.... it does a beauty difference.
Best regards . Juan
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ND slows the shutter speed and as a result adds motion blur. This provides a MUCH more pleasing image and can help remove pan jitter (tho that should be controlled via yaw rate).
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